Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (1 Viewer)

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I know there are many different routes to actually unbolting the starter. I will share mine with you. Not saying my ideas are better, or worse than others, but it worked for me...

Let me back up and say that I thought I had a small coolant leak towards the back of the engine. Our gifted and talented @2001LC clued me in that I was probably had leaking at the rear coolant bypass. This pipe exchanges coolant between the heads. Since my heater Ts did not seem to be leaking, I thought he was probably correct and decided to replace the gaskets while I had the manifold off. This had the benefit of giving me more access to the starter bolts.
 
Take a look at these pictures of the Valley of Darkness. I think I was leaking coolant for a while, and then it would run out the back of the block and make small spots on the garage floor. It was a very small leak. I did not have to top off coolant very often, but it bugged me...

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With the intake off, and the rear coolant bypass removed, it seemed like a great time to replace the heater Ts. It turned out mine were in great shape! They had been replaced in Jan of '15, about 83k miles ago.

I use a dental pick and some Sil-Glyde to loosen hoses that I want to keep:
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With the rear coolant bypass removed, there was plenty of room back there to access the starter bolts.

The driver side 14 is blind. You are reaching, but I just used my old Craftsman 3/8" ratchet w/ a short, 12 pt 14mm on there. Once I was sure I was "on", I used my 22mm combo wrench that I used on the fuel rail as a cheater bar and cracked that mother loose!

From there I knew I could do this!

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Make sure the small bolt holding wire harness housing on drive side, is out. Then push wire house back ~ 1" to get out of the way. Then life out intake manifold (IM). IM is tight and heavy, so workout gently. If IM get hung up on engine hoist hooks, bend the hooks outward a little.

Super important:
But
before removing IM. Put nuts and bolts back in on each side and tighteen. Then blow off dirt from both sides of IM.
I wash with power washer, than blowing with air while wet engine running. Than blow off again once dry, and again before removing nuts and bolts. You can't be to clean here.

I make sure when assembling. To vacuum out each head intake port, of every grain of sand. I get up on engine with flashlight, and shop vac. I get every speck, I can out of intake ports.

Removal of intake manifold is the number one cause of bad compression. WHY! dust/sand getting into intake ports, due to lack of cleaning before removal and before assembly. This then enter combustion chambers and damage rings and cylinder walls.
This is golden advice! Clean as much as you can before removing the intake!!!
 
Wow thanks for sharing the tip on taking that bypass pipe out, makes the starter bolt look easy to access!
 
Time for a new (reman) starter. I’ve read the 21 pages of this thread and some others. incredibly helpful details in here as I prep.

I don’t see much of any commentary about the two different starter part numbers for older cruisers.

Anyone know the difference between 28100-50070 and 28100-50100?

Parts diagram online seems to suggest 98-03/2000 is the first and 03/2000-2003ish is the latter part number.

Problem is I’ve got an 03/2000 build date on my LX. Searching by VIN online provides no additional clarity on multiple websites. Appreciate any input before I tear my manifold off.
 
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It was m y time to tackle this job.
Instead of going camping this long weekend, I was cramped up on the engine to take out the starter.
The post from the OP was very helpfull, thank you.
Unfortunately I broke off the springclip of the starter plug.

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I tested the starter, it pushed out a little but didn't spin at all.
Opened it up and noticed moisture and some rust on the contacts side and dirt on the gears.
After cleaning still no go, so a new one needs to go in.
A new genuine Toyota will cost me 612 AUD, ouch.
 
Time for a new (reman) starter. I’ve the 21 pages of this thread and some others. incredibly helpful details in here as I prep.

I don’t see much of any commentary about the two different starter part numbers for older cruisers.

Anyone know the difference between 28100-50070 and 28100-50100?

Parts diagram online seems to suggest 98-03/2000 is the first and 03/2000-2003ish is the latter part number.

Problem is I’ve got an 03/2000 build date on my LX. Searching by VIN online provides no additional clarity on multiple websites. Appreciate any input before I tear my manifold off.
Follow-up to this. My 03/2000 build date LX had the older part number once I got in there...28100-50070
 
My initiation in the starter club come at 190k miles on my 99 LC. This thread was extremely helpful. Some things I gathered: support the hood for easier access, use an engine creeper if you/friend have one, clean extensively (spent easily an hour cleaning) and cover intake ports, replace intake gasket- cheap insurance, loosen the wire harness on the transmission bell housing for access to the starter blind capscrew (pictured with socket setup I used for access- easily the most frustrating part of this job), and replace with a high-quality reman so this doesn't become a frequent repair. Thanks to everyone who contributed to the thread- you made this much easier, especially given the lack of technical manual instructions.

My first symptoms were intermittent starting. Always started on the second or third try. Glad that it gave me such a clear warning before getting stranded in the woods!

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Back doing what we love with the LC. Guinness (Gordon Setter-mix) needs his daily run, can't have the LC sitting around the shop!

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Hey All! I just want to say thank you for the post. I went through the whole 21 pages. So much good information in here. I will be doing a knock sensor, Starter job next week on my 2007 LX470. I have a P0332 code. I was looking at making a list of things to buy for this job. Holy Cow! There are so many parts recommended to change while in there but it seems reasonable. I have my trusty 98 ES300 to drive me around while the 100 stays in the garage for maintenance. Can someone verify this, please? This was mostly gathered from watching YotaMD, @2001LC. The local reputable shop wants $2150 for Starter and Knock Sensors job. I did a Timing Belt, WP job last Summer but this job seems even more daunting.

S#PartPart#qtyUnit Costcost
1Starter Motor (Toyota Reman)28100-50101-841$ 131.89$ 191.89
2Check Valve / Pipe Gasket17377-500104$ 0.97$ 4.85
3HOSE ASSEMBLY, VACUUM SWITCHING VALVE17340-500301$ 8.63$ 8.63
4FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR GASKETS - Upper
Purge Damper Upper
23232-410811$ 1.97$ 1.97
5FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR GASKETS - Lower
Purge Damper bottom
90430-120268$ 1.47$ 11.76
6Knock Sensor Connector (Housing Connector F)90980-118752$ 8.17$ 16.34
7WATER BY-PASS JOINT, REAR - Gasket16341-500202$ 8.20$ 16.40
8Metal Coolant Pipe O-Ring96761-240191$ 3.31$ 3.31
9Intake Manifold Gaskets17171-500302$ 11.64$ 23.28
10Fuel Injector Seal - Injector Insulators (bottom)23291-410108$ 3.20$ 25.60
11Fuel Injector O-Ring (top) - 23250B90301-070378$ 2.90$ 23.20
12Clip Fuel Tube Conn90923-070021$ 2.39$ 4.78
13Hose, No. 2(For Air Injection System)17342-501801$ 25.92$ 25.92
14Hose, No. 1(For Air Injection System)17341-501801$ 13.88$ 13.88
15Housing, Connector Female90980-114001$ 6.54$ 6.54
16NTK knock Sensors ID0215 (Rock Auto)89615-060102$ 77.99$ 155.98
Toyota ShippingN/A$ 31.30
Rock Auto ShippingN/A$ 12.00
TOTAL (WITH CORE RETURN)$ 517.63


 
Is there any replacement for the cover circled in red? I have a Toyota starter on the bench and I broke that off by accident.

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Is there any replacement for the cover circled in red? I have a Toyota starter on the bench and I broke that off by accident.

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Try Alternator and Starter Parts Wholesale, I used them for my 80; they are great. The link is for all the 1999 100 series LandCruiser rebuilds they stock. You'll have to pick the one you want. You can buy either individual parts, full rebuild kits or completely rebuilt units. I bought the full rebuild kit. Don't hesitate to call them if you have questions. They are very helpful.
 
So here's one for the starter gods...

All the bolts were out and I couldn't get the starter out. I went to town on it with a mallet. Genius idea to be sure.:doh:

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to remedy this situation? My thought was to start with a heat gun and MAYBE escalate to a blow torch. With all those liquids and having had a small amount of gas leak while removing the intake, I'm very hesitant.

*edit* just sprayed some PB...

Thanks...

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