Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (1 Viewer)

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I should have been clearer. I got two sets of gaskets (each set has two gaskets - one for each side) in case I pinched one or otherwise damaged it trying to lower the manifold into place. Turns out that was an unfounded worry, as the installation went smoothly.
You were clear!

I was just showing there is not much worry with damaging during install, and that two gasket need to be order as Toyota doesn't sell as a set. Also we've difference in year as to what is all needed.
 
My cruiser has just began the symptoms. I ordered a Denso reman starter from Amazon for $153. I will do it soon.
 
You were clear!

I was just showing there is not much worry with damaging during install, and that two gasket need to be order as Toyota doesn't sell as a set. Also we've difference in year as to what is all needed.

2001LC, your pictures and guidance are very thorough! Thank you.
I recently did this starter replacement and new toyota oem lower intake gaskets on a 1999 lc.
I am curious if the gaskets “have” to be installed with the white painted tabs facing up? I installed mine upside down as the gaskets looked the same on both sides and I just kept going. I was doing this work in a 20 degree garage with only a head lamp, not optimal. Everything went smoothly as i did this alone. However i have a p300 and p301/302 code at cold start up. Once warm the cel will go off after a few restarts. I replaced all my vacuum lines. But still chasing this p300 ghost. Would my gaskets being upside down perhaps create a sealing issue? Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I do realize other factors contribute to p300 etc, but wanted to get opinion on gasket orientation to determine if i need to r and the r the lower intake gaskets . Cheers
 
No fun wrenching in the cold.

Sorry I don't have a gasket in front of me to look at see what difference it may make. But they are designed to go on one way. Very strong possibility they're leaking. Search and you'll find guys doing a vacuum leak detection test. IIRC they use propane touch (no flame) to direct LP gas around area that may have a vacuum leak. Vacuum leak will draw in LP gas and change RPM.
 
Hi everyone this is Chris, the originator of this thread. I no longer own my 99 LC, but I now own 2 Lexus GX470’s (2004 and 2008). I just bought the 2004 for my son who will soon be turning 16. Lol I still remember typing this DIY very late at night because my wife and I were sleeping in shifts with the newborn, and I had nothing better to do.

I do have a question for you guys. How much more difficult is this job on the GX470? I hear about a water crossover tube, something my LC didn’t have. It also appears as though I would need to replace the entire starter, not just the contacts.

I’m not needing to do this job now, but I imagine I will be at some point.

Thanks in advance!

Chris

Springfield, MO
 
It's about the same, just no contacts & plunger available. With the VVT engine the intake manifold is lighter, that's nice! But you do need to move the A.I stuff. Easiest to just cut hose and replace it to remove the A.I stuff. You'll also want to pull water by-pass pipe. So need new O-ring. Few other gasket depending on method you use.
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Wow thank you for those tips! The cutting of the hose sound like a good trick.

Are these 2 water pipes what I would need to disconnect at the back?
 
Make sure to check all PN # with your VIN #. Some of these I show are form different years. There may be changes.

No, those are air tubes from exhaust connecting to Air Switch Valve Assembly, and some of the other gasket you may need. It makes easier to remove assembly. FSM has us remove the Air Switch Valve Assembly that the air tube connect to. It's one of those things you can work around FSM procedure. But sometimes short cuts take longer in the end. IIRC I remove LH pipe on one job to get some extra room. In the picture above, I was replacing wire harness to starter. So that LH Air Pipe had to come off.
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This shows easy path to 10mm bolts of Air Pipe.
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You may even be able to pull starter without removing Air pump Assembly. But again sometimes short cut take longer in the end.
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See FSM above for names of parts. Water By-pass Pipe has 1 O-ring you'll need. That water pipe is in the way of larger "Hose, Air PN # 17342-50180" see above. Old air hose will be hard as a rock. So just cut, then replace during install. Remove the Air pump Assembly as one
unit (two bolts and two nuts on studs).
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One other thing I change often and find broken from past starter jobs. Is the wire housing on starter. The release clip is brittle and breaks often. You can just use a tie for safety, I prefer replace housing.
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This is Housing Connector PN # on a 2000 LX. PN # may be different on your year. Always check PN # by VIN #.

Starter & knock sensor wire housing connectors (1).JPG


I always replace intake gasket and make sure white tabs are up and point out.. Non VVT.
Starter & knock sensor wire housing connectors (2).JPG


Old VVT intake gasket often leak.
Intake #3 - # 6.jpg
Replace them every time intake off.
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Thank you for the detailed info!
 
Getting ready to tackle this.....here is my list....do I need anything else? I found someone that will do everything for $350....worth it or should I do it myself? I haven’t done anything like this before....and I am impatient. ;)

Fel-Pro VS50592R Valve Cover Gasket Set Amazon.com: Fel-Pro VS50592R Valve Cover Gasket Set: Automotive

Beck Arnley 037-6183 Intake Manifold Gasket Set Amazon.com: Beck Arnley 037-6183 Intake Manifold Gasket Set: Automotive

Denso 280-0233 Remanufactured Starter Amazon.com: Denso 280-0233 Remanufactured Starter: Automotive

(2) 6 New DENSO Iridium Spark Plugs IK20 # 5304 Amazon.com: 6 New DENSO Iridium Spark Plugs IK20 # 5304: Automotive
 
I'm replacing my starter this weekend. I went with a denso reman, and the intake gaskets. The most extensive job I have done were the spark plugs so far, and I'm new to wrenching.

How critical is it to torque everything to spec on this job? Does anyone know the torque specs for the starter bolts, intake manifold bolts, and throttle body? Maybe I'm overthinking it...
 
It's important. Torque insures you've uniform pressure on gaskets and parts, and that they're not over tightened.
As engine heats parts expand. Torques take this into consideration as well.
Starter to block 29ft-lbf
Starter wire protector bolt 84in-lbf (Inch)
Starter wire nut 84in-lbf (Inch)
Intake to head 13ft-lbf
Throttle body 13ft-lbf
Small 10mm bolt into aluminium 53in-lbf
 
It's important. Torque insures you've uniform pressure on gaskets and parts, and that they're not over tightened.
As engine heats parts expand. Torques take this into consideration as well.
Starter to block 29ft-lbf
Starter wire protector bolt 84in-lbf (Inch)
Starter wire nut 84in-lbf (Inch)
Intake to head 13ft-lbf
Throttle body 13ft-lbf
Small 10mm bolt into aluminium 53in-lbf
Many thanks! Really appreciate your reply!
 
Should I depressurize the fuel system for this job?
 
I've read the whole thread and have only seen contact part numbers listed once and they were for a 1999 100 series and were as follows
contacts 28226-54412 and 28226-72010. plunger 28235-54380
I have a 2000 100 series 7/00 manufacture date with a 28100-50100 starter and had read that the part numbers are different after 3/00
can someone provide the part numbers for contacts on my starter? it would be greatly appreciated

Edit, thanks to Qtonic
Starter Contacts
1998-3/2000-----------------------------------------28226-54412 & 28226-72010
3/2000-8/2002---------------------------------------28226-50070 & 28226-50080
Starter Plunger
1998-8/2002-----------------------------------------28235-54380
 
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Should I depressurize the fuel system for this job?
I didn't depressurize, just disconnected at the fuel filter with a wad of paper towels around it, not much pressure was released
 
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