Hello everyone, first time poster here. I recently purchased a 1977 FJ40 that only has a soft top. I want to put a hard top on it and have found one that appears to be in pretty good shape with very little rust. The person I have interacted with is asking $4,000 picked up. It includes the top, the 2 front doors and 2 ambulance doors in the rear. All appear to have their glass. Is the asking price reasonable? Am I safe to assume that this should fit my FJ40? Any advice or guidance that you could provide, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Pricing For 1977 FJ40 Hard Top And Doors
- Thread starter cmcfarland1971
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I's say yes. Brand new parts would cost you over $6000 with no glass or hardware. I have a '77 and the side windows look just like the one above, with the small operable windows in the rear so you should be good for fitment.
From the 2 pics you posted, that looks like a gem of a top and excellent doors! I would want to see pics of the underside of each door, and the sill under the hardtop to check the integrity. Those are the first rust problem areas.
When you consider that the fiberglass top and rain gutters look to be in great condition, that's a huge plus! If the doors come complete with glass and all hardware, that's also a major plus. Many doors for sale only include the shells.
As to the year compatibility, the front door windows have the front wings, which I don't think a 77 has. My 76 doesn't have them, but I wish they did! The inside panels of the doors will tell more about the year. Also check that they are steel vs. fiberglass.
With white doors and a dune beige top, they are most likely from different trucks.
Get more pics and look closely. But IMO, all that this setup includes will save big bucks from glass to seals to hardware that you would have to source elsewhere. If you don't have to replace the rain gutter, that also saves some major cost and headache.
Bonus points if the top has a good headliner!
If it checks out, I would go for it and consider myself lucky!
When you consider that the fiberglass top and rain gutters look to be in great condition, that's a huge plus! If the doors come complete with glass and all hardware, that's also a major plus. Many doors for sale only include the shells.
As to the year compatibility, the front door windows have the front wings, which I don't think a 77 has. My 76 doesn't have them, but I wish they did! The inside panels of the doors will tell more about the year. Also check that they are steel vs. fiberglass.
With white doors and a dune beige top, they are most likely from different trucks.
Get more pics and look closely. But IMO, all that this setup includes will save big bucks from glass to seals to hardware that you would have to source elsewhere. If you don't have to replace the rain gutter, that also saves some major cost and headache.
Bonus points if the top has a good headliner!
If it checks out, I would go for it and consider myself lucky!
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Never thought I would live long enough to see a top and doors go for some much. The vent windows on the front doors were never stock in the US market. Either they were added or doors were imported later. Either this top has been stored away for years or it's been repainted. Unless you can do a personal inspect would be leary about buyingit. Would also feel the same about having a assembled hard top shipped it was attached to a tub. Would have to have it braces and crates to ship. On the top a US market top will have this bracket spot welded to reach side.
These were on the 1/76-2/78 hard tops. After that they moved to the roll bar.
These were on the 1/76-2/78 hard tops. After that they moved to the roll bar.
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Here are a couple more pictures of the set, as well as a picture of the FJ40 I just purchased. Right now, it is just a soft top with roll bar and a bikini top as well. Looking to ultimately have this be a hard top and if I take it off, going strictly with the bikini top.
Nice truck! I don't see any red flags from those pics. Surely you'll be painting everything to match your truck, so you can clean up any minor surface rust during that process. I see generic weatherstripping on the doors, which you'll need to replace with high quality seals made for the doors from someone like CityRacer. His stuff worked really well for me. He also sells the hardtop to body seals you'll need. The headliner has dropped, so you need to replace that (with the top off and upside down).
I'm not a fan of door speakers, but you can cover the holes with new door cards. Or if you like them, keep them.
One thing to check is your roll cage height. It's not OEM, but I can't imagine it was built taller than the original. Just want to be sure it fits under the top.
Certainly not worth $4K to me in that condition. For $4K, I want rust free everything, with new factory weatherstrip, headliner, etc. Those doors have rust in them, and I guarantee the hardtop does also. If that is worth $4K to you, that is all that matters.
rex in bama
SILVER Star
Agree with all of this and also replacing with City Racer rubber. Did that last year with good results. 4K sounds on the surface like a lot, but you are getting quite a bit and seemingly in pretty solid shape. If you were to piece meal source all of that, you’d have to be well be well north of that price, no?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Looks like there may be an issue with the upper ambulance door hinge.
Looks like longer bolts and nuts were used. To show how crazy prices are today I paid $2,500 for this 76 FJ40 in 2007. It was listed in the local club section in 2006. It wasn't some I happen to know, it was listed here on Mud for that long.
If you been around the LCs for many years can see why prices seem so crazy.
Looks like longer bolts and nuts were used. To show how crazy prices are today I paid $2,500 for this 76 FJ40 in 2007. It was listed in the local club section in 2006. It wasn't some I happen to know, it was listed here on Mud for that long.
If you been around the LCs for many years can see why prices seem so crazy.
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pb4ugo
SILVER Star
It seems too expensive to me. What's the origin of this top?
fjwagon
SILVER Star
Wow, I remember paying 500 back in the day. I have seen them in the 1500 range on Craigslist. I would be more concerned if they have bondo check before you purchased it. Like the say goes, it worth what you willing to pay.
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jim land
SILVER Star
I like those bug catcher windows, only available in south America or oversea, look like some bondo on the lower lip of the ambi door , maybe it hide more rust 
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Back in the 80's folks would flag me down and ask if I wanted the top in their back yard. Just come and get it.
Well, my .02 is: 1. You get it all in one package, just be sure it fits (do your home work!) 2. you got to pick it up so you will see it in person before you write the check, and 3. I don't see anyone else showering you with more options. Piece by piece it will cost you more, unseen plus the cost of shipping, which ain't cheap. By the looks of your rig I'm sure you expect to spend a few $ on paint and seals. This game isn't cheap, anymore. Go with your gut, no one is happy over "woulda, shoulda, coulda, but...."
If that top and doors are as clean as they appear, I'd buy it immediately at that price. In 6 months, it won't matter if it cost $3500 or $4500 when it's no longer available. Full hardtop setups just don't come on the market much.
^^^^^^ This
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Thought doors and tops were available aftermarket? Once parts become available that generally lowers used prices. If a person has nothing at all the remaining pieces will be costly. But someone with damaged or rusty top and doors may not need much else. Doesn't help if you don't have a hardtop setup to start with but does change the supply and demand that determines the value. New will come in pieces cheaper to ship. $4000 used top would prefer to see it in pieces. Header over the back door and bolts going into the cap go a long way to show the condition of. Bolts into the cap are known to snap off in the fix nuts. Back header screws and bolts break and header rusts in the corners. OP hasn't disclosed where the top is, which I don't blame him. But where top has been it's life and whether outdoor or garage makes a difference.
Thought doors and tops were available aftermarket? Once parts become available that generally lowers used prices.
So far, aftermarket doors (and in my personal experience with Columbian quarter panels) aren't even close to fitting correctly. Read all the body part threads about Chinese tubs and doors, and the miserable central American junk.
From the photos, the bottom of the front doors appear nearly rust free and the side panel of the top looks very good. People are legitimately paying ~$1000/door for clean late model doors and almost that much for very clean ambulance doors. $500 pair of doors gets you rusty junk these days.
I fully agree that all these parts need close inspection before laying down the money, but as I said, how many complete sets of hardtops and doors do you see for sale anywhere that are clean and ready to go? Maybe I'm jaded by seeing all the overpriced junk for sale in Colorado. I'll shut up now.
So far, aftermarket doors (and in my personal experience with Columbian quarter panels) aren't even close to fitting correctly. Read all the body part threads about Chinese tubs and doors, and the miserable central American junk.
From the photos, the bottom of the front doors appear nearly rust free and the side panel of the top looks very good. People are legitimately paying ~$1000/door for clean late model doors and almost that much for very clean ambulance doors. $500 pair of doors gets you rusty junk these days.
I fully agree that all these parts need close inspection before laying down the money, but as I said, how many complete sets of hardtops and doors do you see for sale anywhere that are clean and ready to go? Maybe I'm jaded by seeing all the overpriced junk for sale in Colorado. I'll shut up now.
IMHO, jump on it. If you don’t please forward me the contact. I’ll take it. Don’t make the mistake of letting the dollar chance the dime.
I’d highly recommend the bug catcher vent windows in the doors with kick out rear windows. I’ve got ‘74 doors and an ‘81 hardtop. The combination is great for ventilation.
