Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

[riley76865]

Did a good job painting the lawn too

@TRFCSUX could use some bigger cardboard

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I finally have a Double Din Toyota in the family fleet that I can have my way with .

My Full Size single DIN Non-USA far-away new old stock OEM Fujitsu TEN EU Spec. 3-band / 3-channel Radio is something i have had for a while and GHOST was the right place to plug-n-see what would happen after I did just that ..?

There is like nothing online about each of the 3 unique bandwidths or what I would term a “ frequency interchange chart “ …

The other little detail I have waited around 2ish decades to install is a OEM Trap-Door full size single DIN storage box ….

These were all the rage in the late 80’s and early 90’s , but as toyota shifted to all FULL Size Single DiN’s because somebody somewhere decided to invent the Compact Disc in the correct & conveniently be just the right size spec. for a full size single DIN passenger vehicle …

The sun was setting on the 2nd generation of a Cassette filled with kilometers of magnetic tape and DIN Toyota radios filled with piles of moving parts that liked to eat that stuff for lunch …

The first generation of OEM Toyota DIN radios were all Double Din because the technology of spinning a compact disc while a Laser to scan the microscopic spiral track , that converted the digital data into a analogue signal that the vehicles low voltage speakers could then reproduce as sound …

I like the simplicity of last generation Fujitsu TEN analogue tuner dials both being on the same side , if there both on the right side = RHD Toyota application and vice versa ..

I did update / upgrade the interior Illumination with LED , as well as adding a 2nd bulb socket pigtail so that the lumens are balanced evenly , Toyota OEM analogue style radios typically only have 1 bulb and it’s off to the side and HiJacks the clear polycarbonate tuner scale media by directing the incandescent light at the end-grain like a projector does …

I have a pet-peeve with white OEM tuner needles , so they get the JDM Pure yellow speedometer needle paint pen treatment….


..

Yes , it does receive some but not all AM & FM stations in 2 of the 3 band width ranges .
The 3rd one with no reception is now slated to be the dedicated SIRUS XM Channel input via a inline OEM antenna T splitter tap

..

 

[Pulgasari]

Went to Toyotas and Coffee on Sunday, and on the way back, I noticed some steam/smoke coming out from the underside of the truck. This was at a red light a block from home, so I just pulled in to my parking space, where the steam continued. There was a trail of fluid from the street to the parking spot, not a great sign.

Underneath, there seemed to be some kind of residue all over the undercarriage, which wasn’t too surprising, since I had the underside coated with a Woolwax based product almost two months ago. I did powerwash the exterior of the vehicle on Sunday as well, I’m sure I got some water into the frame while washing the rock sliders etc but I didn’t really go underneath.

I did have a leaky transfer case for a while, so there was definitely some transfer case fluid all over, but I haven’t noticed any smoke or puddles before. Transfer case seals, diff seals, and the rear main seal were all replaced around a year ago.

I then swabbed the oily residue on the ground and took a few more samples on the axles and various parts of the frame, and they all matched. Interestingly it seemed like this residue also matched what I swabbed from the AHC globes, which are on the outer side of the frame (and thus would be less likely to end up covered in engine or transfer case oil, I’d imagine).

I guess the only thing to do is to check the engine and transfer case oil levels before driving the truck again? I would hope that the undercoating isn’t washing off in under two months…

Video underneath in case anyone is curious.

 

[TRDdrew]

the trail of fluid is your first clue, you definitely have a leak somewhere i would assume

 

[OTRAMM]

In the video it sure looks like rear pinion seal. That's a pretty big leak. Usually they sling oil everywhere. Can't say I've seen one drip steadily like that before. Wondering if your breather on the rear axle is clogged and letting it build pressure as everything heats up.

 

[Pulgasari]

In the video it sure looks like rear pinion seal. That's a pretty big leak. Usually they sling oil everywhere. Can't say I've seen one drip steadily like that before. Wondering if your breather on the rear axle is clogged and letting it build pressure as everything heats up.

That would make sense, I looked at my records and it turns out that I actually didn't replace the rear pinion seal. The stuff is all over the underside.

Guess it's time start the hunt for a 98-99 LC diff with locker... don't want to dump money into the LSD knowing I'm gonna replace it at some point.

 

[CrabCake]

 

[afgman786]

Didn't realize the 80 was a show rig and not a wheelin rig...

 

[OTRAMM]

That would make sense, I looked at my records and it turns out that I actually didn't replace the rear pinion seal. The stuff is all over the underside.

Guess it's time start the hunt for a 98-99 LC diff with locker... don't want to dump money into the LSD knowing I'm gonna replace it at some point.

I'm not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure you'll need the whole rear axle. If it's like the 80 Series E-locker the shape of the flange where the diff bolts in is different. (There's a notch for the locker fork)

 

[CrabCake]

Didn't realize the 80 was a show rig and not a wheelin rig...

I wouldn't say that...just kept clean when not on the trails! Knock on wood, I have't had to pull line yet, including on trails where several 100's & 200's needed recovery help to get through...and 2x got @kevin in okinawa back to camp with the drag line...

Really happy with the performance at this point...it'll never be a rocket without boost or heart transplant with the 35's, but I could actually accelerate from 65 on the highway on an incline grade without a gear kick down, which is a huge win for me! At idle when up to traffic lights, I had to look at the tach to be sure it was still running since it was so smooth & quiet....just singing away like a sewing machine with tractor heritage.

Work done included: new injectors, new pigtails plus other harness plugs, new platinum spark plugs, new gaskets, new studs/nuts everywhere, keychains, FPR, fuel filter, intake boot...and a little wrenching love! Recently done: PAIR delete, rear heat delete, 150A alternator upgrade, Koso temp gauge, all coolant hoses & belts, compression check with all between 185-200. Within the last year: 10% under drive gear, part time spool, Tom Woods rear drive shaft, front axle refresh. Since my ownership: I don't want to think about all of the work that I've done...full suspension, 30 spline front axles, tires, sound system, winch, etc.....

Now it's time for some of the fun stuff now that the major maintenance is up to date! Thinking about building a drawer system, @Cruisers and Co turbo for OBD1, and possibly a 3 link front end...

My wife saw me with a big grin last night while dusting off the 80 after my test drive and commented that she doesn't want to know how much I've spent on it...but she knows how much I enjoy having it!

 

[Svensk120]

@CrabCake your wife is a great one for sure!!!
She works you hard but lets you play!

 

[1MOA]

Went to Toyotas and Coffee on Sunday, and on the way back, I noticed some steam/smoke coming out from the underside of the truck. This was at a red light a block from home, so I just pulled in to my parking space, where the steam continued. There was a trail of fluid from the street to the parking spot, not a great sign.

View attachment 3874735

Underneath, there seemed to be some kind of residue all over the undercarriage, which wasn’t too surprising, since I had the underside coated with a Woolwax based product almost two months ago. I did powerwash the exterior of the vehicle on Sunday as well, I’m sure I got some water into the frame while washing the rock sliders etc but I didn’t really go underneath.

View attachment 3874741

I did have a leaky transfer case for a while, so there was definitely some transfer case fluid all over, but I haven’t noticed any smoke or puddles before. Transfer case seals, diff seals, and the rear main seal were all replaced around a year ago.

View attachment 3874746

I then swabbed the oily residue on the ground and took a few more samples on the axles and various parts of the frame, and they all matched. Interestingly it seemed like this residue also matched what I swabbed from the AHC globes, which are on the outer side of the frame (and thus would be less likely to end up covered in engine or transfer case oil, I’d imagine).

I guess the only thing to do is to check the engine and transfer case oil levels before driving the truck again? I would hope that the undercoating isn’t washing off in under two months…

Video underneath in case anyone is curious.

check the easy thing first. if you just got it undercoated make sure they didn't clog up the breather s and the heat is forcing the oil out a already bad seal. The video says no longer available but it is a simple thing if it is.

 

[imperium]

Just put in the order for the TCC/LRA high clearance bullbar. Very excited to get it installed.

Not so excited for the upcoming credit card statement.

 

[CrabCake]

Ordered my 4x4 Labs rear bumper do-it-yourself kit. I spoke to Luke at Labs and he has some special cut pieces to account for my LRA tank and has the kits in stock to ship this week. Helping my son @An3 mock up and weld some sliders for his Explorer this weekend for some wire burning practice!

 

[Svensk120]

my buddy and I sourced my swing arm parts from 4x4 labs and I was happy with them. shipped quickly and everything was in great quality

 

[Von Hayek]

Ordered my 4x4 Labs rear bumper do-it-yourself kit. I spoke to Luke at Labs and he has some special cut pieces to account for my LRA tank and has the kits in stock to ship this week. Helping my son @An3 mock up and weld some sliders for his Explorer this weekend for some wire burning practice!

I have their kit bumper on the rear of the 100. Lots of help getting it together, but I like it very much. Clean design and functional.

 

[Jakes40]

Ordered my 4x4 Labs rear bumper do-it-yourself kit. I spoke to Luke at Labs and he has some special cut pieces to account for my LRA tank and has the kits in stock to ship this week. Helping my son @An3 mock up and weld some sliders for his Explorer this weekend for some wire burning practice!

You can’t go wrong with 4x4 Labs. I’ve had 2 sets of there NLA high steer arms. And Luke has been awesome to deal with. There DIY bumper can be daunting to put together but it’s was fun doing @Von Hayek

 

[Von Hayek]

I posted this over in the 40 section, trying to get some help installing the lock washer on the crank nut, but no one is responding yet. I thought I would tap club knowledge...

---------------------------------------------

It seems like this should be obvious, but I suppose I am that age when the brain starts to shrink. What is the proper way to install this?

The rivets on the pulley interfere with the exterior tabs so that the washer won't line up with the hole. Do 2 tabs need to be bent up before install?

Is the interior tab of the washer supposed to be bent into the key channel of the pulley?

 

[76FJ40]

The 2F manual isn't very clear, but it says to lock the nut with the lock plate. I'm quessing it works like the star washer on the front hubs.

 

[Von Hayek]

The 2F manual isn't very clear, but it says to lock the nut with the lock plate. I'm quessing it works like the star washer on the front hubs.

I agree. But, you cannot but the washer on the crank nut without bending the interior tab. I'm assuming it is meant to bent not the key slot inside the crank pulley.