Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (19 Viewers)

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true. i also own an old BMW, and there are SOOOOO many parts no longer available i wish i'd bought and stashed away. oil pumps, timing chain parts, dashboards, etc. but my garage is already overflowing and storing entire spare parts catalog for every vehicle i own is not in the cards :)

hopefully a chinese windshield isn't any worse than the cracked, chipped, and sandblasted aftermarket one currently installed.
Same with my 03 Audi RS6...missed out on the last new radiator in the world for $1200.00...3 months later, mine started to weep....and I did too! 😭. That was the beginning of the end for my ownership...fortunately off-loaded it for a decent price to get me into my 80....or got lucky at least as I had already bought the 80 before I listed up the Audi!
 
Navigation, backup camera, and oil pressure gauge all crapped out on me within a day. Nav and backup camera are likely related, but the oil pressure gauge is strange. I replaced the pressure sensor with an OEM one in July because I was getting a consistently low reading despite cold/warm oil and that did the trick.

I did notice that on a cold start, the pressure gauge would actively fluctuate by about 1/8th, just go up and down until the oil warmed up. Didn't seem too unusual. Now that the gauge isn't moving at all I'm thinking something finally broke, but I can't imagine what.

Any ideas on where to start?
 
Navigation, backup camera, and oil pressure gauge all crapped out on me within a day. Nav and backup camera are likely related, but the oil pressure gauge is strange. I replaced the pressure sensor with an OEM one in July because I was getting a consistently low reading despite cold/warm oil and that did the trick.

I did notice that on a cold start, the pressure gauge would actively fluctuate by about 1/8th, just go up and down until the oil warmed up. Didn't seem too unusual. Now that the gauge isn't moving at all I'm thinking something finally broke, but I can't imagine what.

Any ideas on where to start?
I've seen two 100's where the windings in the actual gauge portion got hot and melted rendering the gauge inoperative. Fairly easy fix as the gauges are separate parts behind cluster. I'd highly recommend using a mechanical gauge to test the actual oil pressure. You don't want to keep driving and find out that it wasn't an electrical issue, but that you in fact had no oil pressure.
 
Fired up the new plasma cutter made a fuel pump block off plate.
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The 2F’s oil filter lives where my Sniper fuel lines ran on the F so I have to remove the fuel pump to make room. Got the Sniper mounted. It has been a battle. The late model 2F intake has longer runners and puts the sniper into the brake master.
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I've seen two 100's where the windings in the actual gauge portion got hot and melted rendering the gauge inoperative. Fairly easy fix as the gauges are separate parts behind cluster. I'd highly recommend using a mechanical gauge to test the actual oil pressure. You don't want to keep driving and find out that it wasn't an electrical issue, but that you in fact had no oil pressure.
Appreciate the reply. I have a mechanical gauge coming in tomorrow to verify pressure.

The running theory is that there's water intrusion due to a leaking sunroof, which could explain why all my gauges stopped working for a few seconds after a startup today. I'll be looking in the driver footwell tomorrow for evidence of that.

The navigation and backup camera started working by themselves today, but I can't ignore that I've had 3 electrical issues in a row. There has to be a common denominator somewhere...
 
What seemed like a fairly easy weekend PAIR system and rear heater core delete has turned into a bigger project. Started with the PAIR delete...that was easy as I had the new O2 sensors to pop in the pair tube holes, old nuts came off like butter and installed new ones as always for parts like this.

Next up was the rear heater core delete...this was fairly easy too, but my hands and body took a bit of a beating getting all of those extra hose clamps out back up on the firewall...laying on the motor wasn't too terribly comfortable with my big bones! All said and done, it wasn't hateful. While doing that, I heard the slightest "crack" sound when finishing up on the heater control valve...not sure if it was on the mount or a nipple, so a new one is on order just in case along with the upper PHH hard line connector hose. This is easy with the system still drained, just waiting on parts.

Next up was to pull the elbow off of the block that goes to the upper radiator hose to drill and tap for the Koso water temp gauge...a perfect spot right on top of the elbow for this that others have done. It's been said that you can do this on the truck, but I don't want any metal shavings in my cooling system, so 2 nuts to pop that elbow off and it'll be a snap....NOT! The lower nut is very tricky to get to as it basically fouls on the alternator mount that holds the top pivot bolt for the alt. Ok...time to pull out the alternator to drop that mount! That's out now, waiting for parts...I'll tap for the gauge today and get that wired up so it's ready to go when I get more parts in...including the radiator hoses since the've been pulled off now.

Next up, now that the alternator is out, new belts for sure...and an upgrade to a 150 amp unit from the stock 80 amp. Got the Delta kit on the way for mounting, wiring, and pulley...

Just waiting on parts now!

And on a side note, my son Andrew and I went to pick up a set of Dana 60's for his Explorer SAS build...ditching the Dana 44 that he had for the front to go full monty...dayum these things are heavy! Picked up some roller 37’s and probably getting gears and locker from the marketplace seller, found in Chesapeake Beach…

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Fired up the new plasma cutter made a fuel pump block off plate. View attachment 3824624The 2F’s oil filter lives where my Sniper fuel lines ran on the F so I have to remove the fuel pump to make room. Got the Sniper mounted. It has been a battle. The late model 2F intake has longer runners and puts the sniper into the brake master. View attachment 3824625
Isn't that an F intake in the pic? It has the firing order on it.
 
Isn't that an F intake in the pic? It has the firing order on it.
Yes it is my old F intake. The 2F intake was an inch bigger interfering with the brake master. And I don’t want to start the snowball of moving things. This area is very congested and I’ve had to clearance things to fit before.
 
Not a lot of hobby time lately, but some quick fun.

Made light speed yesterday:
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.... followed within 5 minutes by limp mode:

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Replaced the no. 3 ignition coil and the PCV just because. Old PCV was not original and was gummy/sticky but working well at some point; lot of oil residue in there. Not in the picture, but pretty cool how well the injectors clean everything up deeper inside the ports.

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I built new mirrors for my bj70 after the ebay special broke off while driving. Used angle iron for the base, and then jeep mirrors for the arm and adjustment knuckle. I had to cut/rotate the arm, used an old f250 sway bar link for the slug inside the tube to weld the arm back together. Cut up the mount and fitted it to the angle iron and added some extra weld to the nut on the bottom. So if i ever break a mirror again, i can just buy a jeep replacement, and it still folds in the event of hitting a branch or something.
 
Oil pressure gauge started working randomly, so that's taking the backseat for now. Trying to figure out what's causing the nav and backup camera failure. I'm thinking it's something simple. Fingers crossed.
 
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I built new mirrors for my bj70 after the ebay special broke off while driving. Used angle iron for the base, and then jeep mirrors for the arm and adjustment knuckle. I had to cut/rotate the arm, used an old f250 sway bar link for the slug inside the tube to weld the arm back together. Cut up the mount and fitted it to the angle iron and added some extra weld to the nut on the bottom. So if i ever break a mirror again, i can just buy a jeep replacement, and it still folds in the event of hitting a branch or something.
So jeeps are good for something after all
 
View attachment 3829491View attachment 3829492

I built new mirrors for my bj70 after the ebay special broke off while driving. Used angle iron for the base, and then jeep mirrors for the arm and adjustment knuckle. I had to cut/rotate the arm, used an old f250 sway bar link for the slug inside the tube to weld the arm back together. Cut up the mount and fitted it to the angle iron and added some extra weld to the nut on the bottom. So if i ever break a mirror again, i can just buy a jeep replacement, and it still folds in the event of hitting a branch or something.
Knew you were a Jeep guy... No wonder you try hard to fit in and be accepted. Trying to get us to overlook that fact
 
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Finally upgraded my puny Viair compressor with a big boy compressor and 4 hose system. Tested it out this morning and filled all four 35's from 15 to 35 psi in 5 minutes flat, which is about the same amount of time it took the Viair to fill one tire.
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Finally upgraded my puny Viair compressor with a big boy compressor and 4 hose system. Tested it out this morning and filled all four 35's from 15 to 35 psi in 5 minutes flat, which is about the same amount of time it took the Viair to fill one tire.
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I am interested in seeing if those MOAB's are of decent quality etc. For that price could buy 2 and still not be in for much $$$
 
I am interested in seeing if those MOAB's are of decent quality etc. For that price could buy 2 and still not be in for much $$$
So far I've been impressed. After running it for 5 minutes there is no place on the compressor that is even warm to the touch, which surprised me. I like the auto shutoff feature, you set the PSI you want and it automatically shuts off when it gets there. We'll see how it runs over the long run but with the compressor, gauge and 4 hose system coming out to a little over $500, I'm pretty happy with it. At least I won't be the slowest one anymore filling up my tires!
 

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