Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (5 Viewers)

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That guy works on Land cruisers? He worked on my sister-in-laws 1996 tacoma since she lived in Lignum right there and it has 468K on so he must be doing something right.
I responded to this one, but wanted to confirm he does work on the LC/LX.

I’ll do a more thorough review once I pick up the LX. I will say so far this guy has been absolutely awesome and up there with the fabricator who did my bumpers and body lift, as the best shop I have dealt with so far with the LX.

Clear communication, options, approvals, etc., all at a very reasonable price. I am on travel so he sent a video confirming clocking and the actuator works.

Assuming all is well when I pick it up, and I really hope it is because I will be relieved to have a good shop I can trust, the guy has earned my business from here on out.
 
So yesterday when closing the rear hatch on my 80 series the glass spiderwebbed across the entire panel. It's still intact (presumably it's tempered glass) and being held in with the weatherstripping. I'm supposed to go wheeling on New Year's Day so I'm thinking of putting painters tape across the inside and outside to keep it intact, seems like a good idea on paper.

Regarding the replacement glass, below are the part numbers for a 97, a link to 3M urethane sealant, and a thread I found with these part numbers and other info. Question I have is this: should I source the parts and have a local company do the replacement, or is this something I can do myself? Wondering if this has happened to anyone else and how you handled it and if so, what you would do differently (if anything). Any other materials I need to source?

Glass, Back Door $525
68131-60290

Weathersrtip, Back Door Glass $125
68291-60050

Sealant: 3M Urethane $16

OK, I bought a hatch from another CLCC member to source the rear glass, and I bought a new weatherstrip (68291-60050). Also spoke to Mike at Windshield City and they only charge $125 to put the new glass in. Before I take it in though I'd like to take out the broken glass and inspect for any rust that may be lurking under the weatherstripping so I can fix it before taking it in. Any recommendations on how best to get it out? I have a set of plastic panel removal tools I was thinking of using but open to other ideas as I've never messed with glass before.

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@Mojo Jojo

honestly lay down a tarp and break it the rest of the way out and wear gloves when pulling out the seal
 
If there's any rust like some minor bubbling, Mike will treat it before installing new glass. He's not going to half-ass anything.
Driving around in this weather with a busted out rear window would be misery. Cold with a healthy dose of salt dust.

$0.02
 
What about the glass from the donor hatch? Or is it best to leave that to Mike to remove?
 
What about the glass from the donor hatch? Or is it best to leave that to Mike to remove?
you can take a razor blade and cut the existing seal all the way around and the glass will come right out
 
Driving around in this weather with a busted out rear window would be misery. Cold with a healthy dose of salt dust.

$0.02
I would tape a garbage bag around the opening to keep road salt from coming in. But yeah, not ideal driving conditions.
 
I had a pin on a backhoe cylinder that would not let go with everything from cherry hammering to Kroil etc.
in the end a 100 year old gun lube was able to penetrate it enough to loosen it up.

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I
 
Who'da thought that something food safe could beat modern chemicals!
I think you missed the "harmful or fatal if swallowed" label on the bottom..."eco friendly and skin safe", I'll give it that!
 
I think you missed the "harmful or fatal if swallowed" label on the bottom..."eco friendly and skin safe", I'll give it that!
If they're gonna make it smell like licorice then it HAS to be safe to eat, right? Right? ;)
 
If they're gonna make it smell like licorice then it HAS to be safe to eat, right? Right?
Now this on the other hand…, but it wont do :poop: On that rusty pin!

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Broken glass is out, doesn't look too bad underneath, just a little surface rust on the pinch weld that I'll take care of this weekend. I have an appointment with Mike at Windshield City on Monday to put the "new" glass in.
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Here's the donor hatch and recovered glass. Hatch is in pretty rough shape, I might just take it to the dump. Just need to clean off the urethane from the glass and it will be ready to install.
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I had a pin on a backhoe cylinder that would not let go with everything from cherry hammering to Kroil etc.
in the end a 100 year old gun lube was able to penetrate it enough to loosen it up.

Might be the Kroil was doing it's thing in the background the whole time... just in time for the ballistol to take credit.

Big fan of kroil for gunsmithing. It will keep moving for weeks and work its way into carbon deposits.
 
PAIR delete…going to install the Koso water temp gauge and delete rear heater core plumbing soon, possibly tomorrow if I get time.

Also grabbed some wheel spacers from Drew to play with fit on the 37’s that I grabbed from Ahmad. Mainly to see if I mind gears on 37’s, if good I’ll get a proper set of tires for mine… ;) Just scuffed the rear calipers so I couldn’t test ride as is.

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PAIR delete…going to install the Koso water temp gauge and delete rear heater core plumbing soon, possibly tomorrow if I get time.

Also grabbed some wheel spacers from Drew to play with fit on the 37’s that I grabbed from Ahmad. Mainly to see if I mind gears on 37’s, if good I’ll get a proper set of tires for mine… ;) Just scuffed the rear calipers so I couldn’t test ride as is.

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Looks sweet with the 37s, that’s on my to do list. Are you planning on moving the axle up an inch?
 
We’ll see if it fits in the garage first! I’d probably source the Delta 3L or possibly the Eimkeith lower mounts if I do go 37’s. Already have the Delta 3 which are perfect for the lift right now.
 

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