Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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spent the morning yesterday before the heat kicked in by installing a new cabin air filter that is always clogged after Relic Run.... then installed a new dead peddle foot rest as the org one broke while at Relic Run... refilled my 5lb propane tank that I ran dry at Relic Run... patched the sidewall in my "spare tire" with Glue Tread ( will check to make sure there are no leaks after a day of pressure ) because it got damaged at Relic Run... boy Relic was a bitch !

Also installed my NAPA Maxi Trac awning that I had bought about 3 or so years ago as well.

You're racking up quite the damage record :cool:
 
Yay, just what I wanted to be doing on the f’n hottest day of the year!

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Well update on the accident, wife's car was deemed a total loss. It's a shame, was the only car we've ever bought new and she was pretty upset about it but we were able to find a replacement

2016 Avalon Limited 80k on it with every option available for the year. Really clean car we bought it from the original owners who took exceptional care of the car. Always garage kept maintenance up to date. We are really enjoying it so far

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ouch. thought you had recently done that job.

its been on my list of deferred maintenance...but too damn hot and i've been too distracted to buy all the parts.
im in the exact same boat lol
 
is that red device a bearing race installer or something?
Yeah, from Trail Tailor taking the Witt’s End design and making available again, specifically for the inner seal installation.

Did this last year with my new axles, but didn’t have the tool, hopefully all good now!

Glad to get this soup out of the front axle, one more change today so it’s fresh for PA this weekend.

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Also got my Delta Ram phone mount for the 93-94 clock replacement installed…:p

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'09 Corolla Axle rebuild. Rebuilding CV axles might be one of the worst "nuisance" repairs.

Bought this car recently and have been piling miles on. All the rubber on this thing is old and cracking. Replaced all the window trims right after I picked it up. The driver's side outer boot started to blow grease this week. Did the pads, rotors, and trans fluid while at it. Old trans fluid was black and full of sediment.






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Did the same to my mother's 2005 VW Passat last winter. As you say, a real nuisance maintenance item. Worst part for me was trying to get the rassa-frassin' boot clamps on. The large side ones were just barely undersized to the point you couldn't get them on the joint if they were "clipped" and couldn't get them clipped if they were on the joint. I think half my entire time on the project was spent dealing with just those two boot clamps. You can see the difference in how much crush there was on each here.

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Finally some good progress on a few projects...for those that remember, I had a rough time at Relic with a stumbling random misfire, which was come and go until it came time for the 400 mile ride home...ran generally like crap off and on, and had a misfire the entire last 60 miles or so. It took me a couple of weeks to diagnose, and in my testing, plugs out and a full compression check were in order. I was saddened to find number 6 was pushing about 125 and the others closer to 185+, so I figured that some near future major work would be needed (I tested 3 separate times, removing the tool each time to be sure). That said, I fixed the stumble as it was a bad "trick" resistor for the EGR, yanked that back out to OEM specs and all fine since. I was a bit hesitant to run it up to Coal Miner, but decided that it has been running well since the repair and no issues with overheating (ever), oil/water contamination, or fluid levels. I upped my AAA to cover 200 miles of towing, so I decided to make a go of it! For the trip, the truck ran fine and as well as any other 80 on the ride, both highway and trails, so I was happy to keep up as expected. Long story short, I went ahead and did a fresh compression check today, and beyond thrilled to find all at 185-200 (#6 was actually the highest at 200!). I don't know if the EGR issue caused a sticky valve or something when I checked last time, but I could definitely hear instantly when I cranked each of the 3 test times that it didn't sound strong, and the numbers backed it up with the previous testing. I was almost giddy when I cranked it with the tester in #6 and could hear that it sounded like it should, and happy to back it up with a proper reading! :D

Since that worked out well, I decided to move on to my M101A2 trailer project....I was finally able to find hand brake units (one was frozen), and new cables. I was hoping that the cables would work as they weren't the right part number, but looked as correct as possible by pics and measurements. Popped off my freshly turned drums, popped the back shoe off, and installed the cable on each side...all fit perfectly as I had hoped! Now I have freshly turned drums, new shoes, new wheel bearings, new wheel cylinders, all new soft and hard lines, new handbrake cables and handles, and a new master & shock (last part of the project still to do) and it should be ready to inspect. I already did a new lighting harness (lights were already upgraded to LED), new shocks, new reflectors, new safety chains (back to OEM), and a nice fatty front wheel setup for moving it around easily. :wrench:

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Replacing the airbox and the rubber hose that connects the snorkel to the airbox is super tight and really doesn’t want to come on. I’ve been at it with my dad for a few hours now and we’re kind of out of ideas - any suggestions on how to expand the rubber hose slightly so that we can fit it on the flared airbox connector?

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We already sort of got it on once using trim removal tools to pry the edge of the hose up a bit, but it wouldn’t budge much further and came undone before we could attach the hose to the airbox deeply enough to get the hose clamp on.
 
Try heating the outer hose and/or cooling the inner hose.
 
Finally some good progress on a few projects...for those that remember, I had a rough time at Relic with a stumbling random misfire, which was come and go until it came time for the 400 mile ride home...ran generally like crap off and on, and had a misfire the entire last 60 miles or so. It took me a couple of weeks to diagnose, and in my testing, plugs out and a full compression check were in order. I was saddened to find number 6 was pushing about 125 and the others closer to 185+, so I figured that some near future major work would be needed (I tested 3 separate times, removing the tool each time to be sure). That said, I fixed the stumble as it was a bad "trick" resistor for the EGR, yanked that back out to OEM specs and all fine since. I was a bit hesitant to run it up to Coal Miner, but decided that it has been running well since the repair and no issues with overheating (ever), oil/water contamination, or fluid levels. I upped my AAA to cover 200 miles of towing, so I decided to make a go of it! For the trip, the truck ran fine and as well as any other 80 on the ride, both highway and trails, so I was happy to keep up as expected. Long story short, I went ahead and did a fresh compression check today, and beyond thrilled to find all at 185-200 (#6 was actually the highest at 200!). I don't know if the EGR issue caused a sticky valve or something when I checked last time, but I could definitely hear instantly when I cranked each of the 3 test times that it didn't sound strong, and the numbers backed it up with the previous testing. I was almost giddy when I cranked it with the tester in #6 and could hear that it sounded like it should, and happy to back it up with a proper reading! :D

Since that worked out well, I decided to move on to my M101A2 trailer project....I was finally able to find hand brake units (one was frozen), and new cables. I was hoping that the cables would work as they weren't the right part number, but looked as correct as possible by pics and measurements. Popped off my freshly turned drums, popped the back shoe off, and installed the cable on each side...all fit perfectly as I had hoped! Now I have freshly turned drums, new shoes, new wheel bearings, new wheel cylinders, all new soft and hard lines, new handbrake cables and handles, and a new master & shock (last part of the project still to do) and it should be ready to inspect. I already did a new lighting harness (lights were already upgraded to LED), new shocks, new reflectors, new safety chains (back to OEM), and a nice fatty front wheel setup for moving it around easily. :wrench:

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That is super great news about the misfire I am sure I am not as happy as you are that you don't have to do some major work!

now.... lets get that trailer inspected so it can then get sanded, primed and painted a matching white to the 80! Have to keep up land cruiser appearances as well as it will help you find the trailer after a nice night of "friendship" around the camp fire! That camo will make things harder!
 
Replacing the airbox and the rubber hose that connects the snorkel to the airbox is super tight and really doesn’t want to come on. I’ve been at it with my dad for a few hours now and we’re kind of out of ideas - any suggestions on how to expand the rubber hose slightly so that we can fit it on the flared airbox connector?

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We already sort of got it on once using trim removal tools to pry the edge of the hose up a bit, but it wouldn’t budge much further and came undone before we could attach the hose to the airbox deeply enough to get the hose clamp on.

Quack quack.... duck tape!
 

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