Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?

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Devilmans Hand said:
Nope. It's that close. Need to fix that. Think I can shorten the overall length, then stretch the angled portion towards the engine. Would give maybe an inch of room instead of a quarter inch. Alternatively I could raise the radiator in height, but that looks like more of a hassle.
Just received fan clutch and thermostat from amazon. If I remotivate I'll go mess around.
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That, or you can twist it up a bit to clear the fan.
 
I assume that trimming the block side will move the hose away from the fan.
 
Rear axle seal is leaking again after replacement. Looks like this will be a replacement early Friday morning before work. Breather is clear and now extended.
Think i installed the yota seal too deep the last time round. Seems that i can partially install the seal then use the four axle bolts to press the axle and seal into perfect position. Leaky seal means another set of new brake shoes...
 
Devilmans Hand said:
Rear axle seal is leaking again after replacement. Looks like this will be a replacement early Friday morning before work. Breather is clear and now extended.
Think i installed the yota seal too deep the last time round. Seems that i can partially install the seal then use the four axle bolts to press the axle and seal into perfect position. Leaky seal means another set of new brake shoes...
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Are you using OEM seals?
 
Yup, yota seal. Some axle threads mention that there is no universal depth that these seals are installed. Looks like I was Def wrong with the idea about using the axle to press in the seal for a perfect fit, mainly because there still needs to be slight clearance between the seal and abs ring. Although, I could do this, then tap it in just a wee bit further.
Possible solution to leaking rear inner axle seals (ABS equipt) | Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser & SUV | 4x4Wire TrailTalk

And if you want more specific differences between abs v non abs rings and different seals compared read this one.
A possible solution to leaking axle seals on Tacoma and 4Runners - TTORA Forum

Looks like I'll need to do the grease mark test and tap the seal a little bit at a time and fully test seat axle to perfectly match their relative depth and alignment.
 
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On all of the ones I've done the FSM calls out a specified depth for the tone ring retainer. The seal gets pressed flush to the ridge on the axle housing. Is your retainer in the correct spot? The retainer is a wear item as well, is it grooved at all? Lastly if you've dumped a bunch of gear oil out through the bearing you've probably washed all of the grease out of it, you may want to look at changing the bearings too.
 
Unknown about the retainer, but once i tear in there i will look closer.
Pretty sure i installed the seal to maximum depth to the inner ridge where the 4channels are cut. This truck has abs too.
DSC_0980.jpg

Not my pic, but similar if not identical parts.
Ryan, are you saying the seal should be pressed flush to the rear or the forward lip?

From what i could find online there is a spec depth for the original design seal, but not the improved seal ending in 6. Im thinking this is just forum folklore though.

Bearings will have to wait though, at least until after this weekend. Ryan, can you pm me a quote to replace bearings and outer seals on rear axles if i pull the axles?




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Found a thread on Yotatech.com talking about the dealership "fix" to address the common leak in the 3rd gens.
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/rear-axel-seal-leaking-3rd-gen-4runner-39679/index2.html

mr_schuster , 03-14-2008 09:19 PM
Its been a while since I worked at the dealer, but when I was there we replaced axle seals on almost every Sequoia and 4runner in our area. The inner seal would leak and the rear shoes would become saturated in gear oil. Worst I have seen was a locked up wheel because of the brakes swelling up due to saturated linings. Finally Tech support started helping us out a little by asking us not to install new seals flush against the inner axle housing. We were told the seal itself was not at fault, but the metal ring which resides behind the ABS ring was not properly placed on the axle itself. Engineering flaw. The outer ring on the axle is what the seal rides against. We would apply a light coat of white lithum grease to the axle ring and reinstall the axle into the housing then spin the axle one or two times. Then carefully removing the axle you could see where the seal had been riding on the axle ring, if at all. We would take a measurement with a dial caliper of where the seal was originally and where it needed to be. Removed the old seal and replaced the new one further forward from the old seal by the measurment taken. Sounds like a pain and it was, hopefully they have modified the seal to correct the problem, but if not try to do this if your truck is out of warranty.
 
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All the ones I've done have had the seal pressed in flush to that outer ridge. So as deep as you could press with a driver that fit the outer bore size. The tone ring and retainer then press to a specific depth to align with the sensor center line and the seal. It's a pain. I've got the press adapter that will pull just the ABS ring and retainer if they need to be aligned. Half the time it munches the tone ring though. I'll shoot you a PM when I get back later.
 
Put the rebuilt carb on the 40 tonight....still no joy:hmm:
 
Tore into the rear axle.
Confirmed that recently replaced seal was installed to Max depth. Grease test showed no contact with the abs keeper.
Installed a new seal about 2mm less deep into the housing and the seal just barely makes contact with the abs keeper as seen through the abs sensor hole.
Will most certainly need the keepers adjusted/replaced.
20151106_155141.webp

Only pic I got before getting too greasy.

On the positive I did get the rad filled with toyota red, upper rad hose adjusted and angled away from fan, and replaced the fan clutch.

Think there is supposed to be a skid or crossmember under the transfer case, since there is an isolator dangling.
20151106_163417.webp

Back view
I'm thinking Savage offroad 4 piece skid is in the future.
 
You can't beat the Bud Built skid plates IMHO.

Get the Combo deal and you'll have no worries.
 
Sam,

Before you go replacing things, I recommend a thorough cooling system assessment and strong system flush that includes the heater system. The Toyota cooling on these trucks does not , to my knowledge, have any significant issues.
 
Have you checked the cap? May not be holding pressure?
 
Stumpalama said:
Sam,

Before you go replacing things, I recommend a thorough cooling system assessment and strong system flush that includes the heater system. The Toyota cooling on these trucks does not , to my knowledge, have any significant issues.
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First thing i did was flush the system thrice. first with chemical, then flushed the chemical, then ran distilled water for a week before swapping to asian red.
To my knowledge the 3.4l is known to generate ALOT of heat.
I'm researching the use of Cummins Restore cooling system flush to remove the gunk glaze from the internals. The plastic capped radiator vastly limits what chemicals can be used.

Jakes40 said:
Have you checked the cap? May not be holding pressure?
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Yes, and replaced it just to make sure. Both are good.

The upper rad hose connection on the engine side had on the interior what looked like and scrapped off like smooth dry clay, like it had been glazed. I assume that the interior of the radiator is in a similar condition, disallowing adequate heat transfer from coolant to radiator fins for the designed flow rate. The truck runs proper temp for at least an hour in NVA traffic so the cooling system works up to a point. Truck also returns to normal temp at idle from the red temp line on stock gauge after about ten minutes. However, the coolant will quickly spike in temp when back on the highway. Im thinking this point is some system threshold. This tells me that the system again works so long as input heat is below a certain level.
The system quickly jumps into the red when engine is under load and rpm at or over 2k.
I have two solutions
  1. Increase the flow rate by improving the waterpump impeller effeciency. I assume that the chemical glaze may be effecting the shape and performance of the waterpump impeller.
  2. Replace radiator, even upgrade, so more heat can be removed when present. Before replacement im thinking of sacrificing the current radiator to chemical once the atf cooler is in place. If i can find a safer flush chemical then all the better. Impossible to get all the s*** out, so maximize the crap flushed engine side and start with a clean and better heat sink.
Mabe pick up a spare hood and install some lourvers fj40 style
 
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Replaced water pump and thermostat on the 80. Was making a lot of noise. Nice and quite now.

Devil, couple conversations in the 80's section about overheating at grade. Couple members suggest you need to manually shift to 2nd to prevent this.
 
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