- Thread starter
- #481
Anyone have an axle bearing puller handy?
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on?
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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If you don't need to save them, grab a long piece of pipe/tube and slide it from the other side and hit the bearing out from the inside. Then repeat on the other side.
- Thread starter
- #483
I think I have some steel lurking.
I can dig mine out if you need it.
- Thread starter
- #485
What I think I need from you is carrier bearing replacement on my diff. It binds in a particular spot and there is no evident damage to the pinion or ring gear, but it looks like the carrier bearing cage is dinged up from the loose axle flopping around.
- Thread starter
- #486
Sure! I am around Thanksgiving weekend if you have the parts and want to do it then.
Great. @cruiseroutfit and @beno got my shipments out super quick. I'm off the 27th and 28th, working on 29th, then off for a few more days. Should definitely have everything by then. Let me know what day works best for you! Thanks!
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
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- 140
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- 3,478
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- Commonwealth of N.VA
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- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Replaced the radiator in the 1997 4runner and installed the divorced AT cooler.
Hardest part was removing the old AT rubber line and those stupid clips at an impossible angle.
Koyo rad 1998 with a perfectly clean interior in contrast to the ceramic glazed old one.
The secret is to insert from the drivers side with the horn removed. Lines run through the access hole next to the air con lines, then snaked down passenger side frame to the hard AT lines. Repurposed some old line as an abrasion guard.
All burped and buttoned up.
Hardest part was removing the old AT rubber line and those stupid clips at an impossible angle.
Koyo rad 1998 with a perfectly clean interior in contrast to the ceramic glazed old one.
The secret is to insert from the drivers side with the horn removed. Lines run through the access hole next to the air con lines, then snaked down passenger side frame to the hard AT lines. Repurposed some old line as an abrasion guard.
All burped and buttoned up.
Swapped out my shocks for Bilstein 5125s. Painted the OME steering stabilizer black for the stealth look, will install it once dry tomorrow. What are people's thoughts on keeping or removing the rubber boots on the shocks? I've heard opinions both ways here on mud.
- Thread starter
- #490
I run mine without the covers and I run them the other way around, though I'm not sure why... oh yeah it helps lower my CG.
- Thread starter
- #491
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Do those bilsteins give you more travel than the non-L OME? Do you run with drop blocks on your sway bars?
Do those bilsteins give you more travel than the non-L OME? Do you run with drop blocks on your sway bars?
This is on my 40. On my 80 I run a standard OME heavy lift with a 1inch spacer up front and no drop brackets.
I think it depends on if it's a dual wall or single wall gas pressure shock. The dual wall can go either way but the gas pressure should be piston up. The lettering on the Bilstein is right side up so I figured that's the way they meant it to mount.
- Thread starter
- #496
I'll buy that.
Yea I see the pics now. Wasn't getting them before. Thanks!
Bilsteins go rod side down. It's to reduce unsprung weight. Not that it matters on a wheeling rig.
I found I missed a fuse on my in cab winch controler. So I replaced the burned wires for it and the melted reverse wires and installed a fuse under the winch cover. Now I need to find a shop to pressure test a couple of radiators.