Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (6 Viewers)

[Tubbster85]

I removed the LC emblem on the front fender, very easy from under the hood. Not sure what tie downs you are referring to? In the very small areas I used a Q-tip.

These in the rear. They may not be called tie downs.

 

[7schulz]

These in the rear. They may not be called tie downs. View attachment 2262969

Q-tip

 

[tlaporte]

These in the rear. They may not be called tie downs. View attachment 2262969

Those are called "footman loops."

 

[wngrog]

When detailing a Cruiser involves a Q Tip I have to step in and giggle a bit.

 

[7schulz]

When preserving a Cruiser involves a Q Tip I have to step in and acknowledge greatness a bit.

Fixed it for you.

 

[wngrog]

Fixed it for you.

As long as you don’t make any fake Patina we can still be friends

 

[Tubbster85]

As long as you don’t make any fake Patina we can still be friends

I have seen fake patina look real bad and I’ve seen some that looks %100 real. The ones that claim it’s real and it’s obviously fake are the ones that I don’t like. When they tell you it’s all fake and don’t cover it up, I don’t mind as much as long as it looks good. Fake patina seems to run rampant in the vintage truck and beetle crowds.

 

[redfj45can]

To improve the result on the bottom of your cars you can first use fertan.
Easy to process and then fluid film,
I used it back in the '80s the rust converter, first product on the left.

FERTAN LLC

MADE IN GERMANY FERTAN offers rust removers and converters, epoxies, and metal coatings that are ideal for the automotive repair and restoration industry as well as the restoration of historic shipwrecks, industrial applications such as gas tank sealing, the restoration of bridges, and much more.

fertanusa.com

You can get it in the USA

 

[redfj45can]

To improve the result on the bottom of your cars you can first use fertan.
Easy to process and then fluid film,
I used it back in the '80s the rust converter, first product on the left.

FERTAN LLC

MADE IN GERMANY FERTAN offers rust removers and converters, epoxies, and metal coatings that are ideal for the automotive repair and restoration industry as well as the restoration of historic shipwrecks, industrial applications such as gas tank sealing, the restoration of bridges, and much more.

fertanusa.com

You can get it in the USA

About their other products i can't tell anything never used.

 

[wngrog]

I still use a spray on rust converter in places I’ll be painting or applying Lizard Skin but I think it’s an unnecessary step if I’m going to Fluid Film

 

[redfj45can]

It`s so easy to use the Fertan, spray it let dry and then clean it with water. .....then fluid film.

Some who don`t need Fluid Film like the guys and gals in Arizona or California can use Fertan only.
Not a big deal and the bottom looks a bit better...,

 

[BHillteq]

Can't thank this thread enough, for both tips/tricks, and inspiration. I still need to do some cut/polishing, but CLR and Fluid Film transformed my Pickup.

For reference, what it looked like before. Honestly, pictures don't do it justice.

More pictures in my build thread: Builds - 'George' 1983 Pickup SR5 Long Bed
Thanks Nolen! (@wngrog)

 

[MrSAfro]

Howdy. Ok, we don't have CLR here in South Africa. Tried evapo-rust, with poor results for rust removal, so went ahead with next suggested step, just cover the whole car, every rust / surface rust / exposed metal area or part there is in Fluid Film, here are the results:

Now my question is. What is next? Wipe it down with a rag? Take a polish wheel to it? I know from past that this fluid film will stay and get on every damn hand or piece of clothing that gets near it if I leave it as is.

Nolen, you always achieve the looks I dream of, what would your next steps be.

P.S. Hood is off as engine and brake booster is out and being overhauled. Also busy overhauling axles as you can see.

 

[wngrog]

Yeah. Awesome. Once it soaks a few days wipe as much off as you can. The rest will evaporate. Good work.

 

[SipLife]

My name is Liam, I’m 17 years old, I come from a cruiser family, and I’ve been saving up to buy my own truck for awhile now. Found this 1980 Hilux pickup while biking in my neighborhood and got in touch with the owner through a mutual friend. It’s a 4spd 20R w/ PS and AC. Bought it today and drove it home like I stole it, these little pickups are a blast haha. Stumbled across your thread awhile ago and seems to me like this truck is the perfect candidate for patina preservation. What would you recommend? CLR scrub and fluid film?

 

[Dizzy]

@SipLife That pickup is a single-stage paint? That minitruck is one rad find.

 

[SipLife]

@SipLife That pickup is a single-stage paint? That minitruck is one rad find.

Yeah, original paint, bought it from the 3rd owner who wanted to get his kids involved but they had no interest in the truck. Now they’re heading off to college so he wanted it gone.

 

[Dizzy]

My name is Liam, I’m 17 years old, I come from a cruiser family, and I’ve been saving up to buy my own truck for awhile now. Found this 1980 Hilux pickup while biking in my neighborhood and got in touch with the owner through a mutual friend. It’s a 4spd 20R w/ PS and AC. Bought it today and drove it home like I stole it, these little pickups are a blast haha. Stumbled across your thread awhile ago and seems to me like this truck is the perfect candidate for patina preservation. What would you recommend? CLR scrub and fluid film?

View attachment 2289154View attachment 2289155View attachment 2289156

I recommend Boeshield for any body rust, but I personally keep it, and other solvents, away from weatherstrip and body mounts. Boeshield is paraffin wax. It works good on the bed of my pickup, where it can soak in the irregular surfaces, and rusty paint. After a week, a tacky wax layer appears and looks dull, so for the smooth-paint areas, I follow-up with a paper towel and Meguirs wax to bring a shine. If you use auto body wax on the rough areas of the paint itself, it will look chalky after it dries, and won't be easy to remove. I'm not a CLR user; I just want to see the water bead-up, or the rust appear dry, when it rains.

I'd be interested in seeing the under-side of the hood, and the paint in the engine bay, those are the areas that seem to transform the most.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

@dogfishlake?

 

[wngrog]

CLR is there for you if you have a oxidation. It does a great job on paint that is cracked and aged.

If your paint is as solid as it looks there just buff it with correction compound and wax it.