- Thread starter
- #421
I don’t see how you don’t have to repaint that blue. Just not seeing it
Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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I agree. What I was hoping is if I could get most of the blue off down to the original paint I could touch up the areas that were metal bondo etc. don’t have but hope left
It could be terribly expensive but you could try urethane bumper stripper on it. If the blue paint and primers are wimpy enough it may strip all but the green. It comes in spray cans, is expensive ($20 ish a can) and doesn't go real far but might be worth one can. As soon as the topcoat lifts wipe it off to protect the green. That green paint can take it because it is hard as a rock by now
I've got a new one to save, but it is a creampuff compared to my other trucks. Basically faded paint, but it will also need many scratch fixes and some paintless dent repair in quite a few spots.
The truck will get clay bar treatment, buffed, polished, touched up, and loaded with carnuba wax. Also planning to buff/polish the stainless trim.
I did the top of the door real quick.
The truck will get clay bar treatment, buffed, polished, touched up, and loaded with carnuba wax. Also planning to buff/polish the stainless trim.
I did the top of the door real quick.
- Thread starter
- #425
Nice!!
This is a before and after for 60 series steel chrome wheels. This set it pretty rough looking but CLR like @wngrog uses on lots of his stuff plus fine steel wool makes pretty quick work of cleaning them up.
After I am using Meguiars carnuba wax to seal them up in hopes of slowing corrosion. I think they will have to see the wax quite often but it is easy to put on. This method will work on any chrome parts but don't do it on stainless trim. That gets polished.
After I am using Meguiars carnuba wax to seal them up in hopes of slowing corrosion. I think they will have to see the wax quite often but it is easy to put on. This method will work on any chrome parts but don't do it on stainless trim. That gets polished.
- Thread starter
- #428
Nice!!
That is EXACTLY what my wheels need! Is there any particular type/coarseness of steel wool to buy? Man, that looks incredible!!!
Go with fine steel wool. I say this really because I don't know if coarse will scratch the chrome or not. Fine works great so ignorance is bliss in this case. Once chrome fails and gets pits in it, that's forever. The reality is that the pits are usually tiny and the rust bloom is huge. Once you clr and steel wool the crap away, it looks 100 times better. The wax is your friend keeping oxygen off of those bare metal exposed pits
Finally had a legitimate excuse to go out to
Lowe’s and got some supplies. These just got added on to the list.
Here’s the before
and here’s the after
Lowe’s and got some supplies. These just got added on to the list.
Here’s the before
and here’s the after
Here’s more
Only did the passenger side for now. Used a “finger applicator” for applying wax to wheels.
Also added fluid film to the spare tire carrier
Also added fluid film to the spare tire carrier
- Thread starter
- #434
That’s beautiful
Forgive my ignorance, but what is it about stainless that makes wax a no-no? Is anything needed on the stainless once it's polished?
done
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Wax is ok on stainless. I don't know that it will do a lot of good but it may offer a little scratch resistance. Like wax on a paint job helps keep brush pinstriping way down on the truck.
Wow looks great? Did you do pretty much the whole exterior? I didn’t expect it to be so shiny when it dried on mine, I didn’t polish it though.
