Preserving Patina - How To Tips and Tricks (11 Viewers)

[smokeater]

Hey fellas, I’m just starting to tackle the preservation process on my 40’s hardtop. I’m starting on the sides. I cleaned both w/soap and water, then began the CLR scrub. I just finished with one and it’s left a thin white film once dried. I’m using CLR full strength, I’m wondering if this should be a concern? (Degrading or dissolving the good paint)

Also, I’m waiting on my RC, but have the FF and was wondering if I should shoot the top and bottom surfaces that will be covered with gasket? Which one would you do?

 

[wngrog]

You have to wash off the CLR with soap and water after.

I put Fluid Film in every crack and under any surface that does not need to have adhesive or paint

It creeps and stays there as a film. I’ll wipe drips but leave the coating. It eventually soaks in

 

[UncaMo]

My lovely bride gave me a gift card to Lowe's for my birthday. Just got home from picking up all the supplies to start the patina preservation project. I think she just wants me out of her way for a while! I took some "before" pics I'll post in a while and take some pics of the process. When I first got the FJ I shot it with rattle-can paint (GM Engine Block Blue). I'll sand off the spray-bomb, knock off the rust with a wire brush and start cleaning the surfaces. I'm thinking that if I get bare metal anywhere, I'll wet it with water and leave the FJ in the side yard. In the New Mexico sun, I should have a treatable patina in just a few days.

 

[wngrog]

When I put Project Patina together 3 years ago I did not know all the tricks I’ve since learned to protect the metal.

I’m in the process of putting Lizard Skin on the underside and certain upper sections of the tub that I had already painted during metal repair

I was able to pull the center hump and tool box cover and give them the 1-2 punch with CLR and BLO. Both got thick coats of Lizard Skin on the bottom and a polish on the top.

Before on the hump

After

Super happy how they pop now in with this cool interior from @Cruiser Corps

 

[Brost]

When I put Project Patina together 3 years ago I did not know all the tricks I’ve since learned to protect the metal.

I’m in the process of putting Lizard Skin on the underside and certain upper sections of the tub that I had already painted during metal repair

View attachment 1986679

I was able to pull the center hump and tool box cover and give them the 1-2 punch with CLR and BLO. Both got thick coats of Lizard Skin on the bottom and a polish on the top.

View attachment 1986680

Before on the hump

View attachment 1986681

After

View attachment 1986683



Super happy how they pop now in with this cool interior from @Cruiser Corps

View attachment 1986684

What made you go with cruiser corps over SOR seat kit ?

 

[wngrog]

What made you go with cruiser corps over SOR seat kit ?

Because Mike at Cruiser Corps is an awesome vendor and I like the color better than the darker (more original they say) color.

 

[70 FJ40]

Ok. My turn to ask advise. My 40's paint is in good condition other than the places where the dents are or where the rust is eating away at the truck. The worst spot is along the back under the ambulance doors and rear quarter s above the tail light. There are a few other places as well but I think the PO must have done some sort of rust inhibitor. The only place that seems to be getting worse is the back. It's happening fast too. Way faster than I thought being that it's usually garaged in the winter and I live in the desert of Eastern Oregon. It's killing me and my original truck as well. I have not seen on this thread where someone has treated deep body rust. I had thought I would just need to save up some money and get the rust cut out and do a paint job. But. Ya. $$$$$ This thread gives me hope I can significantly slow the rust. What's the best thing to do here?

This little spot shows where the rust is starting to to show through. It's getting a little bumpy here from rust underneath.

Pretty decent dent and paint chipping from rocks and such.

And the worst of it.

 

[70 FJ40]

There is some rust in the inside as well but it's mostly surface. The frame and underside are in good shape as well. Again just surface stuff.

 

[wngrog]

I would go at that with Fluid Film. It creeps and stops rust and will protect it from getting worse. Clean. Up the back side and treat it heavy underneath. In places where the metal is Enclosed (like many rust prone areas of Cruisers) you can drill a hole, blow Fluid Film
Into the cavity and plug the hole back up with rubber.

I saw a wand someone sells that will really blow it into these type places.

Go to the Fluid Film webpage. Tons of great info there.

 

[70 FJ40]

@wngrog how much rust converter should I get? The link you provided on the first page to the rust store has an aerosol can that looks different then the one on your pic. Is it the same stuff? Or am I not finding the right thing? Have you tried the penetrol? What are your thoughts?

 

[wngrog]

Some other people I trust use Penatrol with great results.

The Rust Converter got a new label. That’s all. Same stuff.

On yours, on all that external stuff is use Fluid Film. Rust Converter does not creep. I think you want creep here.

 

[70 FJ40]

Ok. Ya. Creep seems good cause I definitely won't be able to get to it all. I was thinking I would use the rust converter on the frame and the places I can get to. Then apply the fluid film. Ya?
Thanks for this great thread and all the help.

 

[wngrog]

I like the Converter on the frame, yes.

 

[workingdog]

So, I have my rear bump stop out (I have to relocate it) and this thread made me wonder what I should do to it before I put it back in. I did a quick sand blast on it just so I could drill out the broken bolt. Should I use the foam stuff and just put it back in??? It's in great shape for something that's been under a car for 50 years. There's this soft stuff on it that I assume is some kind of coating put on it at some point.

 

[smokeater]

So, I have my rear bump stop out (I have to relocate it) and this thread made me wonder what I should do to it before I put it back in. I did a quick sand blast on it just so I could drill out the broken bolt. Should I use the foam stuff and just put it back in??? It's in great shape for something that's been under a car for 50 years. There's this soft stuff on it that I assume is some kind of coating put on it at some point.

View attachment 1987539

View attachment 1987540

I think I’d paint or powder coat it since you sandblasted it already and then put it back on...then hit it with the FF.

 

[70 FJ40]

I did one half of the hood and the right front fender with CLR. Did a great job of taking the rust off but the paint is noticably duller then it was. Should I was it before doing the BLO or Penetrol or will the BLO/Penetrol shine it back up?

 

[wngrog]

I did one half of the hood and the right front fender with CLR. Did a great job of taking the rust off but the paint is noticably duller then it was. Should I was it before doing the BLO or Penetrol or will the BLO/Penetrol shine it back up?

Can I see a pic of how much paint to rust ratio you have?

The scotchbrite pad is harsh. If you have good paint you need to go easy on how hard you scrub

 

[smokeater]

I did one half of the hood and the right front fender with CLR. Did a great job of taking the rust off but the paint is noticably duller then it was. Should I was it before doing the BLO or Penetrol or will the BLO/Penetrol shine it back up?

I was ending up with a light film after applying the CLR (causing a more dull appearance), but after cleaning it with soap and water it brightened up a bit.

Cheers

 

[wngrog]

If there is plenty of paint left without cracks and breaks you can polish it back up with wax and a buffer.

On my 55 I had rust areas. I did the entire hood with CLR and just oiled the bare metal parts and polished the painted parts

Before

During.

After

 

[workingdog]

So, what do you suggest for my rig. I did a quick rust repair on the driver's side rocker panel and the freeborn red I got from my local paint store was not a good match, so now it looks horrible. But, that's just a detail. I don't have a lot of surface rust, but I do have a lot of severe oxidation. So do I CLR it and then BLO it????

The bad repair. How do I get this to color match??? The freeborn red was way too light, this is Rustoleum red