Prepping for C-Channel Replacement (1 Viewer)

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my work outlining c-channel replacements from Trail Tailor. In short ..get a air chisel.

 
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Lots of beer. Face shields. Grinder with cutoff wheel and rock wheel. 5 lb sledge. Air hammer/chisel. An acetylene torch or plasma torch will be your friend. Do yourself a favor and plan to drop the gas tank.

Start hitting your shackles with penetrating oil now. Unless they're new you may not be able to re-use.

I used a plasma cutter, I would "wash" the head off the rivet then burn a hole into the center and get it nice and hot then drive the rivet our with an air hammer. Sometimes it took the manual sledge to get the rivet moving.

It's a dirty job, once I got the system down I could get one rivet out every 5 to 10 minutes.

You can coat the channels and frame with POR 15 or equivalent. I also slathered axle grease in between the frame and channels.

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Here's my thread: Builds - 1983 Cruiser Story
 
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Thanks. All good advice. I was really hoping to not drop the fuel tank.

It's only an extra hour or two of work, not bad and it makes the job so much easier with more room to work. Plus you don't have to worry about accidental combustion while throwing sparks off a torch or grinder.
 
A c-channel will divide buddies and friends to lifelong enemies, it is worse than money or women.
Ask the creepy neighbor for help, the lone wanker, any guy that looks suspicious; jeep owners
 
Air chisel is your friend. Fast, no heat, no sprues, minimizes damage to frame, reaches into places where a grinder won't fit. Start with it first. Once a rivet head is removed, use a punch and 2 lb hammer to drive the remaining rivet out.

The front has a stitch weld that must be ground off.

I sandwiched in a thick layer of waterproof grease on reassembly.
 
A c-channel will divide buddies and friends to lifelong enemies, it is worse than money or women.
Ask the creepy neighbor for help, the lone wanker, any guy that looks suspicious; jeep owners
I might have to consider bobbing after reading this.
 
The decision has been made to the drop the tank. What should I be replacing while I have it out?
Fuel sending unit and all the rubber hoses in the evaporator. You might even take the time to check the inside of the tank to make sure it’s not completely rusted out. I think Eastwood sells some products for sprucing up old gas tanks.
 
If you have never disassembled your original shackles and bushings...they are going to be bear to break free. The rubber bushings seize onto the shackle pins. I suggest you research this. Many including me have burned the bushings until they melted. I used mapp gas torch.
 
I use a 36 grit flapper disc on as many rivet heads as possible. Takes them down fast and heats the metal enough to help drive them through at the same time.

Pick them up at most any welding supply.

J
Couldn't agree more here. Though I can't speak for the C channel replacement, large steel rivets anywhere are easily handled by a low grit flap disc. I'm very tempted to maybe next summer tackle the C channels on my 62 for the sake of long term protection before things get too nasty. I'm just not liking how my original C channels are looking at this point.

@g-man a MAPP torch took care of those stubborn bushings real easy! Just do it outside for the love of God....
 
Spring Bushings??
I disconnected the spring from the shackle and then the shackle from the mount. I suppose you could leave the shackle on the spring but you still have to deal with the bushings in the upper part of the shackle where it's pinned to the mount. And you have to remove the shackle from the mount before you remove the rivets in the mount.

OME greased pins and poly bushings is going to make this a NON issue.
 

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