Post up what you pedal (10 Viewers)

[CruiserTrash]

Right on. The Rene Herse tires look great but probably cost as much as my frame. I've seen the XOXO here and there, looks like a cool bike. Those early hybrids are great but the hills around here are the killer.

That setup you're going for would be great for an around-town Burrito Slayer / growler getter. My problem, the growler would be half empty by the time I got home lol.

Yep, it’ll be a quick around town bike. Part of me wants roll some graded dirt miles on it, so maybe I opt for a 5 spd S-A rear hub and then something like a 52/30 wide range double 50.4bcs crankset - a few more options. Every little bit takes me further from the K.I.S.S. principle though.

Remembered I have a Cruiser buddy in England right now - and he’s also a cyclist. I sent him a message to see what the market on old frames is like…

 

[CruiserTrash]

Well that was fast. Weeks of looking and something popped up today.

1978 Trek 730 in my size
-They’d been around about 18 months and it was just a couple guys hand brazing frames in a barn; this bike was 2nd from the top of the line
-Full Reynolds 531 with great geometry
-Campy Neuvo Record headset, shifters, derailleurs
-Modolo brakes
-Stronglite crankset
-What looks like a brand new Brooks B17
-Fancy canvas & leather British saddle bag, maybe 8L size
-Unknown bars
-Garbage wheelset

He wants $400 complete, $300 without the wheels. I think it’s too much bike to say no to. Some of the parts can get sold off to fund other parts - probably the campy rear derailleur and brakes, maybe the bag.

What do we think?

 

[majdomo]

Well that was fast. Weeks of looking and something popped up today.

1978 Trek 730 in my size
-They’d been around about 18 months and it was just a couple guys hand brazing frames in a barn; this bike was 2nd from the top of the line
-Full Reynolds 531 with great geometry
-Campy Neuvo Record headset, shifters, derailleurs
-Modolo brakes
-Stronglite crankset
-What looks like a brand new Brooks B17
-Fancy canvas & leather British saddle bag, maybe 8L size
-Unknown bars
-Garbage wheelset

He wants $400 complete, $300 without the wheels. I think it’s too much bike to say no to. Some of the parts can get sold off to fund other parts - probably the campy rear derailleur and brakes, maybe the bag.

What do we think?

Sounds rad. Saddle's worth $100ish on its own at least (unless you need it). Skip the wheels as it sounds like you're building a set. Bag and derailleur, brakes. What brakes would you go with?

 

[nonstopbike]

Well that was fast. Weeks of looking and something popped up today.

1978 Trek 730 in my size
-They’d been around about 18 months and it was just a couple guys hand brazing frames in a barn; this bike was 2nd from the top of the line
-Full Reynolds 531 with great geometry
-Campy Neuvo Record headset, shifters, derailleurs
-Modolo brakes
-Stronglite crankset
-What looks like a brand new Brooks B17
-Fancy canvas & leather British saddle bag, maybe 8L size
-Unknown bars
-Garbage wheelset

He wants $400 complete, $300 without the wheels. I think it’s too much bike to say no to. Some of the parts can get sold off to fund other parts - probably the campy rear derailleur and brakes, maybe the bag.

What do we think?

I’d say yeppers. Try to negotiate the price down to keep it complete , garbage wheels or not. Especially if he called them ‘garbage’ Rollers will be nice and can always sell/donate/art down the road.

 

[NearJetties]

Well that was fast. Weeks of looking and something popped up today.

1978 Trek 730 in my size
-They’d been around about 18 months and it was just a couple guys hand brazing frames in a barn; this bike was 2nd from the top of the line
-Full Reynolds 531 with great geometry
-Campy Neuvo Record headset, shifters, derailleurs
-Modolo brakes
-Stronglite crankset
-What looks like a brand new Brooks B17
-Fancy canvas & leather British saddle bag, maybe 8L size
-Unknown bars
-Garbage wheelset

He wants $400 complete, $300 without the wheels. I think it’s too much bike to say no to. Some of the parts can get sold off to fund other parts - probably the campy rear derailleur and brakes, maybe the bag.

What do we think?

Doooo it. You know I love my vintage Treks.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Sounds rad. Saddle's worth $100ish on its own at least (unless you need it). Skip the wheels as it sounds like you're building a set. Bag and derailleur, brakes. What brakes would you go with?

Dia-Compe long reach center pull brakes to fit 650B wheels … in a quest for wider rubber. B17s are my favorite so that stays. Wheelset is probably going to be a Sturmey-Archer 5spd based thing. It all makes sense.

@nonstopbike Fair point, however … a similar set can be had used for about $20. So the good money is on getting this bike without. I’ll pick up some cheap rollers just to be able to do som shakedown rides though.

 

[egarda11]

Recently reclaimed my Globe (Specialized) Roll 1 from my brother. Turns out it’s Ryobi green… (excuse the mess)

Pedaled many a mile throughout Columbus in fixed gear during my college years at OSU. He was riding the same gatorskins I put on in ~2012 (I pulled plenty of broken glass shards from them in my use). Time for a total overhaul and cleanup. Looking forward to having it back and tooling around Denver.

My more recent bike has been this Marin Nicasio + which is great and also pending some upgrades.

 

[CruiserTrash]

View attachment 3826064Recently reclaimed my Globe (Specialized) Roll 1 from my brother. Turns out it’s Ryobi green… (excuse the mess)

Pedaled many a mile throughout Columbus in fixed gear during my college years at OSU. He was riding the same gatorskins I put on in ~2012 (I pulled plenty of broken glass shards from them in my use). Time for a total overhaul and cleanup. Looking forward to having it back and tooling around Denver.

My more recent bike has been this Marin Nicasio + which is great and also pending some upgrades.

View attachment 3826074

Those poor Gatotskins! They’ll finally get to rest after 13 years of service. Whereabouts in Denver are you? I’m also an Ohioan, and I live in Five Points now. I daily a blue 60 with white stripes, give me a honk or a wave if you see me.

…I bought the Trek tonight. Last post on it and then I’ll stop sucking all the oxygen out of this thread. Serial number makes it an early 1979 710. Based on the Campagnolo dropouts and braze ons, which were not on the spec sheet for batch made bikes, this was a custom order.

I like rusty steel things obviously. Pretty much every component is period correct Italian. Campy shifters, derailleurs, headset, seat post. Modolo brakes and levers. Cinelli bars and stem. Non Italian stuff: crankset is a Stronglight TS, the bottom bracket simply says “JAPAN”, the top tube cable guides are Huret, and the bag is what looks to be a very old Karrimor from England. @nonstopbike I talked the guy down on price with the wheels so I have a rideable bike, you were correct about getting it complete. The wheel parts are low grade, but somebody spent some serious time trueing them - they roll very straight.

Bonuses: St Christopher head tube medallion and vintage license plate.

The way this things shifts has me very seriously reconsidering the internally geared hub thing. It might be the nicest friction shifting bike I’ve ever ridden.

Even the shift cable guide is this highly polished Campy piece.

First things: Nitto riser quill stem, MKS pedals, Soma Portola bars, and dear lord some new bar tape.

Alright, I’m done for now. Have at it!

 

[nonstopbike]

1st thing: you didn’t mention the seat was red ! Love it. And the bartape.

This is an amazing pickup. Can’t wait for you to fine tune it to your fun parts.

One though to keep it friction but update the horrid ergonomics (and update to modern period cable routing) could be gevenalle Shifters – Gevenalle - https://www.gevenalle.com/product-category/shifters/

 

[nonstopbike]

What tires are on there? And what kinda gap have you got with em as is?

Prolly max this bike to 700x32? Fork crown and brake bridge being first likely pain points

 

[egarda11]

Those poor Gatotskins! They’ll finally get to rest after 13 years of service. Whereabouts in Denver are you? I’m also an Ohioan, and I live in Five Points now. I daily a blue 60 with white stripes, give me a honk or a wave if you see me.

…I bought the Trek tonight. Last post on it and then I’ll stop sucking all the oxygen out of this thread. Serial number makes it an early 1979 710. Based on the Campagnolo dropouts and braze ons, which were not on the spec sheet for batch made bikes, this was a custom order.

View attachment 3826216

I like rusty steel things obviously. Pretty much every component is period correct Italian. Campy shifters, derailleurs, headset, seat post. Modolo brakes and levers. Cinelli bars and stem. Non Italian stuff: crankset is a Stronglight TS, the bottom bracket simply says “JAPAN”, the top tube cable guides are Huret, and the bag is what looks to be a very old Karrimor from England. @nonstopbike I talked the guy down on price with the wheels so I have a rideable bike, you were correct about getting it complete. The wheel parts are low grade, but somebody spent some serious time trueing them - they roll very straight.

Bonuses: St Christopher head tube medallion and vintage license plate.
View attachment 3826220
View attachment 3826221

The way this things shifts has me very seriously reconsidering the internally geared hub thing. It might be the nicest friction shifting bike I’ve ever ridden.
View attachment 3826222

Even the shift cable guide is this highly polished Campy piece.
View attachment 3826223

First things: Nitto riser quill stem, MKS pedals, Soma Portola bars, and dear lord some new bar tape.

Alright, I’m done for now. Have at it!

Love the 60. Im in a 5th gen 4R. I’m in Virginia Village south of Cherry Creek. I joined RS about 2yrs ago and think we’ve loosely crossed paths but will make a point to introduce myself next time I see ya.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Love the 60. Im in a 5th gen 4R. I’m in Virginia Village south of Cherry Creek. I joined RS about 2yrs ago and think we’ve loosely crossed paths but will make a point to introduce myself next time I see ya.

I’m sure we’ve met then! With so many people in RS these days and my poor attendance, I lose track. I’ll actually be at the meeting Wednesday, so please say hi if you come.

@nonstopbike I didn’t like the saddle but my wife has 100% talked me into it tonight! The obnoxious bar tape will leave and be replaced with cloth. I’ve been a bar end shifter convert for about 15 years now and I’m really trying to do something different with this one. The link you sent is interesting - it’s like thumbies pods on brakes levers, never seen that. Better than brifters with 700 clockwork springs & cogs inside.

Plenty of room for big rubber. Stays and fork measure a minimum of 46mm wide, with plenty of room above, even at the seat stay brake bridge. No real need for 650B here.

Current tires are 23 Continental Sport 1000. I’ll probably do Panaracer Pasela 35s or 38s.

 

[NearJetties]

I’m sure we’ve met then! With so many people in RS these days and my poor attendance, I lose track. I’ll actually be at the meeting Wednesday, so please say hi if you come.

@nonstopbike I didn’t like the saddle but my wife has 100% talked me into it tonight! The obnoxious bar tape will leave and be replaced with cloth. I’ve been a bar end shifter convert for about 15 years now and I’m really trying to do something different with this one. The link you sent is interesting - it’s like thumbies pods on brakes levers, never seen that. Better than brifters with 700 clockwork springs & cogs inside.

Plenty of room for big rubber. Stays and fork measure a minimum of 46mm wide, with plenty of room above, even at the seat stay brake bridge. No real need for 650B here.
View attachment 3826370

Current tires are 23 Continental Sport 1000. I’ll probably do Panaracer Pasela 35s or 38s.

Highly recommend the Panaracer Gravelking smoothie over the Paselas for a bit more coin. I’ve commuted on both. They’re comparable to the Rene Herse tires (also made by panaracer) but a significantly cheaper. all ridden on 80s steel Treks too as you know .

Looks like there is a new Gravelking SS (Not the knobby-ish SK) if you want a bit more tread.

 

[CruiserTrash]

Highly recommend the Panaracer Gravelking smoothie over the Paselas for a bit more coin. I’ve commuted on both. They’re comparable to the Rene Herse tires (also made by panaracer) but a significantly cheaper. all ridden on 80s steel Treks too as you know .

Looks like there is a new Gravelking SS (Not the knobby-ish SK) if you want a bit more tread.


View attachment 3826402View attachment 3826403

The Rene Hearse stuff always looks real cool when I poke around the website, but geez … the prices! I did know Panaracer made their tires and so they come off a bit like “Do you want to be MORE FRENCH than all your friends? Pay double for your Japanese tires and we’ll put a French name on them!”

I’ve been eyeballing a few of the different Gravel Kings but they’re about twice as much as the standard Pasela. Budget might be the dictator here. If I start doing more light dirt I might spring for a second set of tires, maybe the gravel King SK or EXT. Last time I bought Paselas I as maybe 5 years ago and this time around I’m glad Panaracer has really boiled down the amount of variants. Used to be like 15 varieties of each tire, each available in certain sizes. Totally unnecessary. Just make a couple good variants in all the sizes - which they seem to have done.

We’ve talked before, I used to have a 930 years ago. The 950 being a step above … what a killer bike. Hard to find too! The bars, the racks, the Brooks, that’s my kind of bike. The gearing is probably perfect for pulling the kiddos around in that trailer too.

 

[nonstopbike]

@CruiserTrash plenty of space!!

As wide as it’ll accept, and no shame to a mullet width.

I’ve had pasela and gravelking but know the offerings have multiplied from the brand in recent years.

The gevenalle may allow you to use the campy DT shifters too. I think they were designed with cyclocross in mind, to get people better ergonomics without the cost of integrated brifters (I know some cringe at that word, I support it). For use with older parts, pull ratio/friction is key and it looks like they made a GC model if you’d like to keep it more era correct( and have poor bar-> hood transition and be grabbing something like a sideways matchbox).

 

[CruiserTrash]

Snagged the pedals off my other bike and did a little 2 miles test spin. Noticed the seat stays are bent

Tracks pretty straight. Turning left feels like it dives just a hair more than turning right - it’s almost not noticeable. I might go to YouTube University and see if I can bend these back without losing their strength. Or maybe find a local frame builder to figure it out. Bummer. I’ve bought bent bikes before and learned my lesson, so I checked this by eye when I bought it. Missed it on the dusk light though.

 

[nonstopbike]

Go grab some 2x4 and cold set that biiiiiish.
Jk. Frame builder or trusted bike shop with frame alignment tools to get that back.

And no damage to the seattube or bb lug?

Harsh but that golden light filter def got you.

It'll be ok

 

[CruiserTrash]

Go grab some 2x4 and cold set that biiiiiish.
Jk. Frame builder or trusted bike shop with frame alignment tools to get that back.

And no damage to the seattube or bb lug?

Harsh but that golden light filter def got you.

It'll be ok

Oh, I’ve bent frames back to square[ish] before haha. Long pipes and some burly friends … ah to be in my
20s again. I found a straightforward DIY method for this issue and I’ll give it a go this week. Couple of 2x4s, a spacer for the rear dropout, and body weight.

Used several pieces of thin twine, a long straight edge, and calipers … everything else is square to the BB +/-1mm. Even the rear dropouts are equally spaced from the centerline and square somehow. That’s good: it means the bend is highly localized, and a highly localized pressure (while stabilizing everything else) will set those stays back to where they belong.

 

[NearJetties]

Oh, I’ve bent frames back to square[ish] before haha. Long pipes and some burly friends … ah to be in my
20s again. I found a straightforward DIY method for this issue and I’ll give it a go this week. Couple of 2x4s, a spacer for the rear dropout, and body weight.

Used several pieces of thin twine, a long straight edge, and calipers … everything else is square to the BB +/-1mm. Even the rear dropouts are equally spaced from the centerline and square somehow. That’s good: it means the bend is highly localized, and a highly localized pressure (while stabilizing everything else) will set those stays back to where they belong.

steel is real

 

[CruiserTrash]

Small update. Haven’t straightened the frame out yet, but the bike tracks really well so I’ve been ignoring it.

Kool Stop brake pads installed
Panaracer Pasela 700x35C tires installed
Nitto dirt drop stem, Nitto bars, and bar tape installed
Black oil-based enamel lug lining done

It’s slowly becoming “my” bike

I’m really loving these super shallow drops. Nitto B130AAF. I wanted the Nitto dirt drop road version but ended up with the MTB version - higher rise, longer reach. I may end up going with the road version later. Newbaums padded cotton bar tape, shellacked and twined. The tires are a tight fit - if I stand up and put the hammer down on a hill climb or sprint the frame flexes enough that the rear tire barely rubs on the chain stays. Oh well! I’m loving the black lug lining too - very goth haha.