Post up what you pedal (7 Viewers)

[LINUS]

On the hub discussion. I think at most price points it is hard to beat DT Swiss. I firmly believe that all the hub spacing changes (boost, boost plus, super boost,…) are entirely due to the fact that DT Swiss 240’s are approaching eternal and there were enough in circulation to cover the demand for hubs for the next century or so.

Running 240’s on most of our bikes, 350’s on my wife’s.

+1 for value based hubs.

Fanatik bikes is maybe ~40mins from my house so I go there plenty & that’s the consensus with the staff too. Kings & Onyx are nice for us who don’t have kids, but DT’s are work-horses.

Oh, and get ready - a new tire/rim & hub size in the low 30’s (32” is what they were guessing) —the other day when I went in for a 1 1/8” to tapered neck headset.
It’s coming most likely for Summer ‘23 - like we need that.

It’s become such a cash grab introducing all this crap that is only a ‘standard’ for 3-4yrs now.

Shyt, I’m going to order all new FR hubs in 20mm x ____ & I bought some 15mm ID pipe w/ a 22mm OD so I can mill to a intereference-fit 20mm & make any of 20x110 hubs work on my single crown boost fork.

I’m prob going 11sp on the Nomad ‘cause it’s over $875 tax’d for a XTR 12’er cass,derail,shifter. - XT is damn near impossible to find, so we’ll see.

 

[coleAK]

Anyone getting on the shorter crank bandwagon?

For MTB I’ve always ridden 170 (5’8” 30” inseam), my 17YO son (5’9” 31” inseam) is also on 170’s. My 15YO daughter is on 165’s. Both kids races Enduro and endurance, we all ride everything from true DH, park, enduro, XC, to overnight bike touring. I’ve always been of the one quiver bike mindset (except for DH rigs). We are all on overbuilt trail/light enduro rigs: I’m on a Kona Process, son a Trance X, daughter Salsa Rustler.

I’ve ordered my daughter a set of the Hope tech 155’s and considering trying the atlas 165’s I take off her bike.

 

[dbbowen]

@OGBeno - is that 3” tire a 27.5+ or is it considered a fat tire?

— You need to mill open the bridge any on that fork or is it a 29’er ??

— Asking as a Maxxis 2.8 on a 35mm ID rim rubbed in my Fox 36 on the Bronson, why I got the 29’er 40 for the Nomad build.

If its 27.5+ most 29 forks work for them, my wifes levo is like that. Its got a 29 fox 36 but a 27.5x2.8 tire

Do yourself a favor & try a Onyx RR hub.

Silent freespin / no “angry bees” on your 6.
Plus the engagement is crazy.

I was early into them when it was a offshoot product from their crop equipment business - for a RR hub going silent is like running in the woods but faster & no foot noise.

You hear little crap ‘ping’ off your bike frame & dirt/rocks moving under the tires.

You literally gotta watch so you don’t scare bears - no joke.

dude the Onyx hubs are sooooo nice. My buddy has them on his bike and we traded. I have been using I9 Hydras for the past like 4-5 years across a few bikes and the silent hubs are an absolute gamechanger. My next wheelset i build up Im going with Onyx.

 

[mano002]

I am a big fan of the DT Swiss stuff... their hubs are real simple to service and the new 370's with the LN Ratchet system are easy to upgrade. I just dropped in the 54t ratchet into my 370's last night in about 2 minutes...

I've had 180's, 240's, and 350's... never any issues.

I blew up a 370, and DT swiss replaced it with a 350, and I haven't had any issues since. I wonder if there is a strength difference than the upgraded 370 is as-strong as the 350.

 

[dbbowen]

I blew up a 370, and DT swiss replaced it with a 350, and I haven't had any issues since. I wonder if there is a strength difference than the upgraded 370 is as-strong as the 350.

Isnt the 370 a 3 pawl hub vs the star ratchet 350? The 370 is notoriously weak, i blew up an older one as well. Didnt know they redesigned it. The hub engagement on the older ones was pretty bad

edit, just looked and it seems the new 370s are 36t ratchet

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Isnt the 370 a 3 pawl hub vs the star ratchet 350? The 370 is notoriously weak, i blew up an older one as well. Didnt know they redesigned it. The hub engagement on the older ones was pretty bad

edit, just looked and it seems the new 370s are 36t ratchet

Yup, the new 370's ('Ratchet LN' I think is the distinguishing name) are much stronger and can be upgraded, and run the same ratchets as the 350

As much as we view pawls as bad, the i9 stuff everyone is raving about are pawl and seem to work well? That said, I do still like the ratchet drive stuff

 

[dbbowen]

Yup, the new 370's ('Ratchet LN' I think is the distinguishing name) are much stronger and can be upgraded, and run the same ratchets as the 350

As much as we view pawls as bad, the i9 stuff everyone is raving about are pawl and seem to work well? That said, I do still like the ratchet drive stuff

hahaha ironically i went from the broken 370 to the I9 hydra and have been them it for like 4-5 years now. The pawl design is much much more robust on the i9. There is 6 pawls in the hydra instead of the 3 in the dt370. Kinda funny, the i9 hydra uses little mini leaf springs for each of the pawls

 

[Somebodyelse5]

hahaha ironically i went from the broken 370 to the I9 hydra and have been them it for like 4-5 years now. The pawl design is much much more robust on the i9. There is 6 pawls in the hydra instead of the 3 in the dt370. Kinda funny, the i9 hydra uses little mini leaf springs for each of the pawls

It has 6, but only 3 are engaged at any given time. They get that low engagement by having the second set of 3 pawls out of phase from the first set... it's pretty clever.

So, from a stress perspective, ratchet drive systems are still spreading the load over a larger area... but no one seems to be having issues with the i9's and they do look killer... there is no getting a DT swiss hub in bright purple or turquois unfortunately.

 

[dbbowen]

It has 6, but only 3 are engaged at any given time. They get that low engagement by having the second set of 3 pawls out of phase from the first set... it's pretty clever.

So, from a stress perspective, ratchet drive systems are still spreading the load over a larger area... but no one seems to be having issues with the i9's and they do look killer... there is no getting a DT swiss hub in bright purple or turquois unfortunately.

haha thats true, my hydras have always been black. I liked the sound originally but after riding a silent onyx hub, that is what im going with next i think. You cant beat the silence

 

[coleAK]

speaking of silent hubs. Anyone had Chris Kings lately? I built my daughter a wheel set 3 years ago with CKs, they would go silent then the freewheel would seize up…. I would say it was a fluke but it happened three times. After the 3rd (which required a 2.5 hr 7 mile hike out carrying her bike) I unlaced the wheels and put on 240s.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

speaking of silent hubs. Anyone had Chris Kings lately? I built my daughter a wheel set 3 years ago with CKs, they would go silent then the freewheel would seize up…. I would say it was a fluke but it happened three times. After the 3rd (which required a 2.5 hr 7 mile hike out carrying her bike) I unlaced the wheels and put on 240s.

Did you ever pull them a part and have a look?

I have an old set of CK's on my 26" Ragley and they did lock up once... somehow the circlip behind the freehub snagged the spline under the cassette and wrapped up. kind of a fluke... i think it was because the circlip was bent from a bad service

 

[coleAK]

Did you ever pull them a part and have a look?

I have an old set of CK's on my 26" Ragley and they did lock up once... somehow the circlip behind the freehub snagged the spline under the cassette and wrapped up. kind of a fluke... i think it was because the circlip was bent from a bad service

All 3 times it was a failure of the female threads on the internal side of the helix. That summer it was very wet, from talking to my LBS tech he said if kings fail it is almost always in the rain/mud. I ran the old chrome ones in the 90’s on my touring bike with thousands of trouble free miles, after this I wouldn’t run them again on a MTB.

I guess I should also mention, the hubs were new and microspline.

 

[nor_cal_cyclist]

Anyone getting on the shorter crank bandwagon?

For MTB I’ve always ridden 170 (5’8” 30” inseam), my 17YO son (5’9” 31” inseam) is also on 170’s. My 15YO daughter is on 165’s. Both kids races Enduro and endurance, we all ride everything from true DH, park, enduro, XC, to overnight bike touring. I’ve always been of the one quiver bike mindset (except for DH rigs). We are all on overbuilt trail/light enduro rigs: I’m on a Kona Process, son a Trance X, daughter Salsa Rustler.

I’ve ordered my daughter a set of the Hope tech 155’s and considering trying the atlas 165’s I take off her bike.

I'm mainly a roadie, and so far sticking with my 172.5's....whats the advantage?

speaking of silent hubs. Anyone had Chris Kings lately? I built my daughter a wheel set 3 years ago with CKs, they would go silent then the freewheel would seize up…. I would say it was a fluke but it happened three times. After the 3rd (which required a 2.5 hr 7 mile hike out carrying her bike) I unlaced the wheels and put on 240s.

I just built up a new set of wheels for my latest build - just need a lock ring for the rear disc...Easton rims with King hubs. Haven't got them on the road yet, but hoping they don't have issues. Pretty sure King is supplying the guts for Enve's carbon shells on their wheel sets...no issues in the first 1500 miles on my gravel grinder running G27's.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I'm mainly a roadie, and so far sticking with my 172.5's....whats the advantage?



I just built up a new set of wheels for my latest build - just need a lock ring for the rear disc...Easton rims with King hubs. Haven't got them on the road yet, but hoping they don't have issues. Pretty sure King is supplying the guts for Enve's carbon shells on their wheel sets...no issues in the first 1500 miles on my gravel grinder running G27's.

Claim is that the smaller cranks are actually more efficient, better for your knees, and reduce pedal strikes... idk if I buy it... I am pretty happy, with no knee pain, on my 170's

 

[coleAK]

I'm mainly a roadie, and so far sticking with my 172.5's....whats the advantage?



I just built up a new set of wheels for my latest build - just need a lock ring for the rear disc...Easton rims with King hubs. Haven't got them on the road yet, but hoping they don't have issues. Pretty sure King is supplying the guts for Enve's carbon shells on their wheel sets...no issues in the first 1500 miles on my gravel grinder running G27's.

A bunch of pro MTB riders are going to 165 and shorter, some even down to 145.

Hopetech put out a one pager.

https://www.hopetech.com/webtop/modules/_repository/1/documents/EVO_155_foot_position.pdf

 

[dbbowen]

Anyone getting on the shorter crank bandwagon?

For MTB I’ve always ridden 170 (5’8” 30” inseam), my 17YO son (5’9” 31” inseam) is also on 170’s. My 15YO daughter is on 165’s. Both kids races Enduro and endurance, we all ride everything from true DH, park, enduro, XC, to overnight bike touring. I’ve always been of the one quiver bike mindset (except for DH rigs). We are all on overbuilt trail/light enduro rigs: I’m on a Kona Process, son a Trance X, daughter Salsa Rustler.

I’ve ordered my daughter a set of the Hope tech 155’s and considering trying the atlas 165’s I take off her bike.

Ive been on 160s for quite a while on all my enduro bikes since they are low and i pedal strike a lot. Now that im on a low Enduro Ebike i want to try some even shorter cranks. You cant really tell much difference in the pedal stroke, but my pedal strikes signifigantly are less now.


Im kinda just waiting for 5dev to make shorter Shimano ebike cranks to order some, currently their shortest ones for the ebike are 160. Would love to try some 145s out

 

[coleAK]

Ive been on 160s for quite a while on all my enduro bikes since they are low and i pedal strike a lot. Now that im on a low Enduro Ebike i want to try some even shorter cranks. You cant really tell much difference in the pedal stroke, but my pedal strikes signifigantly are less now.


Im kinda just waiting for 5dev to make shorter Shimano ebike cranks to order some, currently their shortest ones for the ebike are 160. Would love to try some 145s out

Thanks, good to know. Did you go smaller on your chainring? The link above recommends 2 teeth per 1 cm shorter. I ordered the hope tech 155’s for my daughter. She pedal strikes often which has caused some pretty bad spills in races.

 

[dbbowen]

Thanks, good to know. Did you go smaller on your chainring? The link above recommends 2 teeth per 1 cm shorter. I ordered the hope tech 155’s for my daughter. She pedal strikes often which has caused some pretty bad spills in races.

Hahaha thats EXACTLY why i went shorter on mine. I ejected over the bars in 2 enduro races in a row on pedally sections during stages. I didnt know you were supposed to change the chainring size to be honest, I always just did chainring to what i wanted my final highest gear (smallest ring) to be.

On a normal pedal bike i ran a 32 tooth chain ring with 160mm cranks, but on my ebike i run 34 tooth to get some more gearing in my smallest tooth ring on my cassette to push into going down long descents. Ive gotten my ebike up to 36 mph on a paved service hill at the trails i normally ride. Depending on how old your daughter is, and how much leg strength shes got, experimenting with 30 or 32 tooth would be where i would personally start. The 30 tooth chain ring will make lower speed pedaling a lot easier but shell lose out on some over all top speed in the smaller cassette cogs. 32 or 34 will have her have more to push into in the small cogs but her biggest ring will be harder as well. 1x drivetrains are nice because you can just move your powerband up or down linearly and not have to worry about a second or third chainring

My buddy runs a 34 tooth on 160mm cranks on a heavy enduro bike, but hes certain that his deadlifts in the gym are making up for it hahahaha

 

[coleAK]

Hahaha thats EXACTLY why i went shorter on mine. I ejected over the bars in 2 enduro races in a row on pedally sections during stages. I didnt know you were supposed to change the chainring size to be honest, I always just did chainring to what i wanted my final highest gear (smallest ring) to be.

On a normal pedal bike i ran a 32 tooth chain ring with 160mm cranks, but on my ebike i run 34 tooth to get some more gearing in my smallest tooth ring on my cassette to push into going down long descents. Ive gotten my ebike up to 36 mph on a paved service hill at the trails i normally ride. Depending on how old your daughter is, and how much leg strength shes got, experimenting with 30 or 32 tooth would be where i would personally start. The 30 tooth chain ring will make lower speed pedaling a lot easier but shell lose out on some over all top speed in the smaller cassette cogs. 32 or 34 will have her have more to push into in the small cogs but her biggest ring will be harder as well. 1x drivetrains are nice because you can just move your powerband up or down linearly and not have to worry about a second or third chainring

My buddy runs a 34 tooth on 160mm cranks on a heavy enduro bike, but hes certain that his deadlifts in the gym are making up for it hahahaha

She is 15 and very strong. She is on a 32 with the 165 Atlas (and an 10-51 cassette) and ordered a 32 for the 155’s. I asked her and she said never felt like she was under gear ratio’ed which an agree with watching her ride.

 

[dbbowen]

She is 15 and very strong. She is on a 32 with the 165 Atlas (and an 10-51 cassette) and ordered a 32 for the 155’s. I asked her and she said never felt like she was under gear ratio’ed which an agree with watching her ride.

Man i wish i started riding at 15 hah! I think that should be plenty for her tbh after tryin 30, 32,34,36 and ovals for non ebikes 32 always seemed like the sweet spot for me. post up how she likes the shorter cranks!