post 2003 nav delete how to. (3 Viewers)

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I am going to use the Kenwood DNX995S and was wondering if someone can verify wiring before I start cutting. I am using aftermarket amps and speakers.

I am running RCA's so no need to use speaker wiring.

It looks like there is a Toyota R36 plug which went to the old Nav system that I will need to splice into wires based on this diagram from the Kenwood radio that I am trying to match up correctly.

Park Sw (light green) goes to ground (unofficially)
Ignition (red) goes to harness point (11 gray) ACC+
Battery (yellow) goes to harness point (1-blue/yellow) +B
Ground (black) goes to chassis ground

skip the cam controls... that is a Kenwood control option

Reverse trigger (purple/white) goes to ????? (calls for reverse lamp harness but I have not located wire yet)
P. Cont (blue/white) goes to new Amp remote on
Remote Steering Input (light blue/yellow) will wire into ASWC unit
ILLUMI (orange/white) goes to harness point (2-green) Illum+
ANT CONT (blue) goes to (13-black/red) ANT+




So still trying to find a wire for the reverse cam on trigger.


kenwoodwiring.jpg
2003-plus-wiring-with-Nav.png
 
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I got you on this. Reverse trigger can be found a few places, I pulled mine from a red and black wire at the drivers kick panel. I did not use the illumination wire.

Looks like you’ve got the others.
 
I have a post in an older thread showing what wires I tapped for my install. I’ll try to find it.
 
I am looking at all this, and beginning to think this project is way beyond of my skill level. How much do you think someone competent who might be willing to read this thread would charge for the install in a 2005 LC?

By the way, planning to order either:

Kenwood Excelon DNX996XR or Excelon DMX906S (the former has Garmin GPS/DVD; the latter doesn't; both have wireless Android Auto)

P.S. Crutchfield says neither is compatible with the LC even if you pick "without GPS" option. What harness will work with a Kenwood setup?
 
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With Jerry’s harness it is plug and play. You cannot put it together wrong. If you’re near Utah, I’d be willing to help. The biggest issue is the lack of space behind the center stack for all the wiring.

You don’t use a traditional vehicle harness adaptor with this swap. I only plucked three wires out of the existing harness from the stereo. Constant power, ACC power, and antenna. I wired the antenna to an independent switch so it won’t come on al the time.

From there, I bypassed the amp (removed it and ran new wires from the output end to the center stack) and hooked them direct to the stereo.
 
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If you don't want to splice for a few of the connections you can use metra 70-8113 and not use the RCAs. this is what i'm doing
to use the aswc-1 you need the metra 70-8114 or you can splice.
 
I am going to use the Kenwood DNX995S and was wondering if someone can verify wiring before I start cutting. I am using aftermarket amps and speakers.

I am running RCA's so no need to use speaker wiring.

It looks like there is a Toyota R36 plug which went to the old Nav system that I will need to splice into wires based on this diagram from the Kenwood radio that I am trying to match up correctly.

Park Sw (light green) goes to ground (unofficially)
Ignition (red) goes to harness point (11 gray) ACC+
Battery (yellow) goes to harness point (1-blue/yellow) +B
Ground (black) goes to chassis ground

skip the cam controls... that is a Kenwood control option

Reverse trigger (purple/white) goes to ????? (calls for reverse lamp harness but I have not located wire yet)
P. Cont (blue/white) goes to new Amp remote on
Remote Steering Input (light blue/yellow) will wire into ASWC unit
ILLUMI (orange/white) goes to harness point (2-green) Illum+
ANT CONT (blue) goes to (13-black/red) ANT+




So still trying to find a wire for the reverse cam on trigger.

The reverse wire under the passenger seat can be found in pin 27 of the T21 connector of the TV camera ECU. It is a red-black wire.
 
I am looking at all this, and beginning to think this project is way beyond of my skill level. How much do you think someone competent who might be willing to read this thread would charge for the install in a 2005 LC?

By the way, planning to order either:

Kenwood Excelon DNX996XR or Excelon DMX906S (the former has Garmin GPS/DVD; the latter doesn't; both have wireless Android Auto)

P.S. Crutchfield says neither is compatible with the LC even if you pick "without GPS" option. What harness will work with a Kenwood setup?

I elected to have my conversation done by a high-end car audio shop in San Diego. I spent $550 in labor all in. That included the new Kenwood DDX9906XR install , steering wheel controls, and converting the rear camera to 12 volts. They had questions along the way and it was this thread that served as a reference to get everything working properly. I just didn’t have the time or interest to attempt this myself.
 
This just arrived 5590260110.. I purchased it because I thought the one I sold @Dparo was missing the small pins. He found the pins so I’m selling this for $164.00 plus shipping
This one also has the pins which are marked by the arrows.

F4DF1592-347B-4D45-9800-3C8E4819D65E.jpeg


FB29FD99-CB48-4942-A950-129A44DC1293.jpeg


B4C07B82-E831-43BE-A10C-023195991127.jpeg


8913F000-DAF0-4CBE-B8F7-B9EEA9967A9D.jpeg
 
Ok, everything works now trying to stuff it back in the dash.

A couple of notes...

I haven’t been able to find the non-changer console tub so if anyone has one I will buy theirs. I may see if there is a CB that will fit there.

If you remove the rear seat audio controls there is a snap in blank you can get. I found mine on partsouq mine was gray so this is that number 55549-60030-B2.

The ASWC-1 gets hooked up like this for a Kenwood deck.

ASWC red wire to ACC

ASWC black to ground and pin 6 on 20 pin Toyota harness (ground both)

ASWC green/orange to pin 7

ASWC black/green to pin 8

The male 3.5mm jack will go to the female jack included that has two wires, then the solid brown goes to your steering wheel input wire on the new radio harness.

Hope that helps another Kenwood user.
 
Spliced the wires behind the gauges today. At what point will the display indicate that its working correctly? Do I have to drive it for a bit or should it light up and have the mode butting functioning right away?

im Thinking if the calculations are done in the displays computer then it has no data to use so it would be blank. I have the wheel off doing my clock spring and I’m heading to work. Just curious what to plan for tomorrow.
 
I've had them come on once the instrument panel is seated and the key is on. That's doing it without disconnecting the battery and the key is usually in the slot on ACC because I'v needed to turn the steering wheel to get the instrument panel back in.
You will see blank dashes until it's fully seated in the four connectors and the battery connected and the key is on.
IF all the gauge needles and lights work on the instrument panel, the security light blinks and there is an outside temp reading on the display and you still have dashes where the calculations should be then the wires are crossed or spliced wring, or not 100%.

As far as installing the panel, I don't think I've ever got it on the first try.
the best advice for seating the instrument panel is first, make sure the four connectors are seated with their clips holding the female sides to the retaining slots on the car.
Then line up and push the instrument panel in there. Careful to not mis align the male pinned side on the back.
Turn the screws a little until a bit tight, push the panel some more, gauges and lights will start blinking and the door chime. Screw some more, push some more until is feels seated and screw in until somewhat tight, but not tight enough to break free/ break over. If you go too far and then the screw gets easier to turn just screw it some more until tight. Do it a few times and you'll understand.

with the steering wheel off it should be easier to line up.
 
Yep, it no workie. I’m not going to pull the dash apart again though. I used t-taps and stripped the wire before inserting them so I know I’ve got a connection. They must just be backwards. I’m going to pull the stereo one last time to add my rcas and I’ll just swap the wires there. I’ll probably add them to a little harness I have so unplug separate from the rest of the setup.
 
that's what I would do, and if it doesn't fix it then recount the positions.

C16 connector points..jpg
 
If you remove the rear seat audio controls there is a snap in blank you can get. I found mine on partsouq mine was gray so this is that number 55549-60030-B2.

Has anyone instead found a good way to use that spot for something more productive? The thought that comes to mind is usb plugs either for just power or possibly even one that connects to the back of the new deck, especially if the deck has more than one USB port on the back (since I presume the best spot for a direct usb connection would be somewhere near the driver and center console, not the rear seats).
 
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