68 ohm resistor to replace stereo on NAV equipped LC and LX (4 Viewers)

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krove, I don't remember if you have LX with ML, or LC
 
yes I dont know why it wouldn't. but you can't separate the ML for LX deck and amp. You'd have to replace both.

My ML amp is starting to go out and read many of your threads. My plan was to change out the amp and install an alpine deck somewhere hidden. Is there a metra adapter i need for the install?
 
lol, is there an APP for that? Maybe.
I hate those metra adapters. But honestly, I don't know. I wouldn't use one. I think of it as adding another failure point.
If you install a different amp you'd only want four channels and the sub wires. installing a deck, is ground, acc, battery+, antenna trigger, and amp trigger, a short ground from amp to passenger front rail and a power wire to battery with a fuse holder.
Glove box would work fine, center console works to. The back up cam will still work fine also. I'm working so some things might slip my mind at the moment.
 
lol, is there an APP for that? Maybe.
I hate those metra adapters. But honestly, I don't know. I wouldn't use one. I think of it as adding another failure point.
If you install a different amp you'd only want four channels and the sub wires. installing a deck, is ground, acc, battery+, antenna trigger, and amp trigger, a short ground from amp to passenger front rail and a power wire to battery with a fuse holder.
Glove box would work fine, center console works to. The back up cam will still work fine also. I'm working so some things might slip my mind at the moment.

Ok so it seems i could prob do this without cutting my stock harness thats what i wanted to avoid. Ill keep reviewing all your posts.
 
you'd need an amp plug and one for the nav also to pick up the drivers door pair. If you find the right one for a LX with ML stereo post it up.
 
so on an LC you can keep the radio and use it with a different amp, not so with ML LX
your front speakers may be just a broken wire in the door jamb. Test the speakers at the door, and then test at the amp, or at the nav ecu plugs for the drivers front door.
I think I would hook up a nine volt battery on the connector at the amp, or in case of the drivers door, after the nav ecu. Then I'd go to the door and open and close it and listen for the pop. If that happens then it's a wire break in the door.
Either way the pass seat has to come out.

the outputs are low level, I believe they are lower than regular low level outs, maybe 1 volt. I've hooked up different amps in both high and low level set ups from the pioneer deck (stock LC JBL) What you get is garbage. Either way. Knowing what i learned i would have started out with something like a JL clean sweep. or any other signal processor to clean it up and justt add a cheap amp until the time i figured out how to take it all out. That's what I should have done, but didn't.


-keep the deck and clean up the signal to install an aftermarket amp. or
-ditch the deck and bypass the amp using only the new decks power. or
- install new deck and new amp.

you can measure the space where the sock amp is, it's pretty small. Remember though that the drivers door audio comes from the nav ecu. installing a new amp means the stock nav voice will be gone. So there isn't a reason to keep the nav ecu, unless you want to look at the map.
The screen then is just there for the backup cam and ac heat control.

This is just my experience with my LC, there are smarter stereo people on here that know more than i do about stereo installs for sure. I know just enough to get by and waste a few hundred dollars in the process.
 
So I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this, and have yanked the passenger seat out and have the dash all apart. Got my resistor in and everything it great, just trying to sort out the wiring.

I have found a lot of info, like the driver door speaker wire pair, the wire routing and what not, but I can’t seem to find a definitive answer as to what each harness has in it. Would you be able to help jerryb?

Looking at the harnesses from the amp, the larger harness (A) is the output right? Also, that same amp was powering the sub in the back too, and the larger wires on the harness are the sub wires? I believe I also see two that break off and go into the nav ecu, but those are just to send the voice command prompts through the driver side speaker right? Does that get capped, I’ve read your post where you say to pick them up at the dash but I’m not sure how to find them.
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I know that once I figure out what they are I can just wire straight to them. There should be a ground and power and remote wire in that harness as well that I can just cap off too..?

Next the A B C harnesses at the dash.

I can see the power, ground, and memory wires on two (C and A) of the harnesses. Which one do I want to snip and use for my new deck? Is the smaller harness ( B ) the speaker output to the amp ? I found a very thorough diagram through a search on here, but the year range on t was a few shy of my 2005, and the harness and wire colors didn’t match up.

Ahh, I just realized I can trace the 6 disk wiring up to the deck and eliminate all that... crap. Well, do you have any feedback or advice?
 
So I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this, and have yanked the passenger seat out and have the dash all apart. Got my resistor in and everything it great, just trying to sort out the wiring.

I have found a lot of info, like the driver door speaker wire pair, the wire routing and what not, but I can’t seem to find a definitive answer as to what each harness has in it. Would you be able to help jerryb?

Looking at the harnesses from the amp, the larger harness (A) is the output right? Also, that same amp was powering the sub in the back too, and the larger wires on the harness are the sub wires? I believe I also see two that break off and go into the nav ecu, but those are just to send the voice command prompts through the driver side speaker right? Does that get capped, I’ve read your post where you say to pick them up at the dash but I’m not sure how to find them. View attachment 1790571 View attachment 1790572 I know that once I figure out what they are I can just wire straight to them. There should be a ground and power and remote wire in that harness as well that I can just cap off too..?

Next the A B C harnesses at the dash.

I can see the power, ground, and memory wires on two (C and A) of the harnesses. Which one do I want to snip and use for my new deck? Is the smaller harness ( B ) the speaker output to the amp ? I found a very thorough diagram through a search on here, but the year range on t was a few shy of my 2005, and the harness and wire colors didn’t match up.

Ahh, I just realized I can trace the 6 disk wiring up to the deck and eliminate all that... crap. Well, do you have any feedback or advice?

Would be great if you can post a thread when you figured it out for us 2005's. Ive been wanting to do this but lack concise info for our year.
 
you know. I've posted all the stereo, AC, nav, Illumination, television ECU and on and on for lots of years. A 30 dollar book will get everyone a very long way.
.. speaker wires are 18 gauge, crosslink or data wires are 22 gauge. Close to that at least.
input and output are not limited to stand alone connectors. There will in and out on any or all of the connectors in any component.
the drivers door speaker set needs to be picked up right after the nav ecu connector. purple and pink I believe. the other three sets from one or the other, or mixed, amp connectors. the sub wires are blue plus XXX. look at your sub and those four colors match the colors on one or the other amp connectors. IF you're putting another amp in,Then none of the sub wires matters at all and you can ignore it because we all should run other wires. IF you want to maintain a dual voice coil 6" then follow the wires and use them. either way it's fine.
I'm not going to get into which wires from the R plugs to use for stereo wiring. Keep your deck on the battery and ACC wires from the R plugs so It stays on the same fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
Don't use the ground on the R plugs for a new deck. You need ACC, battery + and I guess antenna power. Run the ground to the console below the shifter or somewhere.
I like a reverse trigger from teh television ECU, I don't use a parking brake signal or an illumination wire. I like the voilet speed wire from the M connectors, M5 I believe. also there is one in the A47 connector. toyota voilet looks tan colored.
Sorry If I sound pissed. I'm not. Just busy.
 
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I know how it feels to put information out there and have others not find it. That’s why I went digging after I couldn’t come up with that I needed.

Thanks for all you have done! Time to cut some harnesses.
 
you know. I've posted all the stereo, AC, nav, Illumination, television ECU and on and on for lots of years. A 30 dollar book will get everyone a very long way.
.. speaker wires are 22 or 20 gauge, crosslink or data wires are 24 gauge.
input and output are not limited to stand alone connectors. There will in and out on any or all of the connectors in any component.
the drivers door speaker set needs to be picked up right after the nav ecu connector. purple and pink I believe. the other three sets from one or the other, or mixed, amp connectors. the sub wires are blue plus XXX. look at your sub and those four colors match the colors on one or the other amp connectors. IF you're putting another amp in,Then none of the sub wires matters at all and you can ignore it because we all should run other wires. IF you want to maintain a dual voice coil 6" then follow the wires and use them. either way it's fine.
I'm not going to get into which wires from the R plugs to use for stereo wiring. Keep your deck on the battery and ACC wires from the R plugs so It stays on the same fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
Don't use the ground on the R plugs for a new deck. You need ACC, battery + and I guess antenna power. Run the ground to the console below the shifter or somewhere.
I like a reverse trigger from teh television ECU, I don't use a parking brake signal or an illumination wire. I like the voilet speed wire from the M connectors, M5 I believe. also there is one in the A47 connector. toyota voilet looks tan colored.
Sorry If I sound pissed. I"m busy

I would buy this 30 dollar book.
 
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2007 LX for the uninspired
 

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I can confirm, wiring posted earlier is correct. New deck powers on and off with key. My deck doesn’t have an antenna wire, but when connected to the remote wire of the deck the power antenna pops up.

These are the three you cut and splice to your new decks factory harness. Blue on left goes to yellow deck wire (memory is what I’ve always called it)

Gray in the middle to red acc deck wire.

On the right is the antenna wire.

Ground from the new deck goes to chassis in the shifter area.

tlcfaq.com has the diagrams for the Lexus version as well. This example is for a 2005 LC.
 
Jerry, I am going to do the "resistor fix" to install a single DIN basic kenwood deck until I can pay for the non-NAV version upgrade later.

Couple of questions just to confirm the approach (I have a 2004 LC):
- Do you know the wiring specifics for the resistor for the 04 LC? Is it the same as you described for the LX?
- Sounds like I remove the stock deck, amp, and nav computer and sell them on eBay. The NAV display is just annoying now anyway. So on the NAV display I just use the backup cam and the soft touchscreen controls correct?
- I need an adaptor to use the steering wheel volume and track controls
- I need a tundra fixed antenna
- The backseat audio controls won't work but can pop in a USB charger or something else there.
- I remove the 6 disk CD changer and sell it on eBay (or pay someone to take it)

That sound about right?

Will gladly send you a couple growlers of your favorite beer for the $$$ and pain you've saved me by reading these threads tonight. My audio system installer was about to charge me a couple hundred $ to move the stock deck to the center console to keep everything running.
 
- Do you know the wiring specifics for the resistor for the 04 LC? There is no polarity so either way on the Tx lines is fine in that connector.

Is it the same as you described for the LX?
YES
- Sounds like I remove the stock deck, amp, and nav computer (under the seat) and sell them on eBay. YES run new speaker sets to the deck if you're going that way, or new RCAs for a new amp.

The NAV display is just annoying now anyway. So on the NAV display I just use the backup cam and the soft touchscreen controls correct?
YES

- I need an adaptor to use the steering wheel volume and track controls.
YES
- I need a tundra fixed antenna YES or NO, if you wire the new deck power ant wire then it won't matter, the regular power ant will work normally.

- The backseat audio controls won't work but can pop in a USB charger or something else there.
YES
- I remove the 6 disk CD changer and sell it on eBay (or pay someone to take it) YES

That sound about right? YES
 
Maybe I missed it in another thread, but is it possible to swap in a single DIN unit (using the 68 ohm trick), but keep the factory amp? I just want a better head unit, but he output I have currently is fine for me and prefer to avoid rewiring a new amp if possible. From the wiring diagrams above (from brownfox - thanks!) it would seem I could use R36 with a metra adapter and just wire the new head unit to the correct outputs to drive the factory amp?

I have a 2002 LC with the POS factory nav. I ordered Pioneer AVH-3500NEX DVD receiver at Crutchfield and am starting to plan my attack :)
 
Maybe I missed it in another thread, but is it possible to swap in a single DIN unit (using the 68 ohm trick), but keep the factory amp? I just want a better head unit, but he output I have currently is fine for me and prefer to avoid rewiring a new amp if possible. From the wiring diagrams above (from brownfox - thanks!) it would seem I could use R36 with a metra adapter and just wire the new head unit to the correct outputs to drive the factory amp?

I have a 2002 LC with the POS factory nav. I ordered Pioneer AVH-3500NEX DVD receiver at Crutchfield and am starting to plan my attack :)
I don't see why Metra 70-8113 would not work. I know that all the connection I used it for, it worked without a hitch, but I didn't use the RCAs, as I bypassed the amp.
 

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