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yes I dont know why it wouldn't. but you can't separate the ML for LX deck and amp. You'd have to replace both.
lol, is there an APP for that? Maybe.
I hate those metra adapters. But honestly, I don't know. I wouldn't use one. I think of it as adding another failure point.
If you install a different amp you'd only want four channels and the sub wires. installing a deck, is ground, acc, battery+, antenna trigger, and amp trigger, a short ground from amp to passenger front rail and a power wire to battery with a fuse holder.
Glove box would work fine, center console works to. The back up cam will still work fine also. I'm working so some things might slip my mind at the moment.
Mine is a 2007 LC with Nav.krove, I don't remember if you have LX with ML, or LC
So I’ve been doing a lot of reading on this, and have yanked the passenger seat out and have the dash all apart. Got my resistor in and everything it great, just trying to sort out the wiring.
I have found a lot of info, like the driver door speaker wire pair, the wire routing and what not, but I can’t seem to find a definitive answer as to what each harness has in it. Would you be able to help jerryb?
Looking at the harnesses from the amp, the larger harness (A) is the output right? Also, that same amp was powering the sub in the back too, and the larger wires on the harness are the sub wires? I believe I also see two that break off and go into the nav ecu, but those are just to send the voice command prompts through the driver side speaker right? Does that get capped, I’ve read your post where you say to pick them up at the dash but I’m not sure how to find them. View attachment 1790571 View attachment 1790572 I know that once I figure out what they are I can just wire straight to them. There should be a ground and power and remote wire in that harness as well that I can just cap off too..?
Next the A B C harnesses at the dash.
I can see the power, ground, and memory wires on two (C and A) of the harnesses. Which one do I want to snip and use for my new deck? Is the smaller harness ( B ) the speaker output to the amp ? I found a very thorough diagram through a search on here, but the year range on t was a few shy of my 2005, and the harness and wire colors didn’t match up.
Ahh, I just realized I can trace the 6 disk wiring up to the deck and eliminate all that... crap. Well, do you have any feedback or advice?
you know. I've posted all the stereo, AC, nav, Illumination, television ECU and on and on for lots of years. A 30 dollar book will get everyone a very long way.
.. speaker wires are 22 or 20 gauge, crosslink or data wires are 24 gauge.
input and output are not limited to stand alone connectors. There will in and out on any or all of the connectors in any component.
the drivers door speaker set needs to be picked up right after the nav ecu connector. purple and pink I believe. the other three sets from one or the other, or mixed, amp connectors. the sub wires are blue plus XXX. look at your sub and those four colors match the colors on one or the other amp connectors. IF you're putting another amp in,Then none of the sub wires matters at all and you can ignore it because we all should run other wires. IF you want to maintain a dual voice coil 6" then follow the wires and use them. either way it's fine.
I'm not going to get into which wires from the R plugs to use for stereo wiring. Keep your deck on the battery and ACC wires from the R plugs so It stays on the same fuse in the engine bay fuse box.
Don't use the ground on the R plugs for a new deck. You need ACC, battery + and I guess antenna power. Run the ground to the console below the shifter or somewhere.
I like a reverse trigger from teh television ECU, I don't use a parking brake signal or an illumination wire. I like the voilet speed wire from the M connectors, M5 I believe. also there is one in the A47 connector. toyota voilet looks tan colored.
Sorry If I sound pissed. I"m busy
I don't see why Metra 70-8113 would not work. I know that all the connection I used it for, it worked without a hitch, but I didn't use the RCAs, as I bypassed the amp.Maybe I missed it in another thread, but is it possible to swap in a single DIN unit (using the 68 ohm trick), but keep the factory amp? I just want a better head unit, but he output I have currently is fine for me and prefer to avoid rewiring a new amp if possible. From the wiring diagrams above (from brownfox - thanks!) it would seem I could use R36 with a metra adapter and just wire the new head unit to the correct outputs to drive the factory amp?
I have a 2002 LC with the POS factory nav. I ordered Pioneer AVH-3500NEX DVD receiver at Crutchfield and am starting to plan my attack