post 2003 nav delete how to. (1 Viewer)

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Good people are cool.
 
Has anyone successfully used one of these to retain some functionality of steering wheel controls? My head unit is going to be the Kenwood DNX995S.

 
The iDatalink would be cool if there were more functionality for our trucks. It seems that you'd be spending $90 more than you need to if you went with that. The ASWC 1 is only $50 and will do the same thing. I've had trouble with mine but that's more my headunit(Pioneer) than the ASWC 1. Others that have installed it say it works flawlessly.
 
No reason to keep NAV computer or park asst, correct?
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I'm going to finally to get started on this in about a week after the last of my parts come in. Let me make sure I've got a handle on everything I need to do. Anyone with some experience chime in with recommendations or problems you foresee. Mine is a 2007 LC with nav. I already have jerryb's parts list, and I know the 2007 has a different part for one of the HVAC boards than many other years:

Scope of work: my audio system is faulty - intermittently cutting out front speakers. Since I haven't found an easy solution and since I'll have the dash all torn up anyway, I'm replacing EVERYTHING:
- remove nav system
- replace amp
- remove cd changer in center console
- remove DVD player in back (I plan on leaving the flip-down screen at least for now only because it's not doing any harm)
- replace head unit
- remove the touch screen, convert to non-nav dash with separate AC controls, etc (the bulk of this thread)

New system:
- head unit - Alpine ILX-W650 (chosen partly because of the extra space it has behind the mount)
- amp - Infinity Reference 4555a 5-channel amp
- steering wheel adaptor - Axxess ASWC-1
- backup camera - will try to get the factory camera to work (I know there's a thread around somewhere for that). If not, I might buy the Alpine camera and try to figure that out.
- speakers - already replaced the 4 primary speakers with Alpine and just found a subwoofer to fit the

Questions:
1) Where do the factory speaker wires terminate and what's the best location for the new amp to avoid running new speaker wires throughout the truck? My assumption is that the factory speaker wires terminate into a wire harness under the passenger seat where the current amp is located. I'm not sure how the nav system audio complicates this, but I've assumed I could find a matching wire harness to tie the existing harness to the planned Infinity amp, then run RCA patch cords from the new head unit to the new amp under the passenger seat.
2) Crutchfield says the ASWC-1 steering wheel adaptor does not work for the LC. I assume this is because Crutchfield strongly recommends against changing the head unit on the LC w/ nav for obvious reasons (see the previous >400 posts on this thread)
3) Any wiring harnesses or adaptors you can think of? I've got jerryb's harness for getting rid of the nav system and I know I need something for the Infinity amp... what am I missing?
4) Where do you foresee this going wrong? My project seems to be catching all the complications mentioned in this thread (at least for the LC, not the Lexus). Mine has the 2007 issue (different part), rear dvd, backup camera being retained, and I'm having to replace my amp (seems like most people were retaining theirs, or at least didn't mention the replacement).
 
My sound system will have everything replaced, even the speaker wires. I am also replacing the rear camera and adding a dash cam.
 
I don't think anyone that did this kept the stock amp.
Get the stock wires from the outputs of the stock amp. The front left comes from the NAV ecu. It's the bigger gauge purple and pink wires.
The ASCW works fine.
You don't need any other harnesses. Run RCAs to pass seat, along with a remote turn on, single rca for cam, and one ground, maybe a remote wire for an amp sub channel if needed. I put that in a bundle under the shifter.
OH and a reverse trigger and speed wire with all that also. Those last two just because its easier to do at the passenger seat than mess with the M plugs in the dash. Thats just me though. I only used the grey acc and the battery + wires from the R plugs in the dash. The antenna also if you retain the power antenna.

The Dimmer,,,, it's been reported that a single dimmer wire will work on kenwood with the green/white wire. I had read before that it wouldn't. I have not experimented with that. Also I have the fixed tundra antenna so I don't know the exact situation with that.
The harnesses make it work though so It's not a problem as far as up and down buttons by the hazard button.

voltage converter for the stock back up cam,,, mine worked for a little over a year before it broke, than I ran a regular 12v cam, kind of a pain.
The part number for replacement square plastic retainers is somewhere, maybe in this thread for the things that keep the stock cam bracket to the body (screw inserts). Then you have to glue/silicone the new cam. Maybe there is a better thing out there but all that was free for me so I went that way.
 
Dang, I didn’t hit reply on my answer. I was trying to shag some of this for jerry. I’m glad he answered though, I was getting ready to get my reverse trigger from the driver side kick panel, now I’m going to check the passenger seat for it.

I’m not bothering with the dimmer or speed wire. My pioneer has scheduled dimming with the clock, works for me. I may connect my trip calculator this weekend, but I don’t think it’s worth it. My tires are over 10% bigger than stock so it won’t be accurate.

I’m going to take a pic of where the single wire goes into the A47 harness for people to reference though.
 
I think that’s a wrap.

Everything looks to be working after terminating the three wires from @jerryb ’s harnesses.

Thank you’s to @jerryb @brownfox @Luke111 @dace voit for their help with parts and questions.

Now to figure out this ASWC and finish the install on the camera replacement and dash cam addition and speaker and amp replacements.

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good to see splices working on the first try. You're one of the few. Can you post a pic of your steering wheel, or tell what you have on it?
 
I’m debating doing the steering wheel controls adaptor. I’d really like to blank out the right panel but that little piece is expensive....
 
I never saw a brown one. The only info I got is that it was cheap on ebay. Fpund on 4 runner forums. Those guys upgrade to the phone on off button for the blank.

dparo, I was wondering about the leather or the cover in this pic.

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The brown below the heater controls?

That is the fake wood sticker that came from the dealership, likely coming off.
 
Hmm. I could have sworn the lighter color one I needed was like $48

I looked for a while for a brown blank. I ordered one with the correct color code and it still came to me in gray. It's low priority now. It will be interesting to see if anyone finds one.
 
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