Possible to add drain to oil filter (1 Viewer)

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I cut an access port to get to my oil filter without needing to remove the skid.

Is it possible to add a fumoto drain to the style of oil filter that I have here?

Dorman 917-016CD Oil Filter Cap - Aluminum Compatible with Select Lexus / Scion / Toyota Models Amazon.com - https://a.co/d/hfirJlP

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Why not use the tool included with every filter? When used correctly it easily drains the oil filter housing with no mess.
 
I’ve fiddled with that thing and have yet to get a flawless one-pass insert. So now I just back off the housing until it trickles and let it drain then back off the remainder.

Any tips on how to improve my connection process?
 
I’ve fiddled with that thing and have yet to get a flawless one-pass insert. So now I just back off the housing until it trickles and let it drain then back off the remainder.

Any tips on how to improve my connection process?
I know it's simplistic but perhaps practicing after the filter cap has been removed? I've heard some insert the piece into a 2 liter bottle to hold filter contents as it drains, others put a short piece of tubing down to their drain pan.
 
I saved one of the drain tools provided with the filter and squeezed on some plastic/clear tubing to route the oil into my drain pan. Works well and minimizes any spillage.
 
Why not use the tool included with every filter? When used correctly it easily drains the oil filter housing with no mess.
I purchased the tube thing…but I don’t see how it attaches. Is it under the cap within the cap?

Oil Filter Drain Tool for Toyota,... Amazon product ASIN B08QC9SGS5
 
I'd hesitate to add a valve there. If only because it would create a low point and be a liability off-road, even it it were behind skids.

I think the drain tool provided with every filter works well. Took some practice but have to be deliberate and firm as it can take some force to use. It's possible that working upside down with a creeper makes that harder to do.
 
I have one like @turbo8 suggested. It works fine. I have done one oils change where I got no spills or drips. Usually though I’m my own worst enemy and tip something over, or the wind kicks up and blows the last steam sideways, or some other random thing happens
Usually not more than a couple shop towels worth of mess.
I’d say the fancy release is not much more likely to be completely drip free than the plastic insert / hose would be, but that’s because like I say, I’m there to screw it up somewhere.
 
I have one like @turbo8 suggested. It works fine. I have done one oils change where I got no spills or drips. Usually though I’m my own worst enemy and tip something over, or the wind kicks up and blows the last steam sideways, or some other random thing happens
Usually not more than a couple shop towels worth of mess.
I’d say the fancy release is not much more likely to be completely drip free than the plastic insert / hose would be, but that’s because like I say, I’m there to screw it up somewhere.
This is my experience exactly. When everything goes perfectly I manage to get the tube from this and the tube from my Fumoto into the drain pan at the same time. Then removing the tubes and the filter housing cause a small mess and it all goes back together cleanish.
 
I’ve fiddled with that thing and have yet to get a flawless one-pass insert. So now I just back off the housing until it trickles and let it drain then back off the remainder.

Any tips on how to improve my connection process?
Put the o-ring onto the tool before insertion, then with even pressure on both sides of the tool snap it in, keeping hands/etc out from under it because oil does come out quickly once inserted.

The screw-in tools with hose drain much more slowly and add considerably to the clean-up job if you don’t want the hose slowly seeping all over wherever you store it. I’ve only once had issue with the provided tool, when it wasn’t molded correctly and wouldn’t hold itself in all the way.
 
This one was more awkward than usual due to making room for the camera. I will usually get a drop or two coming out around the base of the tool over the full period it takes to drain but nothing to write home about.

Once it is done draining I use a dull flat-blade screwdriver into the hole to pry it out, then the whole thing gets tossed with the oil filter. Wiping down the screwdriver is the extent of the cleanup.

 
I don't think it works with that particular filter cap. It appears as though the bottom indentation is for a ratchet drive to remove it.
I should probably order a different one in that case.

Is there a metal oem or just a metal one that has the valve in the bottom of it? Or is it just the plastic ones?
 
I should probably order a different one in that case.

Is there a metal oem or just a metal one that has the valve in the bottom of it? Or is it just the plastic ones?
Yours looks like the metal part from a Venza that is a common upgrade from the stock plastic part.
 
I use the Motiv tool that @turbo8 posted. It works well and is easy to use, screw into the filter housing then turn the thumbscrew in, no tools necessary. I happened to be doing an oil change today and a friend had asked for a pic of it.
IMG_2718.jpg
 
I purchased the tube thing…but I don’t see how it attaches. Is it under the cap within the cap?

Oil Filter Drain Tool for Toyota,... Amazon product ASIN B08QC9SGS5

A bunch of companies make these screw in drains.

View attachment 3073386

I use the Motiv tool that @turbo8 posted. It works well and is easy to use, screw into the filter housing then turn the thumbscrew in, no tools necessary. I happened to be doing an oil change today and a friend had asked for a pic of it.
View attachment 3073500

Even though I never had a problem with the original plastic tool that comes with the filter, I got one of these and it's definitely easier and less chance of a mess. @highfructose are you looking for something to leave there permanently? You'd still have to remove it in order to remove the filter housing.
 
Even though I never had a problem with the original plastic tool that comes with the filter, I got one of these and it's definitely easier and less chance of a mess. @highfructose are you looking for something to leave there permanently? You'd still have to remove it in order to remove the filter housing.
I’m fine w Toyota’s oem oil drain setup on the oil filter cap…just want it to be metal if possible so I don’t crack a plastic one one day.

At this point, I’m trying to make sure my metal dorman one has the valve underneath the cover so I can put the little brass oil filter tube thing into it…I need to take off the cover plate and check.

If there’s no little valve under the cover plate of my dorman unit (from my original post), I think the following is an oem metal oil filter cap that will have the little valve that I can hook the brass oil filter cap drain tube tool to

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly https://a.co/d/ciK6zas
 
I’m fine w Toyota’s oem oil drain setup on the oil filter cap…just want it to be metal if possible so I don’t crack a plastic one one day.

At this point, I’m trying to make sure my metal dorman one has the valve underneath the cover so I can put the little brass oil filter tube thing into it…I need to take off the cover plate and check.

If there’s no little valve under the cover plate of my dorman unit (from my original post), I think the following is an oem metal oil filter cap that will have the little valve that I can hook the brass oil filter cap drain tube tool to

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly https://a.co/d/ciK6zas
When you remove the round part with the square indentation, there is a check valve behind it. This stays closed/sealed until you insert the plastic tool from my video or screw the second part of the hose tools up. Once that opens oil can drain out. The round plug is there to prevent the internal valve from deploying while driving, thereby draining all of your oil onto the ground.

The dorman appears to be exactly like a Genuine Toyota metal cap only they cast a couple extra torque specs into the cover. Cheap copies of other stuff is Dorman’s entire business model. The good thing is as long as that round plug stays in place and torqued to spec even if the more complex part (the valve) isn’t perfect you don’t lose all your oil.
 

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