Yes, happened around 200k miles. The warning light would come on and I'd lose 90% brakes until I could pump the brake pedal to get any pressure. Very scary.
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (3 Viewers)
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My 06 LX470 has 213K. I got it at 198K and the brake booster and assembly looked new but don't have any paperwork to back it up. Brakes are workin g great now, I just put Extreme PS rear rotor and brakes and fronts will be on asap.
100ZFG
SILVER Star
Finally got the 47050-60010 in from Sparks Toyota installed this weekend and even soldered the mouse chewed wires and plugged them into the connector. No more ABS light! Many thanks to @obe12 for the pinout and pictures of the wires, to @2001LC for all his information on this topic and to @ranma21 for trying to assist with ordering the parts.
I tried to bench bleed the MC but was only able to get fluid out of one port. Gave up and installed in the truck. Adjusted the clevis without removing any dash panels, not sure why the FSM shows this but with some auto-yoga it was done. On to bleeding the FL line first, I have Techstream v16.x running but for some reason it only show options to air bleed FR and FL lines, not RL & RR. After 2 seconds, it says it failed. I tried this on the FR, some fluid comes out but again, Techstream fails after 2 seconds.
Guess I'll take it to the dealership and have them bleed. Well, they only offer a flush and bleed so...
I tried to bench bleed the MC but was only able to get fluid out of one port. Gave up and installed in the truck. Adjusted the clevis without removing any dash panels, not sure why the FSM shows this but with some auto-yoga it was done. On to bleeding the FL line first, I have Techstream v16.x running but for some reason it only show options to air bleed FR and FL lines, not RL & RR. After 2 seconds, it says it failed. I tried this on the FR, some fluid comes out but again, Techstream fails after 2 seconds.
Guess I'll take it to the dealership and have them bleed. Well, they only offer a flush and bleed so...
Techstream did that to me too, but I kept repeating it and it worked. Also, my 98 only has ABS on the front, so that's why techstream would only do the ABS on the front. I'm two hundred miles east and north of you.
100ZFG
SILVER Star
Okay, I'll give it more attempts and see if I can get it to work.
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100ZFG
SILVER Star
Well, it worked and then it didn't... I had my 11yo son assist with manual bleeding of FL and FR lines until no bubbles. Did the rears manually. ABS and brake lights out and really good braking on the LC. BUT.
Went on a test drive, ABS and brake light came on. C1257 code is current. C1256 was erased and is no longer an issue.
This AM I found a gravel road, cleared the C1257 code and slammed on the brakes and ABS kicked in. Tried it from about 40mph, ABS kicked in then ABS and Brake light came on then full lock on brakes. Did this multiple times, clear C1257, slam brakes, sometimes ABS would work, but after 2 or 3 tests ABS/Brake light on and C1257 returns.
If I shut the vehicle off, then turn back on, ABS/Brake light turn off. Go down the street, sometimes ABS/Brake light turn on, sometimes it doesn't. Once it comes on, I have to turn off the truck and back on to remove them. Erasing the DTC doesn't turn off ABS/Brake lights, I have to shut vehicle off.
Any ideas?
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I have a 99 100s it failed at 257,000 miles. Just broke 300,000. I replaced the whole actuater with a rebuild for $1,200.00. Now the ABS alarm is screaming at me ant the accumulator is screeching. Has anyone ever replaced the ABS accumulater befor? I’m having a hell of a time getting info on it.
I've no doubt. A non replaceable seal in master. Is screeching at you.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
These so called rebuild master. Are simply, rebuilt motors. Best case, they have a rebuilt motor with new master plunger and accumulator.
I'd replace the whole brake master (brake booster with master), with new. It should last another 25 years or more. Provided properly care for.
BTW: Nothing called the ABS accumulater. Accumulator is the gold cylinder on right side of master. ABS unit is black box on other side of master.
2001LCI've no doubt. A non replaceable seal in master. Is screeching at you.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
These so called rebuild master. Are simply, rebuilt motors. Best case, they have a rebuilt motor with new master plunger and accumulator.
I'd replace the whole brake master (brake booster with master), with new. It should last another 25 years or more. Provided properly care for.
BTW: Nothing called the ABS accumulater. Accumulator is the gold cylinder on right side of master. ABS unit is black box on other side of master.
"I've no doubt. A non replaceable seal in master. Is screeching at you."
Thanks for quote and tracking this issue.
This is the main issue from my understanding from my very experienced shop. Have a pile of these broken brake units.
These are factory installed internal rubber seals with no access or replacement. Replacing parts is throwing money at wrong parts.
Replace OEM complete unit and read about install as noted above. The box is one of most impressive parts you will get from Toyota.
2001 LX470 replaced complete brake unit 280,000 after 1 year of ownership. Currentley 297,000 with new tires.
Toyota Australia want $4900 AUD which is about USD $3234 for full replacement and fitting !
I had to change my answer. I never lost brakes while driving but at 572,000 the screeching and lights came on in the driveway, not much warning but it was preceded by an incident where a shop but in non-Toyota brake fluid and over-filled the reservoir and it looks like it overflowed. So that definitely is something to look at for and avoid. Replaced the whole master cylinder and everything seems to be working great now.
Go to PartSouq and check after you put in your VIN, that will be the most accurate answer.
My 2003 appears to have really corroded connections on the abs box side. I haven’t been able to take off rubber on the other end of the wire. How hard is it to take everything out just to clean up the connections and redo them? I don’t want to mess with opening anything up other than redoing the electrical.
Not hard if you've good mechanical skills. You will need to remove the brake master to work on bench. You'll find the new OEM wire, screws and nuts are pricy. You'll very likely need to, very carefully drill old screws out, without any damage to components.
The corrosion on wires leads. Result in increase resistance to motor. This slows motors RPM and wears out commutator (resulting in dead motor)! If seals of master, aren't in great condition. Anything you do, to improve motor speed. May result in high pressure seal leak, resulting in pressure loss. Which motor than ends up running excessively long, to bring pressure up. Resulting in motor failing (loss of brakes).
Clue to seals health, is color of brake fluid nd staining of reservoir. The darker, the less chance of good seals.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Bottom line. For most is is better to bit the bullet (new master) now, and be done with it.
Oh god. My brake reservoir looks dark and stained… what’s this going to cost?Not hard if you've good mechanical skills. You will need to remove the brake master to work on bench. You'll find the new OEM wire, screws and nuts are pricy. You'll very likely need to, very carefully drill old screws out, without any damage to components.
The corrosion on wires leads. Result in increase resistance to motor. This slows motors RPM and wears out commutator (resulting in dead motor)! If seals of master, aren't in great condition. Anything you do, to improve motor speed. May result in high pressure seal leak, resulting in pressure loss. Which motor than ends up running excessively long, to bring pressure up. Resulting in motor failing (loss of brakes).
Clue to seals health, is color of brake fluid nd staining of reservoir. The darker, the less chance of good seals.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
Bottom line. For most is is better to bit the bullet (new master) now, and be done with it.
So if I fix the wiring and all of a sudden give the motor more juice, it might actually catalyze damage. So should I just leave it alone and do a motor run time test to assess the health?
Well I peeled back the rubber cover on the electric wires going to the MC and to my surprise they were shiny and new looking. Although the rest of the MC looks old. The rubber must have been seated well. Not anymore since I peeled it back.
Question, since the wiring on the MC is not corroded, but the other end that goes to the ABS module is very rusty, what are my risks and what can be done?
Question, since the wiring on the MC is not corroded, but the other end that goes to the ABS module is very rusty, what are my risks and what can be done?
No way to know. All I do know: Is when we see wires corrosion, commutator show excessive wear for age.
I'll post again and you're best served by studying and make you own decision.
forum.ih8mud.com
I'll post again and you're best served by studying and make you own decision.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Yes but in my case the wire corrosion is only seen on the ABS side, not the MC. Are these just power wires? If so, do they go to the MC first and then to the ABS? If so, then the commutator wouldn’t be affected as the MC is getting clean power through a clean cable, right? So only the ABS may fail due to low voltage due to corrosion, right?No way to know. All I do know: Is when we see wires corrosion, commutator show excessive wear for age.
I'll post again and you're best served by studying and make you own decision.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
I take it everyone is stumped with my logic.. Let's break it down:
-Does 12v power go to ABS module first, or the Master Cylinder?
-The ABS and MC are interconnected with that blue/red power wire. Depending on where power originates, only one of those two devices would be in trouble if the ABS side is corroded.
-Can the black ABS box detach from the MC to be serviced?
-Does 12v power go to ABS module first, or the Master Cylinder?
-The ABS and MC are interconnected with that blue/red power wire. Depending on where power originates, only one of those two devices would be in trouble if the ABS side is corroded.
-Can the black ABS box detach from the MC to be serviced?
