100ZFG
SILVER Star
I'm dealing with total failure of my brakes on the 99 LC as well as mice chewed the wires at the connector. Since you have a '99, any way you can take a pic of your ABS module plug showing the wire locations in the connector?
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (2 Viewers)
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Sure, if I do not get called into work in the morning I get that done in the morning.
If I get called. I get the pics after I get home and send them.
I have an oem diagram too.
I post that too.
Sorry for the rodents…
Tex
I've had good luck with the honesty of this dealership in the past so I'm hopeful that they use the right fluid. They did warn me ahead of time that it's $11 per quart for Toyota fluid so it seems that that is what they plan on using. They finished the job yesterday afternoon and I'll be picking it up today. I'll see what the actual bill looks like.
I purchased the LC out of central Florida in 2018 and I've done a good job of keeping the Fluid Film to it. The body is 100% rust free and the frame is just starting to show some surface rust on the low hanging bits. While the undercarriage looks cleaner than most 2 year old vehicles around here, I know it's only a matter of time before the rust sets in. It's currently showing 224k on the odometer and I'd like to get another 5 years out of it putting me roughly at 300k miles. From that point, I'll have to consider my options on a replacement vehicle.
Three connectors , I started with the back first worked forward in the pictures
My new booster arrived yesterday!
Toyota brake fluid current list is $7.90. But dealership can and will charge, over list.
Around here. Toyota has an, up-sale brake fluid. Which cost more than the Toyota bottles. It's, BG DOT 3 Ultra-Dry. I do like BG product like 44k, EPR, MOA & coolant flush. But with brake fluid I just use Toyota.
In two different Toyota dealership (one in Denver the other Southeastern USA. Both had to dust of the cases, as sat on the shelve for years.
I use solder heat-shrink butt splices. Many brands and sizes available. Also Toyota sells pig tail (wire with end that fits housing)
$2,375 later, I have brakes again. That does include an oil change with synthetic oil which adds $80 or so. Dropped it off Monday afternoon and picked it up Thursday afternoon. I definitely could have saved some money doing it myself but considering their quick turnaround and my lack of free time, I’m happy.
I experienced total failure on my 99 cruiser. Bought a new booster pump and accumulator from the dealership. After install the pump runs for 2 seconds, stops for 8 seconds, repeats this sequence indefinitely. Am I just not bleeding it properly or do I have to see if I can buy the rest of the ABS master cylinder system?
A 99 with brake failure, I'd bough and installed the whole assembly. Cost wouldn't have been much more and labor less
First would be to bleed properly. But, no way to know if you did/are, by a statement "Am I just not bleeding properly".
Doctor. Doctor I feel bad. Is because I'm sick!
Haha, right. I pump brakes until the pedal goes to the floor with the key in and off. Turn key to the on position without starting vehicle. This is when the pump runs on for 2 seconds, off for 8 seconds, repeat and repeat.A 99 with brake failure, I'd bough and installed the whole assembly. Cost wouldn't have been much more and labor less
First would be to bleed properly. But, no way to know if you did/are, by a statement "Am I just not bleeding properly".
Doctor. Doctor I feel bad. Is because I'm sick!
Just thinking out loud here,
Booster should run to build pressure and shut off
Now air maybe in the pump to accumulator the red line, did you happen to bleed this line?
Did you remove the entire booster from the truck?
Trying to remember how I did it on my 4runner…
Let’s start what alerted you to a problem? Brake to the floor? Alarm? No boost good pedal? Noisy pump?
Why just the booster / pump, accumulator replacement ?
I did not bleed the red line, I will try that tomorrow.
Yes, I removed the entire booster from the truck.
I never experienced a problem with physically braking, just one morning lights and alarms. Looked into it and the pump was not running at all with key on, but I could hear the solenoid or something clicking like it was trying to turn on. That and reading in these forums led me to replace the pump and accumulator.
I am kicking myself now for not just doing the whole thing.
By the way currently just driving in the driveway the brakes feel fine and stop the truck. The lights and alarm are all going off and the issue where the pump is continually turning on and off.
Ok, I have not checked the service manual,
There is a pressure switch that signals the pump to run. Could be an issue there…
Also possible air in the system. Hydraulics in general do not like air in the system.
The pump, pumps pressure against the accumulator to store pressure for when you apply the brake.
It should not cycle after the pressure builds up tho.
Only if it bleeds down, or hopefully air in the system, grasping at straws
As per your suggestion I purged air out of the red line. Pump now runs like it is supposed to, truck is back on the road!
Thank you so much for the insight
