My 2000 failed yesterday. I don’t hear the motor running. Also looks like one part of reservoir doesn’t have fluid. So, what failed first in this assembly?
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (2 Viewers)
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Use a Phillips head screwsdriver to undo the positive and negative leads to the ABS brake booster motor, under the round dust jacket, then connect 12v directly from the battery to see if you can hear the motor turn on.
If that works, check fuses and ABS relay.
If it doesn't turn on, the motor may have died - either the brushes or the commutator.
The motor itself is a pretty cheap part, under $200AUD from memory.
Just a bit painful to undo the two allen key bolts that hold it onto the pump with a LONG allen key.
Connect a scancode reader and see what codes, if any, are logged.
2001LC
SILVER Star
That chamber, "looking" empty, is fine. That is not indication of a failure.
The booster motor not running, is not good (no brake fluid pressure to assist).
With IG key OFF. Pump brake pedal 40 times. Turn IG key ON (do not start engine), with hood open. If no motor heard running, 95% chance motor has failed. 2% chance and electric fault in ABS (black box on side of master). 3% chance no power getting to master/ABS, due to electrical fault upstream.
The manul has a series of test. Which one is jumping the booster motor directly with 12 volts. A second is jumping through the ABS unit. These, can be done, in place. One needs to peel back, the boot to expose wires to booster motor at bottom of ABS unit. You MUST know which is, negative & positive. If motor works, a second test is done, making sure power gets through the ABS unit to leads at bottom/motor. Note: Sometimes motor runs intermittently.
My bet, motor failed. Which I'd then, 100% recommend replacing the whole brake master assembly.
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No. 2002 with 320000 mi.
But, all the lights came on yesterday-so maybe soon!
But, all the lights came on yesterday-so maybe soon!
Well, with a little help from the Mrs. decided it was best practice to replace the unit new gasket and all.
So, we haven't messed with bleeding it yet. Turns out the right front connector broke so I had to order one. I've been scouring MUD and looking at the FSM and am a little unclear about the correct way to bleed this without Techstream and the differences between bleeding a new one and one already in operation.
Just wrapped this up with my daughter. Here’s some notes so hopefully it will help someone else. We did not need to bench bleed this unit before installing it in the car. We did not need to bleed the tubes going into the master cylinder on the car. We pumped, the pedal 40 times with the key off and then turn the key on to prime. We did this a couple of times. But from the get-go the time to prime was always at about 30 seconds. Then we started the sequence so the passenger front, drivers front, passenger rear, & drivers rear priming in between and pumping the pedal and all seemed to go good. All in all we needed four cans of Toyota brake fluid. We topped off at the end with the 40 pumps which turned into 27 when the pedal fell to the floor. After starting car fluid went down about a quarter. Techstream not needed.
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2001LC
SILVER Star
With battery at ~12.5Volts. I get at ~28 seconds booster motor run time to charge accumulator, with new master. ~25 pumps on pedal.
I noticed the Toyota fluid seems more yellow than other brands I've used off the shelf. We just did a rear brake job last summer and the Harvest King Heavy Duty Dot 3 fluid that started clear looked a little more golden and dirty already. I've always wondered why that happens so quick. Why do they call so many of the Dot 3 fluids Heavy Duty?
I noticed the fluid changes color rapidly too. When I flushed my brake fluid, it appeared surprisingly yellowish and clear, but when I left it sitting in a poland spring bottle for a day, it became very dark, almost black. Oxidation?
how does one find Andy Le to inquire about a part?
Uzj100 Facebook group
I have been on there. Is he moderator? There isn't a member list on the one I see.
2001LC
SILVER Star
New Toyota brake master prices came down a few years ago. The whole brake master assembly runs $1,400 to $1,700. Installed they're ~$2,500.
Don't waste your money on supposed rebuilt, as there is no true remanufactured master.
Don't waste your money on supposed rebuilt, as there is no true remanufactured master.
Where should I look to buy new?
2001LC
SILVER Star
They had a 20% sale few weeks ago. No shipping and the best packer in the world. He'll (Eric) ship stuff must will not.
forum.ih8mud.com
Toyota sale, 25% off wholesale and free shipping WOW
forum.ih8mud.com
Join the UZJ100 FB group and search his name. Many posts will come up.
He rebuilt mine a few years ago and it's held up fine.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I'd not waste money on a rebuilt brake master.
There's seals, that to my knowledge. NO ONE has replaced in a rebuilt brake master. Additionally the same issue (improper brake fluid care) that damages these seals, can cause ABS unit (black box on side of brake master) issues. The seals in question and the ABS unit, are NOT sold by Toyota.
forum.ih8mud.com
Don't be confused. This is not the same as a rebuilt brake booster motor, which is attached to the brake master. The motor, can easily be rebuilt. Also the master plunger (seal kit) can be replaced. Toyota sales these and the pump and accumulator separately.
There's seals, that to my knowledge. NO ONE has replaced in a rebuilt brake master. Additionally the same issue (improper brake fluid care) that damages these seals, can cause ABS unit (black box on side of brake master) issues. The seals in question and the ABS unit, are NOT sold by Toyota.
Brakes ...... Overdue write-up.
First and foremost: Brakes should only be worked by those, with high level of mechanical abilities and experienced with brake systems. With the age of all 100 series today, in our aging fleet. Any issue, with brake master assembly. IMHO, best and safest course of action. Have the whole brake...
forum.ih8mud.com
Don't be confused. This is not the same as a rebuilt brake booster motor, which is attached to the brake master. The motor, can easily be rebuilt. Also the master plunger (seal kit) can be replaced. Toyota sales these and the pump and accumulator separately.
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I recently purchased a 2006 100 Series with 159,000 miles and a generally good maintenance history. While reviewing the previous owner’s records, I found a note stating that the brake pedal is soft but that this is normal for this vehicle. Are soft brake pedals common in 100 LCs? Is this characteristic typical for the Land Cruiser like the note says? or could soft brake pedals be a symptom of a potential brake issue?
Well here we go, soft to what is how to measure soft. In my 94 Landcruiser the pedal is lower to a hard pedal hardly can press any more compared to my 99 100. I have to look in the tech manual and see if there a pedal height measurement when brakes applied. There is a measurement on the 94.
But the easier way, flush the system new Toyota fluid and bleed system. Or compared to another 06 maybe if possible to define “soft” as to its standard. Yea, I don’t like spongy soft pedal feel and my 94 gives me that, my 99 100 doesn’t.
2006 I don’t know if there happens to have a change.
A method I use to test for air or fluid contamination, drum brake out of adjustment, something is quite not right,
One mash brake pedal to firmness. Let off pump three times, one mash again and compared places. Pedal higher than before, have air in system and bleeding could help. I have seen low thin pads create plus old fluid soft, low pedal out of rear brake shoes adjustment on rear drum systems, pedal feel low initial, and spongy fluid contamination/ air or booster issues or in my 94 just how it is.
Maybe this helps you make a determination.
