Pointers on transmission install? (1 Viewer)

[GMSilk_Fj60]

I've spent all morning getting my 60 all back together after a big rebuild of just about everything mechanical (only axles are left and they will be next few weeks project).

Anyway...

I can not seem to get the transmission to line up with the pilot bearing for the life of me. I don't have a transmission jack but figured I could make do with wood blocks and floor jacks like I always do. Is the Jack really worth going out and purchasing?

Any of you all have some pointers on how to best re-pair a 2F with a H41?

Should I put the trans mount and trans mount back on and use that to guide the input shaft in? Or should I free float it and add it later (rely on the bell house bolts to hold it up)?

 

[OSS]

I've stabbed a H41 twice just using a floor jack, so it's definitely possible (and dangerous). I definitely wouldn't recommend it to anyone though ... because I know how sketchy it is. I would never attempt it again, which is why I purchased a proper transmission jack the last time I did it.

You've got to use alignment bolts with the hex head cut off to get it aligned straight. The input shaft tip only inserts the last 1/2" into the pilot bearing, so if the TMS is hanging up farther out, it may just be the clutch disc isn't perfectly centered in the pressure plate.

I'd pull the TMS out and carefully probe the clutch disc hole with the clutch alignment tool, rotating it several times to insert in different orientations to be sure the tool inserts all the way into the pilot bearing without hanging up.

If the TMS is only 1/2" away from being home, you might be feeling the interference fit of the pilot bearing. If the TMS is perfectly parallel with the bellhousing and the alignment dowels have engaged, it's ok to CAREFULLY, pull in the TMS a tiny spec at a time by tightening up the bolts to pull it in. But you have to go real slow, do each bolt 1/2 turn at a time to ensure that the TMS is sliding in. If you feel too much pressure tightening the bolts, it's not aligned properly and if you continue on, there's a good chance of breaking off a mounting ear. So be careful.

GET A PROPER JACK

 

[g-man]

I did it 2x with a floor jack. Put the floor jack handle to the front of the truck and have someone pulling (blind). Have someone watching from the side to see it going in (coaching) . They can tell if you need to come up or down or adjust the tilt of the transmission. One person under the truck with back on the floor pushing/gently rocking the EDIT: tranfer case with there feet on either side of it. EDIT you can also make a bridal of sort for the trans/t/case with a rope or chain and use your feet and hands to maneuver it. Use ratchet straps and some boards to hold the trans/tc tight and level on the floor jack so it's not flopping around. Once it goes in you're going to know. I bolted the 4 transmission bolts to the flywheel housing after the dowel pins were in. Lower the floor jack, put the cross member in. If your truck is on a lift I wouldn't go up with it w/out securing the cross member. Remember the weight of your engine, trans, and tc is now being held by only the motor mounts and the exhaust.

If you replaced the pilot bearing I hope you made sure it fit the snout on the trans input shaft. There are diff sizes.

FWIW I don't think a transmission jack is going to hold that trans/tc together unless it is one esp made for it. Its heavy, bulky, and akward. And that's a lot of weight to lift up to and take off a transmission jack that stands chest high. Much easier to roll it off a floor jack and tilt it back on one. Just my opinion.

 

[shelfboy1]

i have used a sears tranny jack for years i welded a bracket to it since all we work on is 4x4s so it holds the tranny and t case where you need it

 

[Infinity00]

I used a tranny jack from harbor freight with a welded bracket as well. With 3 people it was still really hard and way more time consuming than you would think to get it to line up and in. Definitely need some eyes on it and a peep hole to see it.

 

[FARMAN33]

Here's what I did on mine. Similar to @OSS

M12X1.25 bolts are what you need.

 

[HemiAlex]

Here's what I did on mine. Similar to @OSS

M12X1.25 bolts are what you need.

I can't help but feel that you both posted that to help and show off your screwdriver at the same time.

 

[FARMAN33]

There are no accidents. @HemiAlex

...and I will use the same studs and driver when we do yours next month. Only the best!


It also helps to play with the engine angle. It needs to be supported without the trans and cross brace. Bring a floor jack under the oil pan (with a 2x4) and see if you can find a better angle to push it the final 1/2"

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

I always hate it when people dont close the story in these feeds. So here we go...

I got the transmission in. Many thanks to all the pointers above. I ended up not having a trans jack and after driving all over looking for one I decided the floor jack would have to do.

1a.) The pointer about your largest rolling floor jack under the transmission, going out the front of the car was a very helpful one... But Id like to add one more pointer. A second rolling jack sitting front to back under the transfercase was crucial. The second jack gives you a stable platform to control roll and pitch of the transfer while the main jack under the transmission controls height.

1b.) For safety, you can open your doors and run a rachet strap or two through the car and under the transmission. If the trans decides it wants to fall off the jack, the straps will catch the trans and keep it from hitting the ground. I kept mine just loose enough to immediately catch the assembly if it started to fall, but not enough to to stop the jacks from rolling forward towards the clutch.

2.) You can get pretty far into the clutch before the pilot bearing becomes an issue. I put the transmission in neutral for the install to promote splines aligning. Put it in gear every so often and spin the output flanges. You'll feel when they are in correctly as they will no longer spin (you will be fighting the compression of the motor).

3.) Use the bellhousing bolts to tell you if you are aligned going in. They should be able to be finger tigtened, at least initially, without binding as you start the transmission in. I was able to get about 3 threads deep before I started feeling a little resistance. There was still about 1/2"-3/4" of space between the clutch and transmssion (enough for me to just get my finger in to ensure the splines were infact in the right place). I didnt have to use a hammer for any of this. Finesse is key. Dont crack your aluminum.

4.) Once all four bolts are a few threads in, use the slow 1/2 turn method described above to slowly pull the transmission into place. It will move the jacks and all if you have a surface that allows for easy rolling and they are in fore/aft alignment. I constantly measured the space between bell housing and clutch at each of the bolts as I tightened to ensure everything was going in straight.

5.) I was suprised at how, all of a sudden, you feel the end of the input shaft find the pilot bearing. Tightening the 4 bellhousing bolts becomes extremely easy.

6.) Drop away the front jack on the transmission and leave the back jack on the transfer case in place. This will not stress your motor mounts and allows for the trans mount and crossbar to be installed.

7.) Do everything else required to get your cruiser rolling again. Crack a beer and thank god that dealing with that beast isnt as regular as an oil change.

 

[Infinity00]

Thanks for the update. I’m worried I might have to do this again since my transfer case is making a noise. Can you expand on #2? You put it in neutral but then you put it in gear and rotate the output shaft to align? I’m confused about this part and I feel it might be the key to doing this more easily.

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

Thanks for the update. I’m worried I might have to do this again since my transfer case is making a noise. Can you expand on #2? You put it in neutral but then you put it in gear and rotate the output shaft to align? I’m confused about this part and I feel it might be the key to doing this more easily.

The first couple of times I tried to put it in the clutch, I felt like I couldnt get the shaft in far enough to even have a chance of reaching the bell housing/alignment bolts. I thought about removing a spark plug and physically turning the motor over (by hand, not by starter) to get the splines to line up. The easier method is to just put the trans and transfer in the lowest gear so you can easily spin it by hand. Insert the input shaft slowly and just keep 1/4 spinning the input shaft back and forth. It will find the spline alignment easily.

Make sense?

 

[Infinity00]

Yes, thanks. Was that the key to getting it in easier? How long did it take after you figured that part out?

 

[GMSilk_Fj60]

Honestly, the shaft alignment using the bolts was the key. As hard as I tried looking at the driveshaft flanges, mounting bracket/cross member (took it on and off a few times), and the input shaft, nothing was accurate enough to line everything up. The key for me was 1.) insert the shaft into splines to confirm they are pairing well and 2.) use the bolts for alignment and slowly pulling the whole assembly in. The input shaft part aligns pretty easily once its not hanging up. The slow bolt method assured alignment and let me feel for resistance. I had some concerns about the ears breaking so just be sure to move slow and always have the assembly supported. I didn't have to mess with the pitch of the 2F at all.

 

[Infinity00]

Ah thanks! I used the alignment bolts when I did mine and you are right they are a must. Since I still had trouble getting it in after aligning it on the bolts I was curious about anything else that helps along with those. Thanks again for your observations and posting up!