Have you tried to jump yourself? If so, then a 100 amp fuse sounds like it would be the better choice.
Planning a dual battery setup and accessories (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Anthony.L
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If you look at the following link, you will see the IBS system uses a 200 amp relay which leads me to believe a 200 amp fuse is needed.
http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system.html
http://ibs-tech.ch/en/products/dual-battery-system.html
T-Max has a 250 amp relay, which is surprising. Like I said earlier, I have done a self jump and my 200 amp fuse was enough to support it.
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FEY-47-3800
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/FEY-47-3800
Why a fuse at all?
Incase the 1/0 gauge wire running between batteries shorts out (most likely in an accident).
With that severe of an accident it won't matter.... one battery is going to keep sparking since it's after the fuse... you would need two fuses (one at each battery) to isolate the 1 AWG connecting wire.
The fuse/breaker really needs to be on the output side.
[EDIT] I suppose the relay would melt down eventually disconnecting the second battery from the 1AWG that's shorting.
The fuse/breaker really needs to be on the output side.
[EDIT] I suppose the relay would melt down eventually disconnecting the second battery from the 1AWG that's shorting.
Yep, I am suggesting two fuses, one at each battery...
SanDiegoCruiser said:
I have done it a couple times. I just donet know electrical well enough to guess fuse size. But, some one else here will....
Sent from my phone using IH8MUD
I'm not against the fuses - I didn't go that way.
Everybodys experiences are different with different batteries. I have 2 Optima D31 yellow tops, these are for starting my turbo diesel (only one for start) and the other for my fridge/accessories. They are now EIGHT YEARS OLD and are getting sluggish. The turbo diesel has a 3 kilowatt starter drawing over 400 amps. I am about to buy 2 new ones, I swap their positions in the truck every couple of years, and one of them won't spin the engine fast enough in the cold @ 0 degrees Celsius, so it is in the accessory position at the moment.
So I can't complain about their service, they haven't done much winching in that time, but the turbo diesel engine needs a lot of speed to get started, and these guys really pack the punch. The vehicle comes with 2 batteries in parallel originally to start it, I went to yellow tops and only use one to start it and they spin it up extremely quickly.
Sorry about the size, I can't get it right.
So I can't complain about their service, they haven't done much winching in that time, but the turbo diesel engine needs a lot of speed to get started, and these guys really pack the punch. The vehicle comes with 2 batteries in parallel originally to start it, I went to yellow tops and only use one to start it and they spin it up extremely quickly.
Sorry about the size, I can't get it right.
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I think there are a number of viable ways to set up two batteries in a Land Cruiser. This time around for my UJZ100 I went with a battery isolation module from Hellroaring Technologies alongside a marine battery switch from Blue Marine for manual cut-over and winch isolation. I have a 300A fuse between batteries.
Here's a schematic:
And yes, Ill try to get some pictures taken soon.
A PDF of the drawing is here.
Here's a schematic:
And yes, Ill try to get some pictures taken soon.
A PDF of the drawing is here.
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This is a detailed thread of how I set up mine: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/607791-t-max-dual-battery-install.html
How I wired it:
Pic:
Hi-Res:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8003/7624078190_be979cc966_o.jpg
How I wired it:
Pic:
Hi-Res:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8003/7624078190_be979cc966_o.jpg
new set up for dual battery
I didn't like my last set up, so I'm going to try this one now - a marine battery combiner (about $60, and a low battery cut off - about $60). Seems to work good - nothing fancy, and very very low energy use by the electronics themselves.
Gil
Ventura
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|51495|606044&id=605576
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009612WS2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
I didn't like my last set up, so I'm going to try this one now - a marine battery combiner (about $60, and a low battery cut off - about $60). Seems to work good - nothing fancy, and very very low energy use by the electronics themselves.
Gil
Ventura
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|51495|606044&id=605576
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009612WS2/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
Did the blue sea kit in mine and I love it
how did everyone's project turn out? any changes? just purchased an Arb fridge so i am going to order slee second battery and start gathering parts.
The possibilities are endless. I ran a dedicated circuit to the rear for all the electronics in the back, and plan to do a similar setup under the hood for some lighting solution from our friend Nick at ELS. My build thread highlights the install of phase 1.
Phase 3 will be To run more power to the M416...
Phase 3 will be To run more power to the M416...
I'm really happy with my dual battery setup. I ran a 2/0 gauge from my aux battery to a blue sea 250 remote shutoff fuse block under the hood. Then I ran 2/0 gauge through the firewall to a 200 amp blue sea fuse block under the passengers seat.
Pretty soon I am going to run a 2 gauge cable to the rear near the jack and hidden in my roller drawer sides. I will mount a blue sea 150 amp fuse block back there. (For now I have a 4 gauge from the middle fuse block to the inverter, a 2 gauge to my amp and some 12 gauge to assorted blue sea 12v outlets.)
I want a secondary battery just to run my ARB fridge. I am wondering if I need to go the extent you guys did. Thrre is a factory plug right there but don't want to deplete the primary.
Anyone got a "simpler" setup?
Anyone got a "simpler" setup?
fireball
SILVER Star
If anyone has any links they can share to comprehensive write-ups or how-tos on installing a second battery, I would really appreciate it.
I have the absolute worst amount of electrical knowledge...enough to sort of understand it, but not enough to sort things out on my own!
Thanks!
FWIW, I'm planning to run the following accessories....backup light, large driving/spot lights, modest stereo (600-1000W), inverter, a few extra USB and 12v sockets, and a fridge.
I have the absolute worst amount of electrical knowledge...enough to sort of understand it, but not enough to sort things out on my own!
Thanks!
FWIW, I'm planning to run the following accessories....backup light, large driving/spot lights, modest stereo (600-1000W), inverter, a few extra USB and 12v sockets, and a fridge.
My system couldn't be any more simple. I use a manual Cole Hersee solenoid that I set to either "Both" or "Aux". It's just a simple battery disconnect. Plus, a small 8-place fuse panel. I think I have about $50 all in, minus the cables.
I'm not smart enough to understand 50 wires and blinking lights. I need something that enables me to isolate my aux battery while I'm camping to run my fridge, HAM, inverter and some lights without the worry of draining my main battery.
The problem with the dual battery systems on the market is that when folks are driving down the road and the LCD box shows two full batteries, they think they have two full batteries. That isn't the case. If your truck is running and you disconnect one battery from the system, that LCD box is still going to show two full batteries. The regulator doesn't "see" individual batteries. If your truck is running, it's reading the voltage from the alternator. You need to shut the truck off to get a reading. My HAM radio has a volt meter that reads voltage from the aux battery when I turn it on. The 100 has a dummy gauge for the main battery. I carry a $10 volt meter and can check for myself too.
I don't have the smarts or a need for the fancy box and all the wires. I can do the same thing for $75 total, 3 wires and a on/off switch. Too many wires for me to understand if something goes wrong or fails. I'm a simpleton.
The real way to do dual batteries would be to separate them at the alternator and have an electronic solenoid and a switch in the cab where you could charge either or both batteries while driving down the road. Otherwise, the main battery will always fully charge before anything reaches your aux battery.
