Planning a dual battery setup and accessories (1 Viewer)

[Anthony.L]

I'm about to embark on the finally outfitting my 04 LC with a true dual battery setup. This something I've put off for a very long time. However I'm on the verge of adding several electrical accessories to my LC and need to first complete the dual battery installation as a foundation. I've done countless searches here and on other sites. I've looked at countless other dual battery setups. Some have different accessories connected to different batteries within the system.

Here is what I have planned for dual batteries. I've already purchased and received the upgraded main battery tray ($70) from SHAGGY101. As for the secondary battery tray I planned on purchasing the 2nd Battery Tray ($79) from Slee.

The SHAGGY101 main tray is designed specifically for the Sears Platinum Group 31 Marine battery. The Slee 2nd battery tray is designed for a Optima Group 34 battery. I measured the Sears Platinum Group 34 Marine battery. It's basically the same dimensions as the Optima (hence both Group 34) and will fit the Slee tray.

Dual battery selection:

Sears DieHard Platinum PM-1 Group 31M - Main Battery ($279.99)

Sears DieHard Platinum PM-2 Group 34M - Aux Battery ($219.99)

At this point I will have two new Sears batteries installed in their respective trays. The main battery will be hooked up to the OEM wiring harness and the 2nd battery will not be connected yet.

Next I will be purchasing a IBS Dual Battery Management System ($466) which is currently on group buy here on MUD through Sierra Expeditions.

Once all said and done I will have a dual battery system installed and connected as this diagram.

At this point I'm in the hole around $1100 and ready to start connecting accessories to my new dual battery system. Here is a list of the accessories I'm envisioning.

1. Superwinch 12.5 SR
2. Quick disconnect jumper cable on front ARB bumper
3. Quick disconnect jumper cable on rear Slee bumper (future)
4. IPF fog lights in front ARB bumper
5. (2) Hella Rallye 4000 100w halogen driving lights on font ARB bumper
6. ARB 47L Fridge mounted in the rear passenger seat area
7. Blue Sea 12 position fuse block inside the vehicle either center console or rear area
8. Xantrex PROwatt SW 1000watt DC to AC inverter located in the rear cabin (part of drawer system)
9. Cobra 29 LX LCD CB Radio (mounted on center console)
10. 2m HAM radio (future, mounted on center console)

So, let's start with winch. I've seen some people recommend that it be connected to the main battery, some to the aux battery. One would think logically it would go to the starter battery, also where the main feed is from the alternator. Some argue you should run it off the aux battery in case it damages the main battery. Keep in mind the IBS system has the ability to combine both batteries together in parallel for example when winching.

Same story for the jumper cables, main or aux?

The rest I think I have a good idea, they should all be connected to the aux battery. The fog and driving lights, I would like them to be able to run with the engine not running and without fear of killing the main battery. The fridge and internal accessories off the fuse block all connected to the aux battery. I want these to have direct power at all times, regardless if the ignition is on or engine running. Any reason any of these should not have direct power at all times and be switched via the ignition?

What am I missing? Thoughts?

 

[Mxndrnks]

I am running the NL dual battery system. While not the same, they recommend the winch be connected to the starting battery and I agree. SO, I would do that. I like keeping the main battery as isolated from everything I may add as I can (winch excluded).

For my Aux battery I have an optima yellow top and run everything else to that. Right now that is only fridge and aux outlets I ran to the rear. If I ever add anything I will run it to the Aux battery as well.

Hope this helps!

 

[RobRed]

I just started my wiring for this today. I have already mounted my IBS controller and today mounted my master breaker for my interior mounted aux fuse box.

 

[Anthony.L]

RobRed, that looks like the Slee 2nd battery tray, no? Also the breaker looks like a Cooper Bussmann, kind of like this one? What amp breaker are you using for the feed to the internal fuse block? Also what gauge power cable feeding the fuse block?

 

[CappyKD]

Subscribed. I am planning my system out now. I have the same main battery/tray as you. Only I have AHC so I havn't figured out where the second battery will go yet. I'm going to go with all Blue Sea components including battery management and switching / combining. I already have the SafetyHub 100 waterproof fuse block for underhood, and a 12 position panel w/ ground for inside in the back. I may run a switched, fused distro panel under the passenger seat in between the engine and the rear panel.

 

[RobRed]

RobRed, that looks like the Slee 2nd battery tray, no? Also the breaker looks like a Cooper Bussmann, kind of like this one? What amp breaker are you using for the feed to the internal fuse block? Also what gauge power cable feeding the fuse block?

Yep same style breaker. Mine is the Blue Sea 285 series, 150AMP. I'm using #2 Welding cable for battery to aux-battery (Incl Isolator), aux-battery to breaker and breaker to aux fuse box.

This is the fuse box I'm using in the back of my rig. SafetyHub 100 Fuse Block - Blue Sea Systems

I'll post a wire schematic up as soon as I draw one

Yes it's Slee's tray.... A couple of minor issues; the power steering bottle touches and the bottom tray bolt is too long and sticks out the fender liner 1/2". I'll fix both but be advised.

 

[RobRed]

Subscribed. I am planning my system out now. I have the same main battery/tray as you. Only I have AHC so I havn't figured out where the second battery will go yet. I'm going to go with all Blue Sea components including battery management and switching / combining. I already have the SafetyHub 100 waterproof fuse block for underhood, and a 12 position panel w/ ground for inside in the back. I may run a switched, fused distro panel under the passenger seat in between the engine and the rear panel.

Slee has got away from the manual transfer switches in the 100 series trucks - you may want to ask him why (I forgot).

 

[Anthony.L]

RobRed, those breakers, cable, and fuse blocks are setup for some serious amp draw. I'm curious what you will be connecting that will need that amp load. Just want to make sure I'm not underrated on my setup.

I also forgot to include a DC to AC inverter. Will add that to the list. Now those do draw some serious amp load from what I've read. I'm thinking about one in the 1000-1500w range.

 

[CappyKD]

Slee has got away from the manual transfer switches in the 100 series trucks - you may want to ask him why (I forgot).

Thanks for the warning! I actually am going to use this auto xfer switch rated at 500A.

Amazon.com: New Blue Sea 7622 ML-Series Heavy Duty Automatic Charging Relay: ADVENTURER'S BAG

 

[Anthony.L]

If you are going to spend that much on the relay alone, why not spend a little more and get a complete system with in-cab battery monitoring like the IBS or National Luna systems offer?

 

[CappyKD]

If you are going to spend that much on the relay alone, why not spend a little more and get a complete system with in-cab battery monitoring like the IBS or National Luna systems offer?

I get all the same features except for the led bar graph plus double the amp rating.

ML-Series Heavy Duty Automatic Charging Relay - PN 7622 - Blue Sea Systems

 

[RobRed]

RobRed, those breakers, cable, and fuse blocks are setup for some serious amp draw. I'm curious what you will be connecting that will need that amp load. Just want to make sure I'm not underrated on my setup.

I also forgot to include a DC to AC inverter. Will add that to the list. Now those do draw some serious amp load from what I've read. I'm thinking about one in the 1000-1500w range.

The Safety hub 100 fuse block has 7 circuits, 3 are high power up to 200amp and 4 smaller up to 20amp. The high power feeds are for a Xantrex 600watt inverter, Puma air compressor and a 5 channel audio amplifier. The 4 smaller circuits will include dedicated fridge, ham radio, 12v outlets and 1 future.

As a quick rule use the wattage draw of your accessory divided by 12 (volts) for a thumbnail of the amp draw. for example a 1000watt inverter/12volts=83.4 amps. You need a #2 cable for that. Factor in your total load. I'm factoring that my setup will not draw more than 150 amps peak - pretty rare to have every accessory on and cranked up to the max.

 

[SHAGGY101]

You could always go with their kit as well.

Add a Battery - Blue Sea Systems

 

[Anthony.L]

I get all the same features except for the led bar graph plus double the amp rating.

To me having the battery monitor in the cabin for both starter and aux batteries is huge. When WAY out in the woods I keep a close eye on the battery and alternator status with my ScanGauge right now.

However you could always just add a pair of cheap LCD battery monitor gauges in the dash for just that purpose.

 

[CappyKD]

You could always go with their kit as well.

Add a Battery - Blue Sea Systems

Yup but it's only capable of 120 Amps. This is the first thing I looked at, which led me to the 7622.

 

[RobRed]

To me having the battery monitor in the cabin for both starter and aux batteries is huge. When WAY out in the woods I keep a close eye on the battery and alternator status with my ScanGauge right now.

However you could always just add a pair of cheap LCD battery monitor gauges in the dash for just that purpose.

I mounted my IBS controller in the center console out of sight... I dont think you really need to monitor the voltage that closely IMO sometimes too many gauges is a burden to driving and most of these gadgets have voltage alarms.

 

[CappyKD]

To me having the battery monitor in the cabin for both starter and aux batteries is huge. When WAY out in the woods I keep a close eye on the battery and alternator status with my ScanGauge right now.

However you could always just add a pair of cheap LCD battery monitor gauges in the dash for just that purpose.

I have a bluetooth ODBII adapter that I use for main battery voltage, and low voltage alarms. I will have to install a gauge or two somewhere for the aux. (I was thinking one dash mounted and one in the back for tailgating.)

 

[RobRed]

Yup but it's only capable of 120 Amps. This is the first thing I looked at, which led me to the 7622.

Yeah that's right on the bubble. The IBS is 200 continuous and 500 peak which is probably the right number for a car. More than that and you are being gratuitous But who am I to say... you might have a couple of high output bilge pumps to run.

 

[CappyKD]

Yeah that's right on the bubble. The IBS is 200 continuous and 500 peak which is probably the right number for a car. More than that and you are being gratuitous But who am I to say... you might have a couple of high output bilge pumps to run.

How'd you know about my bilge pump project? I want to overkill everything and do my best to do it all once.

I already have a laundry list of power needs.

roughly 100 amps for stereo
dedicated 15 for fridge
30-60 for roof rack lighting
15-30 for aux reverse lights
Jumper cable mounts front and rear?
Front winch
Rear Winch?
100 amps for inverter
7 pin trailer connector charge circuit
OBA 30 amps
Front aux lighting?
extra constant hot cig lighter sockets. Possibly switched.

Enough that I am thinking about a 200A mean green 100 series alternator. Then the IBS system is on the ragged edge.

 

[CappyKD]

Of course I admit, I am probably WAY overdoing it.