That stuff is great even with crimping.. it seals the connection and it takes the tension off the connection and moves it to the insulator. That stuff, to me, was game changing.
Pigtails and soldering or crimp new pins? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PNWTreeOctopus
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I use these, but I work in aviation and have the proper crimping tool also. RAYCHEM BUTT SPLICE BLUE TIN-PLATED (PACK OF 25) from Aircraft Spruce Canada
There are these for the solder crowd
www.aircraftspruce.com
There is an non-aviation Product that is the same idea.
Amazon product ASIN B0878QZLWD
There are these for the solder crowd
Raychem Solder Sleeve | Aircraft Spruce
Raychem Solder Sleeve Raychem's Solder Sleeve one-step, heat-shrinkable wire and cable interconnection devices are a labor saving alternative to conventional wire and cable termination methods such as craft-sensitive, time-consuming, hand s
There is an non-aviation Product that is the same idea.
Amazon product ASIN B0878QZLWD
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #23
Ok I think I’m sold on the crimp pathway just given that its prone to lots of vibration, and I’m not confident that my soldering skills could produce strong enough joints given the space I’d be working in. I’m looking into the best crimp heat shrink connectors and a higher quality crimp tool. Trying to balance keeping quality high, and costs reasonable. Thanks everybody for the thoughtful responses.
Of course there is no demand for automated solder termination of wires. It couldn’t compete with crimping. There are plenty of wiring applications in this world that could use a solder termination and work just fine. If it was cheaper to solder, manufacturers would jump at the reduced costs. And that machine you linked isn’t soldering terminations on a wire.
I also don’t agree that our trucks are high vibration. None of the harnesses in our trucks are supported like would be expected in a high vibration environment.
I crimp all the terminations on my truck. There have been rare occasions where I had to solder and I don’t have any fear those soldered connections will fail. There are plenty of solder joints in our trucks that haven’t failed.
I use these, but I work in aviation and have the proper crimping tool also. RAYCHEM BUTT SPLICE BLUE TIN-PLATED (PACK OF 25) from Aircraft Spruce Canada
There are these for the solder crowd
Raychem Solder Sleeve | Aircraft Spruce
Raychem Solder Sleeve Raychem's Solder Sleeve one-step, heat-shrinkable wire and cable interconnection devices are a labor saving alternative to conventional wire and cable termination methods such as craft-sensitive, time-consuming, hand s
There is an non-aviation Product that is the same idea.
Amazon product ASIN B0878QZLWD
Solder sleeves are typically used for shield terminations and eliminate the need for a crimped ferrule.
The D-436-52 splice you linked is a high quality moisture resistant splice.
For splices I use TE (AMP) 34130, 34137 and 34138 with a 49935 crimp tool and finished with a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink. Smaller than the D-436 and more cost effective.
I'd like to put in my 2 cents. Especially after this post. Most transportation vehicles can be catagorized as high vibration environments for electronics components - including wiring.
Very true and speaking of PCB's, the single most cause of failure on PCB's, excluding component failure, physical damage and ESD (electro static damage), is poor or failed solder joints. Read up on cold solder joints if you're not aware of what they are. While soldering may seem to be quicker and easier, it is as prone to failure as crimping and in a vibration prone environment, more so. In a proper solder joint, electrical connection relies on the physical contact of the two conductors being joined. Solder is used to hold the connection and can also reduce the voltage drop by enhancing the connection. Tinning stranded wire is an action that is commonly used to keep the strands together before terminating a wire. When this is done, it severely reduces the flexibility of that wire wherever the solder has flowed to. So, if you think you are adding strength to a connection by soldering it, think again. It may seem to be stronger at first, but any vibration or action that stresses the tinned section will eventually break the strands in the wire. And that eliminates the main advantage to stranded wire - flexibility - made to hold up to vibration. Cable clamps and heat shrink can be used to support or secure wires & connections that are high risk or exposure.
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PNWTreeOctopus
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- #27
The wealth of knowledge here is so deeply appreciated. I’ve got a pair of crimpers and some connectors on the way. Thanks everyone!
1973Guppie
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may have been mentioned already but get a good ratcheting crimper and an automatic wire stripper
Amazon product ASIN B07S9FYKZC
Amazon product ASIN B07GJFVXXD
Amazon product ASIN B07S9FYKZC
Amazon product ASIN B07GJFVXXD
thatcabledude
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What style did you go with?
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #30
This TE crimp tool retails at $560 Which is way above my budget. The one I bought is like $30, its made in Taiwan. Some of the amazon comments were critical of the cast jaws not being a great fit, but these seem satisfactory. I’ll give it a whirl with some connectors to see how well it preforms, before I begin surgery on the engine side harness. I’ll post my results in my build thread, waiting on new jack stands. Old one were sketchy HF ones that got recalled. Trying not to have this LC literally kill me.
Yeah, way above my budget too. I found mine on ebay a few years ago for less than $50.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #32
Oh man! When eBay works it’s the best! Great find! It didn’t occur to me. I will keep my eyes open in the local tool areas at the salvage and estate shops for these tools too. Hopefully this thing isn’t a tiny boat anchor and will get the job done. I’ll report my findings here for posterity. Is there a “tools that are garbage thread on mud?”
richardlillard1
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Channellock 909s for standard crimps and Engineer PA-21 if I’m crimping stuff to be like OEM for Toyota wiring harness stuff.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #34
Ok, all parts have arrived and the surgery will commence soon. A question came up for me about wrapping the wires after using the heat shrink crimps. I was thinking a few wraps over the whole splice area including heat shrink connectors up to the new plug. My reasoning is that having the harness wrapped up would increase the durability of the connection by keeping the repair area clean. I have some Tesa harness tape, Its high temp rated and apparently used in various European cars. Its a cloth tape. Any reason I should find something else? I recently read in the electrical wiring diagram the preferred method by Toyota for a crimp connector repair is to us a silicone tape, but my understanding is that this method uses crimp connectors that are not heat shrink. Given that this repair occurs behind the starter accessed from the DS wheel well I want to try for getting this accomplished in one shot.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #35
Well, I swapped out my old plug for the new one. The crimps worked well, the job was easier than I expected given its adjacent to the PHH and its awkward to work around the hardlines in there. I did run into a challenge, in that as I was removing the old harness side plug, several of pins gave out and before I knew it I had lost track of where the wires terminated in the plug. It wouldn’t be an issue except for the fact that the wire colors are not the same from the factory harness to the factory plug. There are also only 7 wire on the harness side and 8 on the plug side. I did my best to line up obvious matches like blue, red and orange, however I do get a little nervous when there is no blue on the harness side and rather red with a blue strip. I put it all together and the truck starts again, but I didn’t get my reverse lights back, or my dash PRND2L lights back. The truck has never had functioning reverse lights and I was really hoping this would solve this issue.
So, is there a resource I should turn to? I have the relevant sections of my FSM but they dont seem to illustrate wire color for a newb like me. What would you do? I dont want to cut the crimps off too many times trying to figure this out as its hard enough crimping in this spot without shortening the wires even more!
Any help Is appreciated.
So, is there a resource I should turn to? I have the relevant sections of my FSM but they dont seem to illustrate wire color for a newb like me. What would you do? I dont want to cut the crimps off too many times trying to figure this out as its hard enough crimping in this spot without shortening the wires even more!
Any help Is appreciated.
This page explains how wire colors are shown on the Toyota EWD's in my 1994 FSM, among some other helpful info. I've found the EWD's to be quite accurate for my '94. Hope this is helpful to you.
Sorry, I should have included this page 1st. It is the example that explains the A. B. C. etc.... sections:
PNWTreeOctopus
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- #38
Thank you! So I'm currently work ing with a 1996 EWD. I know that the plugs on the NSS changed in 1995. I have an electronic version of the 1994 FSM. What I'm looking for isn't in my wiring diagram section. I can find the Backup up light circuit, I can find the starting circuit, but I think I need the information that pertains to the ECT (electronically controlled transmission). I found it in the 1996 EWD, but there isn't any info in my digital FSM on the transmission. I don't know if its included or not. I highlighted it the needed info in red.
According to my '94 FSM, there is no "backup light" switch. The park/neutral position switch is what controls the the lights (Page BE-31).
Location:
If you refer to the AT section, Page AT-40, there is a chart that shows continuity for the terminals for each shift position and a diagram that shows pin positions in the connector:
With shifter in reverse, you should have continuity between pins 'C' and 'RL'.
Location:
If you refer to the AT section, Page AT-40, there is a chart that shows continuity for the terminals for each shift position and a diagram that shows pin positions in the connector:
With shifter in reverse, you should have continuity between pins 'C' and 'RL'.
PNWTreeOctopus
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- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for all the well reasoned advice and help. My new Deutch pigtails are properly connected and crimped and wrapped up. I‘m so happy to have Reverse Lights, PRND2L lights, and gear holding in L. Success!!!
