PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =?

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Seat Bracing Dilemma

Does anyone think I'll need a midspan brace, where the blocks of wood are shown? I'll be bracing off the side rollcage vert. bars to handle the corners, but I don't want any deflection in the middle. I'm using 1 3/4" DOM .120 wall. I guess 2 - 170+lb. adults, the seats, & console are the weight factors. I'd have to make a brace beneath the floor, tied to the frame on both sides, then shoot up thru the floor to the horiz. bar (?) That bar is 4 1/2" off the floor. Any other suggestions?
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My question is why didnt you just run straight from the a to b pillars with that tube instead of making that hoop then running a support from it to the b pillar. If you had just went directly to it then it would have been stronger. I dont think you will need a support in the middle just seems like extra weight to me. I dont think your gonna be twisting so hard as to cause deflection in that tubing.
 
Stand on it and see if it flexes with the 2x's out.... obviously you will need to support the two sides to do this.
 
My question is why didnt you just run straight from the a to b pillars with that tube instead of making that hoop then running a support from it to the b pillar. If you had just went directly to it then it would have been stronger. I dont think you will need a support in the middle just seems like extra weight to me. I dont think your gonna be twisting so hard as to cause deflection in that tubing.

At the time, I thought this would look cleaner, be easier to disassemble (whole assy is removeable - see flanges on front tube), & be quicker to assemble - 1 cont. bar versus 3 seperate bars all fitted & fully welded. In hindsight, maybe not the best structural decision but I'm stayin with my original design. Thanks for the input dudes!
 
Thats cool just wondering. You could have flanged both ends though and then had tubes that went from pillar to pillar.
 
You could also "truss" it inside the cab. It wouldn't necessarily need to touch the floor in the middle, you just need to make your "web" taller in the middle section where the bending moment is greatest. In other words, why not run a smaller diameter top tube that you integrate into the seat mounts?
 
Seat Mounts

Finished up the driver side seat mounts. Onto the pass side & gotta mount the Ford Explorer console I picked up at the j'yard this weekend. The mount for the flip down armrest requires a hard connection almost to the top of the console. A bit of a PITA, but I'll make it work. Pics later.....
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chuck this is all killer, somehow I forgot about this killer thread man, nice work man, looks great! Boy I would love to have a bender and those mad bending skills! Can't wait to see what it looks like in the end!
 
Seats/ Console & Mounting Assy.

Except for a little trimming on the middle console brackets, to clear the heater, weld in some bolt mounts for the retractable seat belts & buy some seat covers, it's done! Seats are Pontiac Fiero w/ headrest speakers & the console is from a 90's Ford Explorer. I'll be installing a small hidden storage box under the floorboard for security purposes.
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If only you could work with metal, this might be cool. Geez.... Work not keeping you working late anymore or what?
 
If only you could work with metal, this might be cool. Geez.... Work not keeping you working late anymore or what?

It's always been my choice whether or not to work late/ do side jobs. That ain't fun! Envisioning functional ideas on this truck & building them IS my favorite thing to do & the best parts of this build are coming up.

Ever see one of those tubular bed extenders that the smaller trucks use? My design will enable me to break it down quickly & "fold" it back to the rear tailgate. Or a quick-mount double gas can cage? Rear bumper/ bed area is next......... Thanks for all the positive replys!
 
Dual Gas Can Carrier:

I'm about halfway done with it. My intent was to make this as compact as possible since it's hanging off the back. I'll add some tubing running front to back to "sandwich" the cans. I used my old license plate mounts from my 40. This will be on a swing out, mounted on my rear bumper, which is next on the list.
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I'm about halfway done with it. My intent was to make this as compact as possible since it's hanging off the back. I'll add some tubing running front to back to "sandwich" the cans. I used my old license plate mounts from my 40. This will be on a swing out, mounted on my rear bumper, which is next on the list.

Hot damn that is one wicked gas tank carrier. But it seems like it might be excessivly heavy? Is it all that heavy?
 
Same thing I was thinking. Looks like you could have gone a fair bit smaller on the diameter of that tubing and been ok. Not like it will be ramming into rocks or anything.
 
It's made from lightweight HREW tubing 11 ga. electrical conduit - 1 1/2" outer, 1 1/4" inner. The smallest die I have is the 1 1/4" 3.5 rad. & when you bend a 90 deg. the tube gets mildly distorted at the bend. That's the minimum thickness I will use on non-load bearing supports/ tube material. I do think about weight savings to a point, but I will NOT compromise when it comes to strenght or durability. I certainly don't want gas spilling out into a creek if I happen to back into a trail obstacle. Build it right the first time!
 
These jerry cans are actually used for hauling beer into the campsite. You can NEVER protect your beer too little! :beer: ;)
 
Besides mounting this gas can carrier cage to the rear bumper, I'm pretty much done with it! I'm just going to modify the stock rear bumper since it's in good shape & the way it mounts (wraps around the frame) is the *best way to maximize my departure angle. Next will be an on board air tank cage to the rear bumper. It'll reside next to the can carrier on a swing out mount. Both cages will fit within the rear tailgate space.
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