PIG + Chebby Avalanche Trim =?

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I guess the neons in the doors are out, damn!!!

Good suggestion though, thanks!

I have enough aux. lighting on this :pig: I don't wanna overdo it runnin one Optima battery.
 
BTW, those are some trick brackets you're makin for the brakelines on the LV :cool:

Oh yea, they were really complicated :D heat and twist ;) BTW, do you have any experience with sheet metal brake/shears like the one I have at my shop? I am having trouble getting it adjusted. It will not shear properly and I have all but pulled my hair out with the adjustments. Wondering if I am missing something or the thing is screwed POS Chinese iron. This is the same unit buckroseu bought and used for his build so it should work.
 
Mark - you'd think I'd have a brake/ shear but I don't. You should see my caveman way of bending metal w/ my vise & jigs :lol: I've never used one either :meh: I'd get Buck to send you some pics of his setup. Good luck w/ that :cheers:
 
:idea: :rolleyes:
Check out the pic of the "Avalanche trim" on the very 1st post of this :pig: build. Kinda :cool: eh?
Just to be totally honest with you, b/c I know you would be with me, the 3 tone isn't working for me. This is not an Avalanche it's a :pig:, besides that I have never seen a 3 tone Avalanche...have you?
I love the 2 tone paint sceem on the :pig: from the factory...it really set's off the body lines! :hillbilly: That's JMHO!
 
Mark - you'd think I'd have a brake/ shear but I don't. You should see my caveman way of bending metal w/ my vise & jigs :lol: I've never used one either :meh: I'd get Buck to send you some pics of his setup. Good luck w/ that :cheers:

Well i dicked around for some more and found several key bolts were loose. Chinese, go figure. After tightening everything and adjusting many times it works pretty well. You of all folks should get one of these, I can not imagine the time I would be wasting if I had to hand bend stuff.
 
Well i dicked around for some more and found several key bolts were loose. Chinese, go figure. After tightening everything and adjusting many times it works pretty well. You of all folks should get one of these, I can not imagine the time I would be wasting if I had to hand bend stuff.

what is it? got a link or pic?
 
Hey, I was biting my tongue anyway....but since you said it again...

I need to introduce you to my friend "Solidworks".
With the time you have invested in cutting pieces, you could have drawn your own knuckle and had it machined out for you. Not only would it look great, but it would allow you to do a stress analysis on it. And you can't say you don't know CAD...

I remembered this post by Rutbeer & :idea: I have 2 CNC cut brackets already on both my 40 & :pig: It's a power steering bracket. A mech. engineer friend of mine did the work. All I needed to do is fab up an adjuster to tighten the belt:

Update: I should have all the doors bolted up & adjusted by this weekend :D
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woweeee, cant believe its taken me so long to get thru all the pages of this thread, i too am a convert! at first i thought hmmm why, but now i see! wish i could/was allowed to build something like that and actually drive it, but our laws will not allow it here in australia....


i too tend to err on the side of over engineering, how much does this thing weigh? (hehe been a few posts since the question was last asked......)
 
woweeee, cant believe its taken me so long to get thru all the pages of this thread, i too am a convert! at first i thought hmmm why, but now i see! wish i could/was allowed to build something like that and actually drive it, but our laws will not allow it here in australia....


i too tend to err on the side of over engineering, how much does this thing weigh? (hehe been a few posts since the question was last asked......)

Thanks for the props guys :clap:
I thought you could build up a rig in Aussieland, but needed to have it okay'd by an engineer :confused:
I'll get it weighed when it goes in for rewiring. But that's after it gets a few other goodies installed ;p

Update w/ no pics :frown:
I've located some space for the hydro ram, right in the middle of the housing, going to the driver knuckle. Dang it's tight down there :eek: So, that means I needed to order another hysteer arm from Dynatrac. Simplefab did not realize he needed to also "machine" a 15* chamfer on the pass side hysteer arm. Since the top of the D60 knuckle tilts inward, that chamfer allows the heim there to ride level & also enables the draglink to fully extend w/o binding the heim. Pics will follow......
Oh yeah, I'm picking up a new windshield & weather stripping today.......finally :bounce:
 
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Thanks for the props guys :clap:
I thought you could build up a rig in Aussieland, but needed to have it okay'd by an engineer :confused:
I'll get it weighed when it goes in for rewiring. But that's after it gets a few other goodies installed ;p

thats true to a certain extent.
1-engineers are expensive, and
2- there are fairly stringent guidelines as to what they will let you do and register for on road use.
i could build one and trailer it to the 4WD parks but thats not really what i want mine for. i want to got up the beach, over to a few of the local islands and maybe even explore a bit of central australia... besides, im already building a buggie from scratch, cant have tooo many projects on the go....
 
Weekend Update

Minor setback:
Well, I finished up reworking the pass side steering arm, got it all painted up, & placed it on top of the knuckle only to realize I cut the chamfer the wrong way :mad: :bang: I was goin kinda fast & not paying attention, nor did I test fit before finishing. Back to welding it all up & starting over :rolleyes:

On a brighter note, I ordered all my exhaust, ARP studs for the steering arms & am currently contemplating how I'm gonna do my TUBE FENDERS :bounce: Can't figure out a good way to tie the front of the tubes to the frame or ??? I've seen a few different ideas so far but mostly waht I've found is they tied the fronts into another bar/ stinger or grill guard. I think I can come up w/ something good :meh:
 
Hamma,

I know you said you were looking to do real tube fenders, but I think this is a nice way to tie into the fron of the frame. If you did something like this you could still recreate the fender lines out of tube?? I am looking forward to what you come up with you have some really creative ideas.

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Ryan.

Minor setback:
Well, I finished up reworking the pass side steering arm, got it all painted up, & placed it on top of the knuckle only to realize I cut the chamfer the wrong way :mad: :bang: I was goin kinda fast & not paying attention, nor did I test fit before finishing. Back to welding it all up & starting over :rolleyes:

On a brighter note, I ordered all my exhaust, ARP studs for the steering arms & am currently contemplating how I'm gonna do my TUBE FENDERS :bounce: Can't figure out a good way to tie the front of the tubes to the frame or ??? I've seen a few different ideas so far but mostly waht I've found is they tied the fronts into another bar/ stinger or grill guard. I think I can come up w/ something good :meh:
 
Starting Tube Fenders

Got all the tubes bent up. I'm using 1/8" wall 1.5" DOM. For the rear support, I holesawed thru the inner panel, just in front of the upper door hinge access & will connect it to the rollcage. The connection there will be a slip inside 1 3/4" DOM joint. I want these to be removeable. I'll have bent a diag. bar extending up from the rocker skid & a brace coming off the shock/ coil tower. As for the front tie in, I have it figured out but will need to finish up mounting the fenders & see where I'm at w/ the front valance. The fenders are cut & I'll begin lining & trimming things up.....
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