Builds Phildoh build thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Phildoh
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- #202
Here's some of the happiness I'm currently toying around with...
And, I got the housing welded back together. I wanted to weld something on it as an ode to the diff gods, but nothing comes to mind. Might just do a sad face or something in the morning.
And, I got the housing welded back together. I wanted to weld something on it as an ode to the diff gods, but nothing comes to mind. Might just do a sad face or something in the morning.
- Thread starter
- #203
Hello all! Been busy, had a couple more skin graft surgeries so I've been down for a bit. Figured I'd toss up a pic of recent doings, including getting my Viair compressor installed with a custom brackets I welded up for the time being. Oh, and I went back to my roots, I needed some life within my stereo so in went a 15" kicker sub, ported box, and 600x1 amp. I'm beyond happy, except that now I have a hundred different rattles to deal with! Oh well. I'll update as things come along.
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You are now obligated to post a photo of your rig with those ultra masculine looking mud flaps.... Maybe I missed it, but what did you end up doing about rear axle shafts?
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- #205
@nukegoat had a pair in San Jose he ever so kindly sold me for a very fair price, and he even threw in a tcase skid plate he had that was a homemade unit that needs a little tweaking, but I plan on working on that actually, in a couple weeks. The mudflaps, Ive wanted since I was a kid since my last name is McNeil. Sacramento fuzz usually leaves modified rigs alone if you're running these big bastards, so I'm all in for not seeing Christmas lights in the rear view!
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- #206
So, the second day I owned this rig, the P/S and P/B both went from power to manual. Changed both, and the brakes have been fine since (except now, the rotors are spent. Feels like I have sombreros instead of discs!) but the PS pump always had a whine, that was really loud when first I stalled, and has somewhat quieted down, but still there. So I was out screwing around last week, and after making a few lock to lock turns in a short time, this pump took a dump! Certain things I'll go to Autozone for, but more important things I'll go OEM. I didn't, and now I have a failed part. So, I got a pump from Toyota, and a gallon of the Mobil synthetic hydraulic fluid to go with it as I've read many threads on this and I figure why the heck not. Added to that, and never wanting to have to manually steer a SFA on 37's ever again, I picked up a cooler for the PS loop. I've noticed many people run the cylindrical shaped coolers and are happy. I've also seen people use trans coolers as well, with excellent results and very low operating temps, and quick cooling when the system gets hot. Yes, this is overkill, but I want zero issues with overheating and loss of PS. Heck the new, crap I installed from Autozone was showing signs right after I installed and bled the system. The lift and tires went on two weeks later, and basically by the third week I was out testing the setup a bit and had intermittent failures of the PS already! So, note to the guys looking to save a buck, don't skimp on the PS pump replacement. I wish I spent the extra $100 then, and didnt have another headache now.
The cooler is a Hayden 516, with threaded fittings and hose adapters included. I went this route so if I ever change the setup and run something else, this cooler can be adapted to other things a bit easier than if it had hose barbs brazed on the ends.
And, well, a week and a half later and I started smelling the brand new subwoofer getting hot yesterday. Gonna take it in for warranty tomorrow hopefully. I'm thinking I should try and "blow" the sub so it doesn't work altogether when I take it in. The shop I go to is pretty nice, and I'm a repeat customer and they're very fair with everything. As long as they are good with the warranty, I'll mention them in a future post.
Here's the radiator for my P/S.
The cooler is a Hayden 516, with threaded fittings and hose adapters included. I went this route so if I ever change the setup and run something else, this cooler can be adapted to other things a bit easier than if it had hose barbs brazed on the ends.
And, well, a week and a half later and I started smelling the brand new subwoofer getting hot yesterday. Gonna take it in for warranty tomorrow hopefully. I'm thinking I should try and "blow" the sub so it doesn't work altogether when I take it in. The shop I go to is pretty nice, and I'm a repeat customer and they're very fair with everything. As long as they are good with the warranty, I'll mention them in a future post.
Here's the radiator for my P/S.
- Thread starter
- #207
Come to think of it, I might need more than a gallon with this cooler!
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- #208
Oh, and I forget to mention, as of New Year's I finally dropped a long time bad habit. I quit the grits! Screw you Marlboro man, I win. I'm 37, and been a 'pack and a half plus' a day smoker for the last 22 years! I have regained my taste, smell, my extremities don't get as cold so easily, my leg wound is healing up a lot quicker, I'll live longer, and hopefully my 3yo will forget what shes seen (I never smoke directly in front of my kid, but I've pulled up in the truck and she's seen me with a grit hanging out of my mouth, smoldering away...), and I'm saving some substantial money! And to think if I had all that money! They're also going to jump to $8/pk here in CA in April, and that's even more absurd than it already is. I started with the patch, and it worked great for the first two weeks. Changing it every 24hrs like clockwork, I had basically zero cravings and was doing g great. I fell asleep early one night and didn't change it, and left the same one on for 48hrs by accident. Called my doctor and they said no worries, but be careful with the next patch or two, as the effects of depression (and much worse) have been known to be present. Well ain't that the friggin truth! I put the new patch on after having the same one on for 48hrs, woke up the next morning and felt sick. Not a cold or flu sick, but stomach in knots, depressed, crawl under a blanket and shut the drapes sick. It was downright scary how this affected me, so I yanked that thing off and haven't looked back.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
Great job. The first time you do stuff where youre used to smoking, it will suck. Like the first road trip I took after quitting was aggravating, even though i felt fine day to day. Subsequent adventures have been fine. Just gotta make new memories
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
And hydro assist for the win
Damn that sucks. You need a Landtank modified axle shaft so that doesn't happen again.
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- #213
- Thread starter
- #214
I've looked into chromo rears, and I talked to RCV as I run their front shafts, and he (name I forgot) said that he will build me a pair for $600, same as anyone else, and they carry the no questions, no BS warranty like the front's do. I looked into other brands, and both I found had a strict warranty policy that if they were twisted they wouldn't warranty them, they had to be "broken" to receive a replacement axle. Pure BS IMO! So RCV will get my business again when I have $600 to blow on shafts. Tax return is already accounted for, and as if right now I still need to get my PS pump installed and the new cooler as well. Luckily I have a little Civic to put around town in, I don't mind driving "LaFawnduh" at all, but without PS and 37's make it a PITA! Especially parking that slug in these economy spaces everywhere!
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- Thread starter
- #215
Offhand, anyone know what the fluid capacity is for the stock PS system? I have a gallon of the Mobil hydraulic oil, and I'm curious if that'll cover it (fill) when I add the cooler. I'm figuring the cooler add's at least a quart, it's a big'n!
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@Phildoh
the @landtank axle is a modified oem axle. Allows you to still pull the twisted shaft oUT of axle housing. I think he charges 175 or 200. You would rather twist a shaft than break your whole rear diff assembly. Much cheaper. If you do chromos your diff or hub studs would break instead of axle shafts.
the @landtank axle is a modified oem axle. Allows you to still pull the twisted shaft oUT of axle housing. I think he charges 175 or 200. You would rather twist a shaft than break your whole rear diff assembly. Much cheaper. If you do chromos your diff or hub studs would break instead of axle shafts.
I like your solution for internal jerry can storage. What's the other side of the ratchet strap fastened to?
I did a search for this and found one thread on it, looks like splines removed in sections on the short side rear? I wonder if the specs are out there so people can have this done locally at a shop? Seems like a good idea.
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
I think stock is around a quart or two. With my cooler and larger reservoir and hydro assist I think mine takes close to three. Dont quote me on that though
The last sentence needs to be backed up with some truth whether it be mathamatical or emperical.
My suspicion is that even ARP studs and dowels will shear before the rear differential breaks.
