PHH Question (1 Viewer)

[Toyotaoh]

I was able to successfully remove the hardline from the back of the engine, then after dinner I am going to remove the rest of the PHH from the engine side.

I am getting my 5/8 silicon tube tomorrow. I ordered enough to do the workaround, but I thought I would give a try to re-using the hardline.

So my question is, is it easier (or even possible) to install the new PHH on the hardline side before placing it back behind the engine? I am trying to eliminate installing two hose fittings in that freakishly tiny space. I thought about "pre-fitting" the hardline end, then removing the hose before re-inserting it back into the engine- the thought being to make the final fitting a little easier.

Or perhaps I am overthinking this and should just install the bypass and be done with it. I am not a purist by any means, and if it works and its easier, then well, you know.

Let me know your thoughts.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I was able to R&R my PHH in a little over an hour doing it the way you are headed. I removed the metal tube from the head and then pulled the tube with PHH off of the block nipple. I then put the new PHH on the tube while it was out of the truck, fished the pre-assembled unit back into place and slid the new PHH right over the block nipple. I then got the top bolt of the metal tube started before fully tightening the PHH/nipple hose clamp. This allows for a little rotation while you get the metal tube lined up.

Definitely the easiest way to do this job.

 

[Pin_Head]

Yes, it is just as easy to reuse the metal tube once you have it out. This is called the "metal tube shortcut bypass" method and only requires 3 inches of expensive hose compared to 3 feet using the long way around bypass method. Looks cleaner too. Preinstall the PHH on the tube before you insert the assembly from the top to minimize the time spent underneath to pushing the hose on to the fitting on the head and tightening the clamp. No need to reattach the lower bracket bolt for the tube. It is a PITA.

 

[Toyotaoh]

Well, its done. The tough part of the job was removal vs. re-install. Took me about 15 minutes once I got the hose from OReillys. Pre-installed on the metal tube side, tightened down the clamp. Slid the engine side clamp on just enough so it would not fall off. Fished it back down the back, pushed the tube on to the engine side, positioned and tightened the clamp (which was the hardest part). Still have work to do, I will need to do a flush and fill and put everything back in its place. But it looks as though we are good to go!

 

[LFD2037]

Thanks for the detailed instructions on the 'easy' way!!!

 

[mendozart]

I got lucky. I'm replacing mine 8 years after the PO replaced it, and he didn't put the lower bracket bolt back in. Should be a lot easier, just waiting for my PHH kit to arrive.

 

[woodsman 44]

My PHH just went out, took about 3-4 hours with rad drain and taking off front tire, un bolt tran tube and brake line and moved it over just a bit.

I did the wiggle hard tube trick till it broke off at the bracket...took a lot of back en forth to break but finally did

Bypass was a no brainer, used new Blue silicne 5/8s from Napa parts....if it ever fails again its and ezy pzy fix

 

[tarbe]

Bypass was a no brainer, used new Blue silicne 5/8s from Napa parts....if it ever fails again its and ezy pzy fix

Plus you have half as many connections vs re-using the hard tube. 2 possible leak points is better than 4.

 

[Pin_Head]

3 inches of hose is less likely to leak than 30 inches of hose flopping around and it costs 10X less. The hose looks ugly and it tends to break your heater control valve. Lose, lose lose. Just reuse the metal tube for your bypass and be happy for another 150,000 miles.

 

[swamp-thing]

agreed - not hard to do it right.... done and done.

 

[woodsman 44]

how many cases of bypass failing verses stupid 3" tube fail?...

 

[tarbe]

how many cases of bypass failing verses stupid 3" tube fail?...

Yup!

I ran my bypass inside an oversize heater hose and secured it.

No flapping, no chafing and I could change it on the side of the road in 10 minutes! But I will never have to!

I have done at least 4 bypasses (all different rigs) in the past 10 years. No failures, as expected.

 

[Pin_Head]

The bypass hose still looks ugly, the hose is 10 times more expensive and it causes the heater valve to break. Lose, lose, lose. If Toyota had wanted it to be ugly, it would have made it that way in the first place.

 

[woodsman 44]

Ugly is PHH FAIL

Cost?...$21 dollar fix is not expensive

Im more concerned about user friendly than looks, but that could just be me though....

 

[retrofive]

Each to their own. Both methods work. Been running the ugly version for several years now. No issue. I have the stock metal pipe sitting in my spare parts if I go back. Whichever whatever IMHO.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Each to their own. Both methods work. Been running the ugly version for several years now. No issue. I have the stock metal pipe sitting in my spare parts if I go back. Whichever whatever IMHO.

I replaced the assemblycomplete with pin clamp. Looks like it has never been changed
The trick to getting the lower bolt in is to use a short stud. It much easier to get a nut on the stud than a bolt through the bracket and find the hole.

 

[Pin_Head]

I replaced the assemblycomplete with pin clamp. Looks like it has never been changed

The OEM tube assembly is clearly the most aesthetically pleasing option. It is surprisingly affordable too.

Reusing the metal tube after breaking off the lower mounting tab and bypassing the thing with a hose are equally easy options with very little difference in reliability. It is a matter of personal preference. I was just having fun with people who are convinced that one is superior (but stopping well short of trolling).

 

[swamp-thing]

If you paid a shop to repair a failing phh, would you be equally as happy with a repair in the original location and a repair in the work around fashion? -- Assuming the repair cost is roughly the same, it just comes down to aesthetics. Just asking.....

 

[woodsman 44]

If it was a good mechanic that knew 80's ( ya, good luck.. Lol) I would hope he would give me the 2 options

The original version with more labor intensive with (4) clamps and 2 bolts ( one extremely hard to get off)...or...

The bypass version with (2) clamps and one hose

 

[swamp-thing]

....And what would you choose? Haha...