Personal Install Experience: 35’s

[jackhossross]

Hey mud, want to share my experience thus far fitting 35’s (Kenda Klever 35x10.5R17)

I am ordering 17x8 et:0 4x4Engineering Bradley Forged Takumi’s for my 1998 Land Cruiser. They will take awhile to get stateside.

In the interim, I am beginning to explore the nuances behind fitting 35’s under our trucks fenders.

Currently playing with Kansei 17x8.5 et:0 and the Kenda Klever tires. Like most others, needing to shave away the pinch weld, cut out some plastic.

However, it’s quite the squeeze all around. I’m not sure if the previous owner of my truck was embellishing the amount of lift installed with the OME shocks, but I’m surprised at how tight the fit is.

It does look rocking, however I want these things to perform as well. I was currently working on the pinch welds with my grinder but both neighbors across the street turned on their porch lights and im guessing it is due to the noice the angle grinder is emitting … at 11:35pm.

It is reassuring to know that the narrower Bradley Forged Takumi’s will fit narrower/closer to the hub, allowing the tire to tuck more, however I’m certainly unsure if I’m confident in going down this path now that I’m there.

 

[jackhossross]

Hey mud, want to share my experience thus far fitting 35’s (Kenda Klever 35x10.5R17)

I am ordering 17x8 et:0 4x4Engineering Bradley Forged Takumi’s for my 1998 Land Cruiser. They will take awhile to get stateside.

In the interim, I am beginning to explore the nuances behind fitting 35’s under our trucks fenders.

Currently playing with Kansei 17x8.5 et:0 and the Kenda Klever tires. Like most others, needing to shave away the pinch weld, cut out some plastic.

However, it’s quite the squeeze all around. I’m not sure if the previous owner of my truck was embellishing the amount of lift installed with the OME shocks, but I’m surprised at how tight the fit is.

It does look rocking, however I want these things to perform as well. I was currently working on the pinch welds with my grinder but both neighbors across the street turned on their porch lights and im guessing it is due to the noice the angle grinder is emitting … at 11:35pm.

It is reassuring to know that the narrower Bradley Forged Takumi’s will fit narrower/closer to the hub, allowing the tire to tuck more, however I’m certainly unsure if I’m confident in going down this path now that I’m there.

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Oh yeah, the trunk/middle seats are holding the 5 OEM wheels and 285/75R16 KO2’s, that’s the reason for the squat.

 

[GTV]

It’s the zero offset that’s causing you the most grief. Less offset = less problems.

You’ll get there, just keep nipping away at it.

 

[4Beast]

Hey mud, want to share my experience thus far fitting 35’s (Kenda Klever 35x10.5R17)

I am ordering 17x8 et:0 4x4Engineering Bradley Forged Takumi’s for my 1998 Land Cruiser. They will take awhile to get stateside.

In the interim, I am beginning to explore the nuances behind fitting 35’s under our trucks fenders.

Currently playing with Kansei 17x8.5 et:0 and the Kenda Klever tires. Like most others, needing to shave away the pinch weld, cut out some plastic.

However, it’s quite the squeeze all around. I’m not sure if the previous owner of my truck was embellishing the amount of lift installed with the OME shocks, but I’m surprised at how tight the fit is.

It does look rocking, however I want these things to perform as well. I was currently working on the pinch welds with my grinder but both neighbors across the street turned on their porch lights and im guessing it is due to the noice the angle grinder is emitting … at 11:35pm.

It is reassuring to know that the narrower Bradley Forged Takumi’s will fit narrower/closer to the hub, allowing the tire to tuck more, however I’m certainly unsure if I’m confident in going down this path now that I’m there.

View attachment 3157804

View attachment 3157805

View attachment 3157806

View attachment 3157807

FWIW lift doesn't apparently matter, unless it's a body lift.

 

[jackhossross]

It’s the zero offset that’s causing you the most grief. Less offset = less problems.

You’ll get there, just keep nipping away at it.

Thanks - it truly is trimming away at the pinch weld by the runners .. and then some trim where the OEM fog lights sat prior to my front bumper install.

I am also not one to shy away from modding to fit rubber, on my last couple performance cars (BMW M2, VW Golf R) I was stretching, rolling and fussing with alignment to get wide rubber on the rears.

According to a few calcs, by switching to the 8" width of the 4x4Engineering wheels I will suck another 6mm on the outer edge of the tire towards the center of the truck - so that will help as well from a "tuck" standpoint.

There are a few vehicles I have been modeling my build after, this being one of them. It has a wide wheel, wide tire with a not great offset, felt like I was going to have a easier time going about it with this precedent set, but perhaps I need to look at adjusting my suspension/going with a new suspension set up.

100 Series Build - Offroadium

FWIW lift doesn't apparently matter, unless it's a body lift.

I've always been a bit confused by this, but I need to dig into it more on the forum.

 

[4Beast]

Thanks - it truly is trimming away at the pinch weld by the runners .. and then some trim where the OEM fog lights sat prior to my front bumper install.

I am also not one to shy away from modding to fit rubber, on my last couple performance cars (BMW M2, VW Golf R) I was stretching, rolling and fussing with alignment to get wide rubber on the rears.

According to a few calcs, by switching to the 8" width of the 4x4Engineering wheels I will suck another 6mm on the outer edge of the tire towards the center of the truck - so that will help as well from a "tuck" standpoint.

There are a few vehicles I have been modeling my build after, this being one of them. It has a wide wheel, wide tire with a not great offset, felt like I was going to have a easier time going about it with this precedent set, but perhaps I need to look at adjusting my suspension/going with a new suspension set up.

100 Series Build - Offroadium


I've always been a bit confused by this, but I need to dig into it more on the forum.

It's because the lift doesn't change the suspension geometry as far as the top and bottom, only where it starts in that range, so if it is going to rub stuffed at full lock, it will do so regardless of if it started from a lifted or stock position. Body lifts offer clearance independent of the suspension travel.

 

[hoser]

According to a few calcs, by switching to the 8" width of the 4x4Engineering wheels I will suck another 6mm on the outer edge of the tire towards the center of the truck - so that will help as well from a "tuck" standpoint.

There are a few vehicles I have been modeling my build after, this being one of them. It has a wide wheel, wide tire with a not great offset, felt like I was going to have a easier time going about it with this precedent set, but perhaps I need to look at adjusting my suspension/going with a new suspension set up.

100 Series Build - Offroadium

The wheel width won't matter much as the tire is centered on the rim. The critical contact point is the tire's shoulder area. With that tire/wheel offset combination, you'll likely need some combination of cutting the fender and maybe modifying the wheel well area (near the pinch weld).... not just trimming the pinch weld but clearancing a portion of the firewall and/or body lift. Some people are also adding bumpstops to the front.... which reduces travel. The BOSS method is to just cut the fenders.

P.S. Those Method wheels in your inspiration build link are probably 25mm offset.

Below: 35x11.5 on +28mm offset. Not even compressed all the way. Just AHC LOW and parked on a mound.

 

[jackhossross]

The wheel width won't matter much as the tire is centered on the rim. The critical contact point is the tire's shoulder area. With that tire/wheel offset combination, you'll likely need some combination of cutting the fender and maybe modifying the wheel well area (near the pinch weld).... not just trimming the pinch weld but clearancing a portion of the firewall and/or body lift. Some people are also adding bumpstops to the front.... which reduces travel. The BOSS method is to just cut the fenders.

P.S. Those Method wheels in your inspiration build link are probably 25mm offset.

Below: 35x11.5 on +28mm offset. Not even compressed all the way. Just AHC LOW and parked on a mound.

Thanks for the commentary. From fighting to fit race tires under my M2, the width does make a difference in addition with the offset. It certainly does not have the same impact (1:1 mm ratio, I agree with you .. unfortunately offset is a much more influential specification) however, when I was fighting millimeters of clearance with my M2 rubber, I was searching for every bit of clearance I could.

I wish there were forged options in your offset range .. (assuming the image above is yours).

I have been taking an angle grinder to my pinch weld, its the last location needing more "room" at this point.

 

[GTV]

Many years ago I measured a 215/65 on a 7” rim then had the same tire mounted on a 6” rim. With the tire laying flat on the ground with the 7” rim the section width measured 5/8” wider than the 6”. It does make a difference but in your case, where you are needing clearance I doubt that it matters.

 

[hoser]

It makes a different in the tire's section width, very minimal to shoulder width. Your set-up up won't clear the shoulder to fender lip. The shoulder is more critical than the section width at this point.

I have street/track cars as well. The method of fitting tires is different. The road vehicle is going for tire width and the sidewall is often stretched. The off-road vehicle is going for maximum tire diameter and the sidewall is.... well... the opposite of stretched.

For custom forged off-road wheels, look into Braid. I've spent money on forged HRE wheels for my track car but personally, I wouldn't spend that kind of coin on an off-road vehicle unless I was racing it.

 

[jackhossross]

It makes a different in the tire's section width, very minimal to shoulder width. Your set-up up won't clear the shoulder to fender lip. The shoulder is more critical than the section width at this point.

I have street/track cars as well. The method of fitting tires is different. The road vehicle is going for tire width and the sidewall is often stretched. The off-road vehicle is going for maximum tire diameter and the sidewall is.... well... the opposite of stretched.

For custom forged off-road wheels, look into Braid. I've spent money on forged HRE wheels for my track car but personally, I wouldn't spend that kind of coin on an off-road vehicle unless I was racing it.

In agreement across the board …

 

[trdcorolla]

The wheel width won't matter much as the tire is centered on the rim. The critical contact point is the tire's shoulder area. With that tire/wheel offset combination, you'll likely need some combination of cutting the fender and maybe modifying the wheel well area (near the pinch weld).... not just trimming the pinch weld but clearancing a portion of the firewall and/or body lift. Some people are also adding bumpstops to the front.... which reduces travel. The BOSS method is to just cut the fenders.

P.S. Those Method wheels in your inspiration build link are probably 25mm offset.

Below: 35x11.5 on +28mm offset. Not even compressed all the way. Just AHC LOW and parked on a mound.

Off topic but how would 34x10.5 (C load) on a 17x8 +30 fit on a LX470 with a .25" AHC lift? My front is at 20" and my rear is 21" center hub to fender. I would love 34.5's (285/75/17's) but don't want to deal with E load tires weight/harshness and modifying my wheel well (which doesn't make sense since I already cut off other things on my 100, haha)

 

[GTV]

Off topic but how would 34x10.5 (C load) on a 17x8 +30 fit on a LX470 with a .25" AHC lift? My front is at 20" and my rear is 21" center hub to fender. I would love 34.5's (285/75/17's) but don't want to deal with E load tires weight/harshness and modifying my wheel well (which doesn't make sense since I already cut off other things on my 100, haha)

+30 is a lot better than the OP’s zero but if you don’t want to modify your wheel well stick with 33’s.

 

[hoser]

@trdcorolla I think that would be a great combination but I would still be prepared to trim or accept an occasional rub. Ask those folks running 275/70R18 for their clearance areas and then add 1/2" and a bit more for bushing deflection.

 

[Slickspawn]

Take it to a body shop. Articulate, trim, fill, weld, voila.

 

[MongooseGA]

I found that flattening the pinch weld was not enough to run 35x12.50 on a Rock Warrior with 1.5" spacer (effective +12). The spacer was required to clear the FUCAs, and cutting the lower part of the front fenders was required to clear the tires turning just on flat ground.

With the little section I trimmed, there's zero rubbing on or off road. I heat formed the cladding to match the new profile.

Prior to this set I had 285/75/17s (34ish) on the same wheels/ spacers and was fine with just the flattened pinch weld.

 

[Slickspawn]

Nice! And the cladding trim and reshape looks OE. I like it!

 

[MountaineerLC]

Thanks - it truly is trimming away at the pinch weld by the runners .. and then some trim where the OEM fog lights sat prior to my front bumper install.

I am also not one to shy away from modding to fit rubber, on my last couple performance cars (BMW M2, VW Golf R) I was stretching, rolling and fussing with alignment to get wide rubber on the rears.

According to a few calcs, by switching to the 8" width of the 4x4Engineering wheels I will suck another 6mm on the outer edge of the tire towards the center of the truck - so that will help as well from a "tuck" standpoint.

There are a few vehicles I have been modeling my build after, this being one of them. It has a wide wheel, wide tire with a not great offset, felt like I was going to have a easier time going about it with this precedent set, but perhaps I need to look at adjusting my suspension/going with a new suspension set up.

100 Series Build - Offroadium


I've always been a bit confused by this, but I need to dig into it more on the forum.

In simple terms, lift on an IFS vehicle only changes the neutral point of the wheel not its overall travel. If "A" is full compression, "C" is full droop and "B" is your tire. Lift only changes where "B" rests in that range.

Coming from solid axles vehicles, I took me a while to grasp this with the IFS 100.

 

[jackhossross]

In simple terms, lift on an IFS vehicle only changes the neutral point of the wheel not its overall travel. If "A" is full compression, "C" is full droop and "B" is your tire. Lift only changes where "B" rests in that range.

Coming from solid axles vehicles, I took me a while to grasp this with the IFS 100.

Last vehicle is a 1989 FJ62, so yes I’ve had a hard time getting this too.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I've always been a bit confused by this, but I need to dig into it more on the forum.

It's not necessarily an IFS thing so much as a 100 thing. If the minimum clearnace points are front, rear, inside/outside then lifting won't help change those. Lifting can help reduce contact above the tire, but that's not the problem with the 100. You run out of clearance in basically all other directions before you make contact above so lifting is largely irrelevant for tire fitment on a 100. As @MountaineerLC says above, you're also not necessarily changing the bounds of wheel travel unless you also add a bumpstop to reduce travel.

Forged wheels in any offset you desire:

BRAID Forged 4x4

Desert Racing, Gravel Rally, Off-Road Racing, Overland, Rallycross, Rally Raid, Street. [split] BRAID's range of Forged competition wheels are designed to survive the rigors of competition but are equally at home on the street. BRAID forged wheels are made of a light alloy enabling optimal...

braidusa.com

or

BRAID Forged UR4

Desert Racing, Gravel Rally, Off-Road Racing, Overland, Rallycross, Rally Raid, Street. [split] BRAID's range of Forged competition wheels are designed to survive the rigors of competition but are equally at home on the street. BRAID forged wheels are made of a light alloy enabling optimal...

braidusa.com

with beadlock: BRAID Forged UR4 Beadlock A - https://braidusa.com/collections/off-road/products/braid-forged-ur4-beadlock-a?variant=42572337774747