Patina Appreciation: Show Us Your Rusty Land Cruiser! (9 Viewers)

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Have you guys seen Proffitt’s resto-patina project? Pretty baddazz.

Here is the link to the rig: “The Red Menace” 1962 Stage 3 Patina Restoration - Proffitt's Resurrection Land Cruisers

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Original paint and pin stripes. July/77 California spec. I used to dislike the pin stripes but now if I ever repaint I'll have the stripes redone in vinyl and applied.

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Engine bay. I've since found the CA spec elbow for the air cleaner.
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I always thought my patina was sort of ugly (just like people, some trucks age better than others). I can only describe my paint job as looking like someone, at some point, drove behind a gravel truck for 500 miles or so. It's definitely not the nice, patchy surface rust "sunburns" pictured here, but I think it's doing pretty well for spending the last 10 years on the East Coast. It's still an ongoing personal debate as to how long I'll keep the original paint. On one hand, it's only original once. On the other hand - the east coast, road salt, and bare metal don't get along.

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I always thought my patina was sort of ugly (just like people, some trucks age better than others). I can only describe my paint job as looking like someone, at some point, drove behind a gravel truck for 500 miles or so. It's definitely not the nice, patchy surface rust "sunburns" pictured here, but I think it's doing pretty well for spending the last 10 years on the East Coast. It's still an ongoing personal debate as to how long I'll keep the original paint. On one hand, it's only original once. On the other hand - the east coast, road salt, and bare metal don't get along.

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Still looks less rotten than mine, and mine lives 40 miles from sierra arms arms depot where they store metal for preservation
 
Anybody ever tried Boeshield T-9? It goes on oily, then dries to a very thin waxy finish. Developed by Boeing for keeping parts from rusting before install. Awesome stuff for tools and fishing gear. Not sure if the waxy finish would attract too much dirt. Spendy, but I might try some on some of my exterior exposed metal. I've used Barricade gun rust protector on small parts as I wire wheel them to keep them from getting rusty again before I put the truck back together. Pretty similar, but I like the Boeshield better. Just need to order some more.

Boeshield uses "paraffin wax and solvent carrier," according to their website. I used to be a professional blacksmith assistant for a brief moment. Some of my job was to go around finished ironwork with a propane torch and paraffin wax so the driveway gates, etc., would minimally rust. Paraffin melts at 99 deg. F, so it might be possible to use candle wax in the right weather, or, when you can apply minimal heat. It really absorbs well into steel.
 
63 FST. Garaged but looking to protect the patina it has. Used CLR to clean it up originally. Bows,doors and headers aren’t original to the truck and trying to figure out how to get them back to lily white but still have the look. Do I dare attemp a fake patina on those parts? Strip parts, Red primer and flat lily white sanded back down to reveal some red primer.

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63 FST. Garaged but looking to protect the patina it has. Used CLR to clean it up originally. Bows,doors and headers aren’t original to the truck and trying to figure out how to get them back to lily white but still have the look. Do I dare attemp a fake patina on those parts? Strip parts, Red primer and flat lily white sanded back down to reveal some red primer.

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She's a beauty!

I sort of understand your predicament...I have a FST as well, and the FST doors I have are not original to the truck. Have not decided how to approach that one yet.

Whatever you do, don't paint that truck...it's awesome!
 
Not to worry I am NOT painting this truck. Friends and family ask if I am going to paint it and I just wonder in amazement why they would even say that. It took 55 years to make it look that good so I don’t want to change that. Of course it was from New Mexico so I worry about the humidity and cold wet winters. Only drive it on warm winter days after the rains have washed the salt off the roads.
 
Not to worry I am NOT painting this truck. Friends and family ask if I am going to paint it and I just wonder in amazement why they would even say that. It took 55 years to make it look that good so I don’t want to change that. Of course it was from New Mexico so I worry about the humidity and cold wet winters. Only drive it on warm winter days after the rains have washed the salt off the roads.

I had some guy ask me to sell him my tailgate the other day. Said it was rough but he’d take it.

Wtf?

I get the paint thing all the time. They just don’t get it
 
I had some guy ask me to sell him my tailgate the other day. Said it was rough but he’d take it.

Wtf?

I get the paint thing all the time. They just don’t get it
Been following your posts on the “goat” PLEASE keep us in the loop on your BLO experiment. I am sure many of us in this thread are Interested to see how it holds up to your weather and how it holds up over time. Already subscribed on the rust converter and will be ordering it. Have you ever used the brush on material?
 
Been following your posts on the “goat” PLEASE keep us in the loop on your BLO experiment. I am sure many of us in this thread are Interested to see how it holds up to your weather and how it holds up over time. Already subscribed on the rust converter and will be ordering it. Have you ever used the brush on material?

No. I have used about 40
Cans of spray in 5 different Cruisers though.
 
So what are the best ways to rust proof it without ruining it/maintain the look without it rusting further?
Im thinking get the panels off. Wirebrush and treat the chassis and make a good job of it. Treat panels somehow and put them back on.
Any advice would be great!
 
Would rust converter be preferable to blasting the frame and powder coating it? I'm really not sure what the structural issues created by ablation versus converted rust would be
 

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