Passenger side front door needs adjusting forward. (1 Viewer)

[Av8erB]

Hi folks,

I am putting my doors back on, after having them off for almost 2 years. The driver side closes just fine, which is great, but the door stiker on the passenger side is hitting the door and I can not see how to adjust the hinges that would allow the door move forward enough to allow it not to happen. By forward , I mean more towards the front of the vehicle.

The one solution I thought of, would be to add some washers behind the hinge plates to move them forward a bit.

The striker doesn't seem to allow for any adjustment except towards the interior or exterior, which is not what I need.

I adjusted the hinges on the door to be as far back as possible so it would sit more forward on the frame hinges.

Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks

 

[igotta40]

If there is no more adjustment then I would be tempted to use a bottle jack to expand the door opening a few millimeters

 

[Av8erB]

If there is no more adjustment then I would be tempted to use a bottle jack to expand the door opening a few millimeters

Do I just get a shorter strike then?

 

[igotta40]

Do I just get a shorter strike then?

I don’t understand the question. Do you mean buy a new strike that is shorter?

 

[Mr. Green]

Loosen hinge bolts on outside of door skin and shut. Then retighten when happy with placement.

 

[SteveH]

Can you egg out (technical term: 'waller') the holes on the door hinges to allow the door to move further forward?

It might help if you had a photo of the side of the truck showing the current door placement vs. the A pillar (leading edge of the door).

 

[pb4ugo]

Have you measured each door opening for comparison? It looks like that door has been making contact with the striker for a while. What's the condition of the pins and bushings? They might not be the fix, but might help a little.

 

[Av8erB]

Have you measured each door opening for comparison? It looks like that door has been making contact with the striker for a while. What's the condition of the pins and bushings? They might not be the fix, but might help a little.

I have not I will get to that next week. I can not remember it being an issue when I had the doors on previously though but yes the wear marks do indicate it has been an issue.

 

[Av8erB]

Loosen hinge bolts on outside of door skin and shut. Then retighten when happy with placement.

I like this idea I may try that

 

[Av8erB]

Can you egg out (technical term: 'waller') the holes on the door hinges to allow the door to move further forward?

It might help if you had a photo of the side of the truck showing the current door placement vs. the A pillar (leading edge of the door).

Good idea if it comes to that. Thanks

 

[Av8erB]

So... Little update. I put the door on the hinges loosened the bolts on the door itself and proceeded to hammer a block of wood on the catch side of the door too try and force it as far forward as possible.

No luck forcing it any father forward. I think there must be an issue with the frame or something.

@SteveH mentioned egging out the holes. I have a couple of question to you though. How can I egg them out? On the other side of the door panel must be a sliding nut or a nut of some sort. Which type is it?

I would hate to take the access panel off on the other side but if your recommendation is to do that then I supposed I will be forced to.

 

[charliemeyer007]

No clue what type of nut or threaded hole there is. I would assume you had the hinge bolts loose when you were trying to move the door forward - so I'd be ruling out sliding, more likely fixed nuts. So the other option could be slotting the holes in the hinge, or bending the hinges.

Your pic's leave a lot to be desired IMHO about what is the issue. Myself I would be looking at the latch loop. Mine has washers as shims and loose shouldered screws for adjustment. Know any body people? I'd bet for $100 they could fix it enough to work nice on their coffee break - unless the frame is so bent its untweakable.

 

[Mr. Green]

Hinge plate could be sticky to door if it hasn’t ever been removed. Before pounding in it again, remove one entirely to check. The rubber gasket dries if original and can be stubborn.

 

[SteveH]

@SteveH mentioned egging out the holes. I have a couple of question to you though. How can I egg them out? On the other side of the door panel must be a sliding nut or a nut of some sort. Which type is it?

The door has captive nuts and should be left alone. The hinge flap has elongated holes that you could further elongate with a round file, as shown in this crude mockup. This will move the door toward the front of the truck. Beware that moving the door forward may cause it to become too close to the windshield frame - all such modifications may have undesired consequences.

You need to post much better photos of your door situation at the front hinges to get more help from us. Take a photo of the entire door (just the door) as mounted on the truck, as 'closed' as you can make the door.

 

[Mr. Green]

Also, since you have one side that works and one that doesn’t measure and compare side vs side… you’ll likely find the issue in there somewhere and the solution will present itself.

 

[MOTOV8R]

What does your door to tub gap look like (driver and passenger). Can you take some pics?

 

[bikersmurf]

Will the door close if you take the striker off?

Also, over time the cowl will start to lean backwards. I’ve had to push it forward with a high lift jack and a block of wood. A tape measure would help determine why it doesn’t fit.

 

[69LC]

How are the body mounts? Are the tub and cowl supported or sagging?