Pass-Through Connector / Housing Q for Engineering and Fabrication Folk (1 Viewer)

[mudgudgeon]

DUDE. So glad you've cleared a trail this far. I'm after exactly what you're after - single connection to rack when mounted, clean water-tight and 'invisible' capped end when the rack is off. Been chasing this for over 2 years now.
Completely against drilling holes in the roof. However, given every other option that's been suggested or that I can conjure, I don't see any way around it.

Soooo...the best thing I've found is aviation connectors, particularly one with a 90deg bend. I haven't proceeded with the rest of it as I haven't had time to suss out the headliner removal w/o damaging it to run the cables to the underside of the roof. But...using this -
Amazon product ASIN B07B7LTQR6
- the elbow is on the rack end of cabling, with the roof end being the flat bit with the water tight cap.

Caveats thus far is the cap will need a dab of silicon due to the cable stay being connected thru the cap (small gap there) and the elbow is a split body affair requiring some kind of full sealing - perhaps silicon, or very large adhesive-lined heat shrink to wrap the body of the connector with.

The position of the pass-thru is centered at the rear of the roof, yet still underneath the rack (for protection and security), with the elbow facing rearward. This is so that all cabling on the rack can be routed to the rear-center of the rack, and straight into the elbow. Facing the elbow forward would require the wiring to loop rearward then back forward into the elbow.

Remove the rack and you just have the small, flat end with the cap for a very low-profile and nearly invisible capped off connector.

I can take pics of the connector (just placed for referrence) on the roof for an idea of what I'm talking about.

This fitting has an IP20 rating.
The 2 means protection against ingress of solids 12mm across.
The 0 means zero protection against water ingress.

You're 100% relying on whatever sealant you apply to the fitting.
There doesn't appear to be any seal in the cap, and no seal on the threaded coupling, or threaded connections.
Sealing it reliably and cleanly in a durable way could be a challenge, particularly if it's something you're going to disturb with removal of the rack.

 

[LandLocked93]

You're 100% relying on whatever sealant you apply to the fitting.

Unfortunately, yes.

There doesn't appear to be any seal in the cap, and no seal on the threaded coupling, or threaded connections.
Sealing it reliably and cleanly in a durable way could be a challenge, particularly if it's something you're going to disturb with removal of the rack.

Also, yes. Still on the hunt for something more readily sealed/sealable. But this format at least seems to fit the bill.

 

[LandLocked93]

Not to be swimming in Chinesium but maybe this would be a better option. Certainly not against paying more for a more legit, US-made (or AU-made) unit.
Amazon product ASIN B07FY7CW3F

 

[jaymar]

DUDE. So glad you've cleared a trail this far. I'm after exactly what you're after - single connection to rack when mounted, clean water-tight and 'invisible' capped end when the rack is off. Been chasing this for over 2 years now.
Completely against drilling holes in the roof. However, given every other option that's been suggested or that I can conjure, I don't see any way around it.

Soooo...the best thing I've found is aviation connectors, particularly one with a 90deg bend. I haven't proceeded with the rest of it as I haven't had time to suss out the headliner removal w/o damaging it to run the cables to the underside of the roof. But...using this -
Amazon product ASIN B07B7LTQR6
- the elbow is on the rack end of cabling, with the roof end being the flat bit with the water tight cap.

Caveats thus far is the cap will need a dab of silicon due to the cable stay being connected thru the cap (small gap there) and the elbow is a split body affair requiring some kind of full sealing - perhaps silicon, or very large adhesive-lined heat shrink to wrap the body of the connector with.

The position of the pass-thru is centered at the rear of the roof, yet still underneath the rack (for protection and security), with the elbow facing rearward. This is so that all cabling on the rack can be routed to the rear-center of the rack, and straight into the elbow. Facing the elbow forward would require the wiring to loop rearward then back forward into the elbow.

Remove the rack and you just have the small, flat end with the cap for a very low-profile and nearly invisible capped off connector.

I can take pics of the connector (just placed for referrence) on the roof for an idea of what I'm talking about.

Dunno what rack you're running, but if it's even possible you may want to store something under it, like a camp table, consider placing the pass-through to one side, likely PS if running Joey's QPM. Also less visible over there. I'd also be concerned about sealing the stuff you're talking about. Whichever way you go--don't forget the installation pics!

 

[LandLocked93]

Dunno what rack you're running, but if it's even possible you may want to store something under it, like a camp table, consider placing the pass-through to one side, likely PS if running Joey's QPM. Also less visible over there. I'd also be concerned about sealing the stuff you're talking about. Whichever way you go--don't forget the installation pics!

No room below. Rack sits about 1mm above the center rib. That said tho, the first elbow mentioned still sits just below the rack floor, so no snagging. The other elbow listed would be better than that I suspect.
And yeah, sealing is a concern for the first elbow.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Not to be swimming in Chinesium but maybe this would be a better option. Certainly not against paying more for a more legit, US-made (or AU-made) unit.
Amazon product ASIN B07FY7CW3F

It looks like it includes o-ring seals at all the junctions.

From install point of view, the sharp 90⁰ elbow will limit how much cable you can stuff through it.

I like the square flange on the bulkhead fitting of the first one for secure fixing to the roof, but it also means four more holes penetrating the roof that need to be sealed.

Tough decision!

In terms of AU quality, I think you'd be hard pressed to find an Aussie product in this category that wasn't made in China.

 

[thatcabledude]

This fitting has an IP20 rating.
The 2 means protection against ingress of solids 12mm across.
The 0 means zero protection against water ingress.

You're 100% relying on whatever sealant you apply to the fitting.
There doesn't appear to be any seal in the cap, and no seal on the threaded coupling, or threaded connections.
Sealing it reliably and cleanly in a durable way could be a challenge, particularly if it's something you're going to disturb with removal of the rack.

^This

I deal with IP68 rated stuff daily and even it gets water ingress/corrosion at times.