Fixed.
Pass-Through Connector / Housing Q for Engineering and Fabrication Folk (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jaymar
- Start date
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Police and emergency services vehicles here in Australia typically have a single lights and sirens bar that crosses the roof at the B pillar line.
Cabling enters the vehicle as a flat (ish) ribbon that wraps over the gutter, and down the outer face of the B pillar.
When does are closed, cabling is tucked away behind the door frames, and enters into the body low on the B pillar, or at floor level.
Some high quality fabric duct tape would secure cabling to the pillar more or less forever. And if you think you want to remove the rack, set up connectors in the B pillar area just above the top door hinge
Cabling enters the vehicle as a flat (ish) ribbon that wraps over the gutter, and down the outer face of the B pillar.
When does are closed, cabling is tucked away behind the door frames, and enters into the body low on the B pillar, or at floor level.
Some high quality fabric duct tape would secure cabling to the pillar more or less forever. And if you think you want to remove the rack, set up connectors in the B pillar area just above the top door hinge
- Thread starter
- #23
I wrote: "I'll have to take a look at that in daylight."
Couldn't wait; went out and looked at 2am. You know that might just work, with a flattened wire bundle, outer sheathing the same color as the body. Be really hard to see. Can you think of anything that might serve as a stiff guide, enclosing the wire bundle just at that point where it passes the hatch edge? Would have to attach without drilling. This would keep the wires from bunching and getting crunched. Wires can come up into either QP from underneath.
You may have preserved the roof's honor, Sir...
100 Pack Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts 3.6mm x 19mm SAMB19
These adhesive cable tie mounts are the perfect partner for our cable ties. Simply stick them to a surface, and pull a cable tie through to open up heaps more installation options!
www.selby.com.au
Cable ties are easily removed/replaced, tie the bastard down tight enough near the top and you should be able to aim the wires in such a way that they'll clear everything when you open & close the hatch. More of them the whole way down, not the prettiest but they're removable later. What colour is the car?
- Thread starter
- #25
What color? Seems like a simple question, but... Do you mean where the clear coat is still intact, or where it's not? Paint job will be part of the makeover--but first things first. Yeah, will def need something prettier down the road, but it looks like these will do for initial routing. I wonder if there's room for connectors in that strut-space, so the QP entry point can remain sealed all the time and not be messed with. Damn, it's 3am, I'd better be off... Thanks again!100 Pack Self Adhesive Cable Tie Mounts 3.6mm x 19mm SAMB19
These adhesive cable tie mounts are the perfect partner for our cable ties. Simply stick them to a surface, and pull a cable tie through to open up heaps more installation options!
Cable ties are easily removed/replaced, tie the bastard down tight enough near the top and you should be able to aim the wires in such a way that they'll clear everything when you open & close the hatch. More of them the whole way down, not the prettiest but they're removable later. What colour is the car?
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This?
You are over thinking this whole process.
In reality, you will probably not remove the rack very often.
Your light wire bundle, from the rack, could come down the A pillar. The connector could be attached to the cowl vent. Yes you put a hole in the cowl vent. But it’s not into the passenger compartment. And the cowl vent could easily be replaced vs welding up or patching a hole on the passenger compartment of the body.
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iptman
SILVER Star
Seen these?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If you're worried about getting power from inside the truck to the roof, Toyota already did that. It's in the liftgate. Open it and look up. As far as sealing the connectors when they're unplugged, just about all cannon plugs have waterproof caps, secured with a rubber ring around the plug.
- Thread starter
- #29
Good points, but I want the wiring as close to invisible as possible.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Nice find.Seen these?
- Thread starter
- #31
Yeah I can see opening that up, making it bigger and using that. Question is--how much bigger to accommodate connectors. And then I have to fish them all through that hole every time. If I didn't want the quick-disc, though, that would be perfect!
slightly different requirements but the cables from my solar panel on the roof rack run through simple cable glands. It works really well.
- Thread starter
- #33
Pics?
Funny. But...let's say Joey wanted to light up his life with a part-time roof rack. "Industry standard" would be right out the window...
Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck. DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #35
Ha, excellent find! As to going in through the vent housing, on the one hand I like it, on the other it's more visible/snagable and--of greater concern--if it leaks, it is (so far as I can see) a potential hazard to everything on the QPM. Water is channeled directly at the wire entry. Then there are those pesky connectors... Very neat products, though; lemme think about that...
Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck. DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If...
Although… If a U-bend is worked into the cable at a strategic location, any water following the cable inside should drip off the bottom and not follow the cable back up to the QPM. Or maybe just filp the Scanstrut on the outside so the cable enters up instead of down. I don’t know I’m kind of liking this now. I still don’t like stranded cable ends on the rooftop though.
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Basically a less flash version of the scanstrut products linked above. These are used extensively in industrial applications. Came across them when I was working in environmental monitoring, used them lots to seal cable entrances to data logger housings etc. They’re cheap, easy to install and seal really well.
- Thread starter
- #37
Well for the record and posterity’s sake—what are they?
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- Thread starter
- #39
Okay this Scanstrut stuff about has me sold. Which means, as some have suggested, that--like it or not--those connectors are just gonna hafta stay on the roof. So, Bonus Question:
Is anyone aware of some kind of slick little aerodynamic watertight housing that can stick on the roof (without admitting water underneath) and provide a home for those connectors and the leftover wiring? Maybe something teardrop-shaped, gasketed lid, with a hole at the back for the wire bundle...
Is anyone aware of some kind of slick little aerodynamic watertight housing that can stick on the roof (without admitting water underneath) and provide a home for those connectors and the leftover wiring? Maybe something teardrop-shaped, gasketed lid, with a hole at the back for the wire bundle...
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