I probably would not drill through the roof. I would probably run it down the a pillar instead in a clean way of some sort. I've avoided light bars on the roof because I've heard the glare is bad
Pass-Through Connector / Housing Q for Engineering and Fabrication Folk
- Thread starter jaymar
- Start date
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mudgudgeon
Resident galah
This?
Personally, I'd avoid it like the plague.
I'd avoid making a hole in the roof like the plague in general though.
That cable port ^^^ is relying on either the gasket supplied ( would not trust) or sealant.
The gasket is quite narrow under the edges at the large hole.
You're relying on grip strength of self- tappers through sheet metal to compress a rubber?? gasket adequately to permanently seal. Not great IMO.
Unless you punch screw holes through the roof (which will distort the roof panel), as you tap screws into sheet metal, the threads will pull the roof metal up around the screw making it even harder to get that rubber to seal.
Movement and vibration will cause the rubber to fret, letting water find it's way under the rubber.
Eventually screws will rust, or roof panel will rust, or screws will lose tension letting the gasket leak.
My 2c
- Thread starter
- #43
Come now, don't mince words; tell us what you really think!
Agree that going through the roof is problematical; until folks pointed this option (below) out, I just saw no choice. Now I'm thinking to run it through the vent housing, as shown in the thread below. 'Possibly' inverted, with a U-bend in the cable before entry to shed any water that might otherwise (one day) follow the cable into the housing. If I wanted to go through the roof, I'd use the one that Joey's been using (also in the thread below). If it's good enough for him...
Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck. DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If...
forum.ih8mud.com
Another thing to consider is how many wires you actually require running to the roof…
In theory, you only need one single 12v (ground could potentially be picked up through the rack itself.
Then just run a remote Bluetooth relay transmission box (so signals can be sent remotely).
Then it’s just a matter of coming up with an elegant black wire which should be much harder to see… and makes the connector choices much simplier
Or alternatively, put a decent sized lithium battery and solar panel on the roof, depending on your usage might not need any wires lol
In theory, you only need one single 12v (ground could potentially be picked up through the rack itself.
Then just run a remote Bluetooth relay transmission box (so signals can be sent remotely).
Then it’s just a matter of coming up with an elegant black wire which should be much harder to see… and makes the connector choices much simplier
Or alternatively, put a decent sized lithium battery and solar panel on the roof, depending on your usage might not need any wires lol
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Come now, don't mince words; tell us what you really think!
Sorry for the cynicism. I've been paid a lot of money over the years to fix leaks with all sorts of IP rated fittings, and various penetrations through metal roofs
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
- Thread starter
- #47
No man, bring it on! Seriously. What are your thoughts on the vent-frame mount from the other thread?
I used to work building caravans. We used a crazy amount of silicon and sika to keep those things water tight, and just as much again when they came back 12 months later with water ingress problems.
- Thread starter
- #49
These Scanstruts in particular, or supposedly watertight fittings in general?
Sorry, didn't mean to scare you off the idea, the problems were mostly from poor fitment. Loads of sealant applied poorly was the issue, only takes a pinhole gap to cause problems in those vans so sealing stuff as quickly as possible to boost production numbers just bit us in the arse later. Take your time and seal it all up thoroughly, should be fine, can check for water ingress with a hose.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think it's better than punching holes in the roof.
The way @mingles installed it is probably less vulnerable to leaks, more comfortable to damage in the bush
If the rubber between the plastic vent and body is soft and pliable I think it would seal better than on a horizontal sheet metal surface.
I think if these were installed on a fibreglass boat, or something sturdier than a sheet metal car panel, chances of getting then to scree down tight on the gasket are gonna be better
I'd look hard at going through the rear tail gate gap, or down a door pillar and into the body through a door aperture
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
I think the fixture Joey used looks like a quality product. It's just way more holes than I'd be putting in the roof of there was any other option.
I personally don't see enough value in having permanently mounted lights above the roof.
Light bar glaring off the hood is hard on the eyes while driving at night.
Camping lights, I prefer them to be portable, and less bright. You can have way too much light while camping IMO
I know everyone has their own ideas about their ideal set up. Do what you think is gonna work for you
I personally don't see enough value in having permanently mounted lights above the roof.
Light bar glaring off the hood is hard on the eyes while driving at night.
Camping lights, I prefer them to be portable, and less bright. You can have way too much light while camping IMO
I know everyone has their own ideas about their ideal set up. Do what you think is gonna work for you
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Constant expansion and contraction of varying degrees because of differing materials. Odds are high you’ll have a leak at some point no matter what you use.
- Thread starter
- #54
Unless you swap it out before that happens.
mingles
GOLD Star
I don’t get back into 80s tech forum as frequently now, so just saw this thread.Come now, don't mince words; tell us what you really think!
Agree that going through the roof is problematical; until folks pointed this option (below) out, I just saw no choice. Now I'm thinking to run it through the vent housing, as shown in the thread below. 'Possibly' inverted, with a U-bend in the cable before entry to shed any water that might otherwise (one day) follow the cable into the housing. If I wanted to go through the roof, I'd use the one that Joey's been using (also in the thread below). If it's good enough for him...
Solar Wire Pass-Thru -Scanstrut Cable Gland
Finally got rid of my temporary solar wire setup and used a Scanstrut cable gland to get the wire into the truck. DS-H10-BLK Horizontal Cable Seal Power Boat - https://www.scanstrut.com/marine/power-boat/cable-seal/horizontal/ds-h10-blk All the penetrations are through the RR window vent. If...
Update on my Scanstrut installation - I’m at well over 100 high pressure automated car washes (with brushes), numerous power washing/ heavy rains, and still no leaks or loose wires. The brushes pass right over the solar wiring and never snag the harness.
I am also of the mind that the only thing electrical that needs to be on my rack is the solar panel. The panel sits inset into the rack and the wiring is nearly invisible unless you are looking for it. Other than the fact that it is a LC, there is nothing flashy to attract attention.
- Thread starter
- #56
Hey, thanks for the update. You get salt air, or too far away? Inset in the rack--so you can use the rack with the panel in place?
mingles
GOLD Star
Occasionally at the coast but no regular salt exposure.
Yes. The panel sits below the rack rails so there is full use of the rack if you need it.
- Thread starter
- #58
Never thought of that. What rack are you running? Thanks again.
- Thread starter
- #59
Interesting roof-drill posts from another thread...
forum.ih8mud.com
Wits' End Accessory Mounting Quarter Panel- need input
I believe it's narrower at the back to account for the body curving in towards the taillight. That makes sense. Every mm of space that can be used and still get this QPM into its home is used….but it is a TIGHT fit to squeeze it into its spot. Which has been discussed earlier!
forum.ih8mud.com
DUDE. So glad you've cleared a trail this far. I'm after exactly what you're after - single connection to rack when mounted, clean water-tight and 'invisible' capped end when the rack is off. Been chasing this for over 2 years now.
Completely against drilling holes in the roof. However, given every other option that's been suggested or that I can conjure, I don't see any way around it.
Soooo...the best thing I've found is aviation connectors, particularly one with a 90deg bend. I haven't proceeded with the rest of it as I haven't had time to suss out the headliner removal w/o damaging it to run the cables to the underside of the roof. But...using this -
Amazon product ASIN B07B7LTQR6
- the elbow is on the rack end of cabling, with the roof end being the flat bit with the water tight cap.
Caveats thus far is the cap will need a dab of silicon due to the cable stay being connected thru the cap (small gap there) and the elbow is a split body affair requiring some kind of full sealing - perhaps silicon, or very large adhesive-lined heat shrink to wrap the body of the connector with.
The position of the pass-thru is centered at the rear of the roof, yet still underneath the rack (for protection and security), with the elbow facing rearward. This is so that all cabling on the rack can be routed to the rear-center of the rack, and straight into the elbow. Facing the elbow forward would require the wiring to loop rearward then back forward into the elbow.
Remove the rack and you just have the small, flat end with the cap for a very low-profile and nearly invisible capped off connector.
I can take pics of the connector (just placed for referrence) on the roof for an idea of what I'm talking about.
Completely against drilling holes in the roof. However, given every other option that's been suggested or that I can conjure, I don't see any way around it.
Soooo...the best thing I've found is aviation connectors, particularly one with a 90deg bend. I haven't proceeded with the rest of it as I haven't had time to suss out the headliner removal w/o damaging it to run the cables to the underside of the roof. But...using this -
Amazon product ASIN B07B7LTQR6
- the elbow is on the rack end of cabling, with the roof end being the flat bit with the water tight cap.
Caveats thus far is the cap will need a dab of silicon due to the cable stay being connected thru the cap (small gap there) and the elbow is a split body affair requiring some kind of full sealing - perhaps silicon, or very large adhesive-lined heat shrink to wrap the body of the connector with.
The position of the pass-thru is centered at the rear of the roof, yet still underneath the rack (for protection and security), with the elbow facing rearward. This is so that all cabling on the rack can be routed to the rear-center of the rack, and straight into the elbow. Facing the elbow forward would require the wiring to loop rearward then back forward into the elbow.
Remove the rack and you just have the small, flat end with the cap for a very low-profile and nearly invisible capped off connector.
I can take pics of the connector (just placed for referrence) on the roof for an idea of what I'm talking about.
