Parts list to refurb your Sway Bars

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Time to dig up an old thread!

Anyone able to report back on the affects of the MAF 80 series end links? I am gathering info to redo my sway bar bushings and will be installing a 2.5" lift when i do the bushings... should I just go ahead and source a MAF extended link?
 
My MAF links are doing fine and the extra 1.75" of length works well with 2.5" lift. However, I don't see them listed on MAF's site anymore. Did you contact them?
 
My MAF links are doing fine and the extra 1.75" of length works well with 2.5" lift. However, I don't see them listed on MAF's site anymore. Did you contact them?

Alright, looks like I will pick those up instead of the factory links for my 100 and install them when I install my lift.

Did you also extend your front sway bar links?

The links are kinda hidden on MAF's site, a bit of digging and I found them.... follow the url below, click the "kits" dropdown, and they are second choice down.
Man-A-Fre 80 Series Sway Bar Drop Brackets and Extended Links - Man-A-Fre
 
Thought I'd provide a dealer pricetag data point for this project...I was just quoted $993 ($605 for front shocks and $388 for sway bar end links only). Kicker is, I just replaced the shocks myself 6 week ago... Bought the complete refurb parts listed here for $101 shipped from Toyota Parts Deal.
 
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I checked the site, added refurb parts list WITHOUT optional parts to cart, total before shipping & taxes $194.98!
I'm not doubting or contradicting you, just unclear on why such huge discrepancy on price when i checked same site same day. Others posted from $307 to $243, 2-3 years ago. Was there a sale or did you have a coupon? Thanks for the post BTW, still a good price.
 
I literally just ordered parts from Toyota Online Parts ten minutes ago and my total for parts only was around $265, front and rear. I spent a little extra and got the optional parts (save for the unnecessary bushings that already come with the front links), better safe than sorry!
 
Sorry. That was front only. It took me 45 minutes to do the job in my pajamas. Looking forward to my morning commute.
 
Rather than start a new thread I'll just add on to this one; pretty much copied from the "What Have You Done..." thread.

A friend of mine and I did the front and rear swaybar links with all new OEM hardware at his shop. What a difference! Flatter cornering and the suspension feels "tighter" (for lack of a better term).

The old bushings were destroyed... This is what it looked like on the truck...

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This is what it looked like when we removed it... as in, this fell off the front bar and we didn't rip it off the front bar to look like this...

20170202_171839.jpg


The link bushings and cushions weren't that much better...

20170202_172302.jpg


Surprisingly, the passenger side bracket wasn't too bad off, I know some people have problems with the AC drain dripping on it but my bolts came out fine.

All in all, I'm very happy with the change in handling characteristics, not that it's a sports car but it definitely feels more planted to the ground, and no more suspension clatter over bumps!!! As others have said, this is a must and is relatively inexpensive and isn't too hard to do.
 
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How does the rear sway bar bushing differ between ahc and non ahc?
I removed my ahc and running lifted normal springs. Wich bushing should i get?
 
AHC Rear sway bar diameter is slightly thinner.
 
Anyone else have trouble pressing the bushings in the front end links? Keep getting 3/4 way there and it gets stuck.
 
If you don't have a press, a Hi-lift jack can sometimes work.
 
Did you use your bench vise like this? and with soapy water?

Shocks-3.jpg
 
Didn't consider the socket idea. Was just relying on the metal in the middle of the bushing to act as a pressure point.
 
thanks for the list, ordered the parts at my dealer(skipped all the optional brackets) Wednesday, got them today(1 day) did the rear this afternoon. Sure can feel the difference in handling, and it took care of a few of my chirps in the rear end(the rest are probably from the control arms)

If I were to do it again(at least in the rear), I'd skip all the washers(retainers) and links and just get the rubber bits, re-use the old metal stuff(I did use new as I had them), same with the nuts/bolts. But would get new spacers. Had no issues with anything coming apart except the 14mm nut and bolt on the link, had to take the air impact to that to bust it loose. Most obvious wear was in the bushing in the bottom of the links ,they were toast, the rest of the rubber was not really too bad. That being said, its nice to have all the stuff you "may" need. its super easy for me to return un-needed parts.......but I never do ;) But I think you can cut the cost way down(easily 1/2) by skipping stuff if you don't really need it(which is different than my attidute towards older Cruisers)

12mm flex head gear wrench was very handy for the 12mm nut at the top of the links. Also, don't put the spacer in the link bushing before you try to put it in the link, put rubber in, then spacer(and spit on it)

I have Slee Torsion bars on the front, so it looks tight to get the bracket off and might have to pull the T-bars, think I will use my buddies rack to avoid my back getting angry(getting old sucks)

2000, had 168,000 on it. Its a WA state Cruiser, so its rust free.
 
I just did the rear on my 100. Going to do the fronts this weekend. I have a question. I sprayed PB Blaster on all the front/rear bolts on Saturday. Did the rears on Sunday. Should I be good to go when I do the fronts in a few days or should I respray it with PB Blaster? My 100 is a SoCal 100 with no rust, just did the PB blaster since some people on this thread said they snapped a bolt.
 
My 100 lives in WA, we just hit the stuff with Kroil a few minutes before we replaced anything, than some break free when removing them. Had no issues.

I think I saw mention someplace the torsion bars need to come off to get to the frame brackets...but we had no problem without removing them. I reused most the stock bolts. Did use new frame brackets.

Oddly the shimmy(58-62mph) in the wheel went away after doing the front, not sure why but I was happy.
 
The AC drips onto the passenger side sway bar mount. Mine fell apart and I had use hardware store bolt and nuts. It’s been years but I still remember how much better the truck was afterwards.
 

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