Parking brake adjustment… (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Nov 11, 2022
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52
Messages
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Location
Jensen Beach Florida
Lil help please.
My 72 FJ40 has new parking brake drum/hardware/shoes.
Cam is adjusted all the way counterclockwise.
Still, the handle pulls all the way out and truck rolls.
On the firewall, is this adjustment.
Wil turning the cable sleeve in or out help?

image.jpg
 
Did you try turning the adjuster the other way?
I think you would want to turn the outer sleeve out, to make the cable seem shorter
 
Had similar with mine but not quite so extreme.
Assuming everything in the drum is correct...
You need to make the outer casing longer because the inner cable has stretched.
You need to back off the nut on the inside of the firewall, and tighten the one on the engine side.
Problem is... this area often gets wet and the inner nut can be rusted solid. Remove the two bolts on the plate, and you should get good access to the inner nut.
 
If you are cleaver and handy you can make a new inner wire assembly. I didn't find a complete unit for our year. Start spraying all the connector now with penetrating oil so it can soak ion for a few days.
 
So you would think, but no. In this case anyway.
Slackened the cable just enough and then managed to catch another tooth on the drum adjuster perhaps?
Is your cable now 'fixed' at the bulkhead bracket, or can you pull it out slightly when the handbrake is released?
Maybe yours is different from mine, but I have a nut on the inside too, and it isn't captive...

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"So you would think, not in this case " Um, there is missing information because that would in fact cause more slack in the line so the " quick, accurate" may be not so accurate. You are saying you shortened the housing and the cable got tighter, yellow flag !!!!
 
First off, cable is last. Give the cable slack (which means shorten the cable). Then go to drum and turn the adjuster with your 10mm box wrench counterclockwise until it stops, then back off clockwise one click. Next go to cable and just until lever max pull is within 7-12 clicks. I like to set closer to 7 so you can adjust as time goes on.

Does your adjuster just spin on the drum like you said or is maxed out (which I assume you mean the shoes are tight against drum)?

If shoes are tight and rear end is locked up, then cable is stretched out quite a bit like others have said and more adjustment is needed. If maxed out on adjustment then new cable is imminent.
 
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"So you would think, not in this case " Um, there is missing information because that would in fact cause more slack in the line so the " quick, accurate" may be not so accurate. You are saying you shortened the housing and the cable got tighter, yellow flag !!!!
Yellow flag? Frankly peesalot, you come across as accusation, like I’m up to some kind of shenanigan.
I’m just telling you what I did, and the results.
 
On all my 4 wheeler and motorcycles even bicycle cables to make adjustments for removing slack the cable housing is lengthened or the cable is shortened sometimes both. I have made new inner cable for stuff when they are NLA. An e brake when set that doesn't stall the vehicle enough so you know its set is next to worthless.
 
Maybe it's just semantics. The main point of the chat here for me is hopefully to learn something myself, help someone now, and help someone else next month when they have the same problem.

It concerns me when the information left behind for the next guy seems inconsistent with the design, but that's not to say that what has been done hasn't worked.

Maybe some of these cables do have a left handed thread? Maybe the cable got wound up under the truck (it's not really designed to rotate at the drum - hence the two nuts). Maybe there's a different design that I don't know about.
Just curious if anyone can explain it.
 

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