Baja Adventure: March 2007
Part Three, Mission Santa Maria
From Los Corrales I head north to Bahia de Los Angeles (BOLA). This was a relaxed day as I didn't have far to go. On the way up I check out Bahia las Animas. It was nice and I later found out I didn't drive up the road far enough to some good camping past the fish camp. I arrive at BOLA around 3:00 PST and bought sodas and tortillas. The Pemex was closed and I hoped they were not out of fuel. This was a concern as I was going to need gas to make the drive to Mission Santa Maria then to Gonzaga Bay, my next chance for gas. I camp next to Red Mountain just outside of town and have the spot to myself. Happy birthday Bushrat! I kick back with a cerveza and enjoy the sunset. I plug in the headset to my phone and play Brooks & Dunn.
Oh when love dies
You can't bury those memories
Oh when love dies
It disappears but it never leaves
When love dies it don't rest in peace
Ya, what he said.
The next morning I'm up and head into town for fuel, then the drive to Mission Santa Maria. One the way I pass a nice FZJ80 Land Cruiser and we get to talking. I find out it's Chris, aka CPG at IH8MUD.com. He heard the Pemex was out of fuel, or out of electricity to pump, and there was a guy that will be selling fuel from drums at 7am. We head that way and sure enough, he is pumping from the back of his truck. I dump the 20L I have on the rear bumper into the truck and get the can refilled, $160MXN. In theory this should be enough. I part, with Chris and his friend going south, and me going north.
I get to Santa Ynez (Santa Ines in the Baja Almanac) and decide to check if there is gas in Catavina. As hoped there is a women there siphoning gas from 5 gallon cans. Again I dump the gas from the bumper into the truck and have her fill up my NATO can, $155MXN. I now have enough fuel to hit San Felipe if I have to. Life is good. I go back to Santa Ynez and stop at the restaurant. There are three Canadians there enjoying a cerveza who HIKED to the mission and proudly show off their blisters. I get directions to the road and talk with Ralph about the road. Ralph lives in the canyon, and is a Toyota guy too with a Gen3 mini-truck, modified for Baja. He is concerned about me going in solo. It's only 14 miles, well within my comfort zone so I'm not concerned. Regardless, I tell him if he doesn't hear from me by noon Tuesday to come looking. I plan to come out on Monday so Tuesday gave me a day grace.
I start down the road which is slow, but nothing exciting. After maybe 10 miles the road starts to descend into a valley and gets rough. Going down was not a problem, though I do hit a few rocks. The road into the Mission is somewhat infamous. Some folks consider the road to Mission Santa Maria to be the worst road in Baja. Personally, I didn't find it at all difficult coming in. It was slow driving, but more annoying than difficult. I would learn later that coming out was going to be a challenge.
I get to the Mission about 2:00PST, it's 99°F and 7% humid. I guzzle H2O, set up shade, and park my hide in the chair. It's too hot to explore around so I wait until it cools off. My Engel fridge is working over time to stay at 39°F. The Mission is set in a palm oasis with Mexican blue palms and Mexican fan palms, though the Mexican fan palms look half way between Mex fan palm and California fan palm. The trunks do flare at the bottom, and they appear, for the most part, to be self-shedding, but the trunks are thicker than expected. There is a stream that runs along side the Mission and a large group of palms just down stream. Ralph said there are pools below the Mission. I will explore them in the morning.
Mision Santa Maria de los Angeles was founded in 1767 by the Jesuits. It was abandoned in 1818. There is a picture taken in 1905 that shows the end walls still standing along with one side wall, and a second building standing with all four walls. Now about the only thing left are the eroded end walls, a pile of mud from the side walls, and really nothing left of the second building. It won't be long before nothing is left of this historic mission. There are some rock corral walls near by.
The wind picked up in the afternoon and my sunshade was having a time staying up. I hoped it would die down after sunset, but this would not be the case. Finally after sunset I collapse the sunshade and climb into the tent, only to have the wind pick up and start dumping sand on top of me. I take the tent down, empty out the truck and climb in. Finally, the wind does die down.
I get up at first light and the wind is very calm, though it didn't stay that way. The sun shines here late because of the mountains to the east and sets early because of mountain to the west. I decide to hike down to the oasis below the Mission and look for the pools for future reference. I find several worth dipping in and decide to come back after it warms up. At 10am PST it's 94°F and 9% humid and I decide it's time. I load up lunch, agua, camera, GPS, and a towel and hike to the big pool for a [skinny]dip. This pool was deep, bottomless, big, cool, clear but slightly green from the algae, and smells slightly of soda. It's feels good. I soak for awhile then crawl out onto one of the flat rocks on the edge to air dry and contemplate how, at this moment, at least right now, life is good. Yep.
I gather my stuff and decide to explore further. I want to see where the water is coming from. The spring. I thought this was a small side canyon, but this was a major addition. This canyon runs to the north and opens up from the junction at the pools. Palms, both blue and Mex fan, continue up the canyon, though are widely spaced. The water flowed all the way up. I hike up a mile from the pools and decide to turn around. This canyon will have to wait for another day as it's longer than I thought.
I stop again at the bottomless pool for a cool-down dip before hiking back to the Mission. Back at camp it's 102°F and 93% dry. As I'm writing I notice small blisters on my thighs. I seem to remember climbing up through a spurge (Euphorbia tomentulosa) on the way out, but didn't think it caused reactions. Guess it does. The blisters were thin, and weren't spreading or recurring after they broke. File this knowledge away.
Silence is broken by the noise of engines. Sounded like motorcycles, but turn out to be four couples on side-by-side 4x4 ATV's. Looked like a nice way to explore. They stop and chat, and some wander down to the pools for a dip. They are at the Mission maybe an hour, then decide they need to get out before sunset.
That night the wind howled again and I retreat to the truck for a second time. This time, it doesn't calm down and blows all night. I was hoping to run down to the pools in the morning with the camera and take some nice pics, but that didn't happen. The wind was too strong for a tripoded camera. Guess I'll need to come back.
That next morning I get up to tackle the road out. As expected it was a challenge. There were maybe three or four steep rocky climbs. The 4Runner is built for this stuff, but it was still not easy. Between the super low gears and the rear differential locker I was able to get out without too much effort. There was one climb where I didn't think the locker was needed and didn't turn on the compressor. WRONG. I start up the climb, get almost to the top, and the tires break loose and I start to bounce sideways. The truck stalls and I sit there awhile just to think. I turn on the compressor and the locker, left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas, and turn the key to let the starter crawl me forward and fire the engine. For the next climbs I had the compressor running just in case.
Mission Santa Maria to Santa Ynez:
Moving time = 2:23 hours; moving average = 6.0 mph; odo = 14.2 miles.
Pics at:
http://ratstew.home.comcast.net/santamaria.pdf (5.1mb)
Google Earth track:
http://ratstew.home.comcast.net/bajamarch07.kml