Panhard drop bracket option? (1 Viewer)

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They can’t be off they are all cnc laser and cnc brake bent. I mean it can be off but the chances are very very very slim. I replied to your email. Call me.

Edit.

Based off this pic you sent me. I’m positive your cab / frame just shifted over a good amount when you unbolted the trac bar. If it’s short on the upper home on the bracket , if you remove the bracket and try to rotate it back to oem whole , it’s going to be really shorty now. Grab a strap and pull your cab over from the tow hitch or jack up the axle on driverside

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Got it Dom! Thanks for the walk through - Just needed to jack up the drivers side rear wheel about 6 inches and it pulled the bar right over.

Appreciate it!
 
Was your trac bar hole off when you went to install the stock bolt? Mine is off about 1/2 inch??
This is the 2nd bracket from drkdss for me, I've got one installed on my sons 5th gen 4Runner and it was an easy install
Looks like your question resolved itself already. Mine was only shifted slightly. I was able to resolve with some light jostling.
 
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Does the rear spring need to be removed to weld on the Opt Offroad bracket?

 
Does the rear spring need to be removed to weld on the Opt Offroad bracket?

Not necessary. Only thing that needs to be removed is the panhard bar so the bracket can be installed.
 
DRKDSS has lovely brackets for 200 Series. I have the first prototype for the LX570 installed on my vehicle. The left side spacer plate is prototype and Dom is working on getting it a bit smaller and more of a direct fit.

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@drkdss finally got around to ordering your bracket
 
Done. Didn’t enjoy bending the stock bracket open to set the back plate in, but otherwise it only took about 35 minutes once I got into it. Initially, it seems flatter in tight turns. need some speed bumps to drive over to see if it cuts the rear-end waggin.
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Installed mine over the weekend, finally. It's only been sitting on my shelf since August. Mine is black, so not as pretty as @Txoverland above but otherwise it's the same installation.

Holy cow this makes a difference. Despite having more lift in the rear I had less wobble with my medium duty Ironman springs than with the standard duty Tough Dog springs (which had a bit more spring height difference between left and right), but it was still there and particularly noticeable going over those gradual speed bumps at ~20-25mph. I won't say the wobble is gone now but it's 98% improved for sure. Oddly I also feel like the rear spring bounce is softer, and I almost want to turn my BP51's up one notch (I'm currently C2/R6). Yes everything is torqued correctly. Could just be in my mind or it could be because there less wobble means the shocks are now working together instead of against each other.

My only concern with this setup is will there be any panhard bar contact with the exhaust or diff breather on full stuff? I think it'll be ok, but would love confirmation from others.
 
I noticed an improved steering feel, not only is the rig a bit flatter in the turns but the steering wheel feels like there is less resistance, not sure on the mechanics of that. I still feel a slight wobble in the rear over slow speed bumps in parking lots. As far as the full flex question, should be able to answer it in a few weeks after a trip to Merus.
 
I noticed an improved steering feel, not only is the rig a bit flatter in the turns but the steering wheel feels like there is less resistance, not sure on the mechanics of that. I still feel a slight wobble in the rear over slow speed bumps in parking lots. As far as the full flex question, should be able to answer it in a few weeks after a trip to Merus.
Heh, ok so it's not just me.

Pretty sure I'll know before the end of this month as if there is any contact I'm going to experience it at Cruise Moab...
 
I have a weld in one sitting on my work table.

I'm not lifted enough to really need it per say, at only 1.25" rear lift. The suspension cycles clean without much sway at normal ride height.

What I'm looking to address is in hard braking, when the rear lifts, there is enough rear steer that I'll have to correct steering a touch to the right. That little correction is not brought up much, but I'm sure you all experience it too.
 
Installed mine over the weekend, finally. It's only been sitting on my shelf since August. Mine is black, so not as pretty as @Txoverland above but otherwise it's the same installation.

Holy cow this makes a difference. Despite having more lift in the rear I had less wobble with my medium duty Ironman springs than with the standard duty Tough Dog springs (which had a bit more spring height difference between left and right), but it was still there and particularly noticeable going over those gradual speed bumps at ~20-25mph. I won't say the wobble is gone now but it's 98% improved for sure. Oddly I also feel like the rear spring bounce is softer, and I almost want to turn my BP51's up one notch (I'm currently C2/R6). Yes everything is torqued correctly. Could just be in my mind or it could be because there less wobble means the shocks are now working together instead of against each other.

My only concern with this setup is will there be any panhard bar contact with the exhaust or diff breather on full stuff? I think it'll be ok, but would love confirmation from others.

No, ive slammed it buy bleeding AHC on factory bumps and no interference whatsoever even with a 33" underneath.
Kind of scary truck falling on your face first thing I check lol.

Gotta agree, this and @turbo8 shock extenders are the best two products on my truck.
 
I have a weld in one sitting on my work table.

I'm not lifted enough to really need it per say, at only 1.25" rear lift. The suspension cycles clean without much sway at normal ride height.

What I'm looking to address is in hard braking, when the rear lifts, there is enough rear steer that I'll have to correct steering a touch to the right. That little correction is not brought up much, but I'm sure you all experience it too.

Buy the Dr KDSS, super easy install.
 
Buy the Dr KDSS, super easy install.

The bolt on version moves the panhard rearward enough that it compromises room to carrying larger spares. I need the room for 35s.
 
The bolt on version moves the panhard rearward enough that it compromises room to carrying larger spares. I need the room for 35s.

LOL what about second breakfast? (37s). My panhard lateral angle was really weird too before the kit. look:

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If anything the bolt on PCK was easier to drop in at N ride height. It was perfectly designed.


I also think you should get your welder back out, finish carving that rear bumper, upgrade your LRA to a split 40 20/20 water fuel from ARB or something, and build a rear tire carrier. That way no more basket, no more spare drag, no more hitch scrapes, and now you could shower.

As far as my sleeper build, the fuel capacity is really all that's left for me to address. I am weary after seeing yalls interference and squeaks with LRA. I gotta catch up to the subtank install by @FerrisBueller what happened there champ?
 
I am weary after seeing yalls interference and squeaks with LRA.

Body lift takes care of that ;).

Though I never had any squeaks but there is definitely potential if not cautious enough with the install.
 
I gotta catch up to the subtank install by @FerrisBueller what happened there champ?

Ha, you have quite the timing with that question. I've gone nearly a year with no problems (other than a few small quirks that are easy enough to fix, but small enough that I haven't taken the time to do anything about them yet). And then yesterday I got my first check engine light. The codes were just saying the vapor flow was incorrect (i.e., related to the charcoal canister). I already know the fix that will work (it's the same fix that will cure most of the small quirks all at once).

I'm just not super motivated, since using these barbed hose fittings means that disconnecting them is destructive to the hoses. I would redo most of the hoses + fittings of I can find non-barb fittings.
 

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