Panhard drop bracket option? (13 Viewers)

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Finally had the chance to put some mileage on the LC200 with this installed, to include freeway driving with some heavy braking. The tail wagging is significantly reduced, back to how I remember it being as stock.
 
About to start hot metal glue gunning mine on. :) Did you all remove the panhard while you were welding or just push it out of the way? How did you protect the line that runs right behind it (sensor wire?) while you were burning stuff?
 
About to start hot metal glue gunning mine on. :) Did you all remove the panhard while you were welding or just push it out of the way? How did you protect the line that runs right behind it (sensor wire?) while you were burning stuff?

I did not remove the panhard. It was not in the way. For the ABS line, I did disconnect it from the sensor on the hub and made sure it was pretty far away from any heat source.

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And I am so jealous of your rust free rig!
 
And I am so jealous of your rust free rig!

Ha! And I'm freaking out over the barely detectable surface oxidation (not even close to rust) from the potassium chloride spray NV's DOT uses on the roads in the winter. Sounds like nothing compared to the rock salt you guys have to deal with.

Our west coast trucks may be rust free, but the UV does a number on paint and plastic/rubber over the years. Pick your poison.
 
Ha! And I'm freaking out over the barely detectable surface oxidation (not even close to rust) from the potassium chloride spray NV's DOT uses on the roads in the winter. Sounds like nothing compared to the rock salt you guys have to deal with.

Our west coast trucks may be rust free, but the UV does a number on paint and plastic/rubber over the years. Pick your poison.

I pick UV. Lol
 
I pick UV. Lol

Same. Easier to mitigate UV. Plus I'd rather snap plastic trim clips vs metal bolts.

I'm surprised Toyota does not do some type of factory undercarriage coating. My G63, which is now 6 years old, came with a real thick coating of what looks like woolwax, and it is still there, with absolutely zero oxidation. It is a pain to wrench on though, makes an absolute mess.
 
I did not remove the panhard. It was not in the way. For the ABS line, I did disconnect it from the sensor on the hub and made sure it was pretty far away from any heat source.

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I followed your guidance and did the same. I should have removed the spring, it would have given me better access, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Not nearly as nice welding as yours and others, but grinder, flap disk and rustoleum and nobody's the wiser. :)

That brake line is awfully close and the coating got more than a little warm at one point.

And yes, I know I could have done a better job, but it is what it is. Hopefully it won't rip off. My welding is decades out of top form and doing it at 2AM didn't do me any favors.

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I followed your guidance and did the same. I should have removed the spring, it would have given me better access, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Not nearly as nice welding as yours and others, but grinder, flap disk and rustoleum and nobody's the wiser. :)

That brake line is awfully close and the coating got more than a little warm at one point.

And yes, I know I could have done a better job, but it is what it is. Hopefully it won't rip off. My welding is decades out of top form and doing it at 2AM didn't do me any favors.

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Looks good to me! That will hold. Many of the factory Toyota welds are not instagram perfect (which mine are far from too). The photo I posted may have been a bit deceiving, I did have the rear spring removed prior to welding. And yes that hard brake line got a little toasty. I probably boiled some DOT 3 fluid for a few seconds.
 
I can understand the reasons for wanting to minimize the “wag” and how the geometry of the panhard means having it horizontal when the truck is at “normal” ride height does this. Great thread here. I just have never noticed any “wag” and I have 30mm spacers on top of my rear 2721s.

Also, I don’t see how the bump stops could miss the targets at full up travel. The panhard is a fixed radius so the bump stop has to hit the target. What am I missing?
I think you would notice in hindsight if you corrected geometry. Especially if you are really in tuned with your LC and say you go through the same dips and bumps that you go through daily. The guys that are taller in ride height will feel the most improvement.
 
100% it will be the strongest option.

Have any testing against competitors to confirm this?

Nice to see more attention to this product in the market.
 
I think you would notice in hindsight if you corrected geometry. Especially if you are really in tuned with your LC and say you go through the same dips and bumps that you go through daily. The guys that are taller in ride height will feel the most improvement.
Yeah, when I went to taller springs I did notice the wag and I have installed the panhard bracket. Big difference.
 

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