Painting an 85 Copper 60

CenTXFJ60

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Got a little work done this week. Goal is to shoot a couple doors, the tailgate and possibly reshoot the hood on Sunday. 3 of the 4 doors had to remove the body caulk (on the bottom), soak in OSPHO and the apply new seam sealer. Fortunately no swelling of the metal so I feel I caught it at the right time. @BigHighBlue is swinging by in the AM and we are gonna load an ARB on the front of his 60. Nice thing about the doors is there’s no tape or paper. Just need to rig them up so they are hanging from X, Y &Z.

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CenTXFJ60

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So true David. At least it’s not as humid as last weekend. Hoping to shoot a few doors tomorrow and possibly reshoot the hood. The more I work on the doors the more repairs I’m finding. Ended up redoing the seam sealer on the bottom of all four doors and found many more dents/dings than I thought were there after doing a guide coat. And had a friend of ours @BigHighBlue stop by and we loaded on his new bumper/winch. Was great hanging out with Ben for the day.

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CenTXFJ60

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Got two doors (DS) and the tailgate done today. Pleased with how they came out. It was like a sauna today in the barn with the doors closed. High 90’s today Did not have enough clear to shoot anything else. Will work on the other 3 and see if I can shoot them next weekend. I did have a weird reaction with the metallic in a few spots on the two doors. One was where I did some bodywork. It’s like the metallic just went spastic and did not want to flow out. I did a little wet sanding after the 2nd coat of color (800) and then hit them with two more coats. Improved it quite a bit and probably should have done one more heavy coat of color. Anyhow…it has a “puffy cloud” look from certain angles. The camera won’t pick it up. I’m sure it has to do with the older material that I blocked down with 400. So yea, I’m gambling a bit and not doing a sealer or sandable primer. I have some aerosol (commercial grade) cans of etching and stackable primer. Pretty sure I’m not being liberal enough with them.

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mongoose2231

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CenTXFJ60

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Great preview of what I am expecting in a few days!
Off topic, but I am really lusting after yer barn...lol.
Thank you Monggoose. It’s actually a really cool building. Was originally built in the early 1940’s and used as a hay barn. When I bought the land in 04 I slowly upgraded it with another door, concrete, electric etc. have a few more ideas in mind which is nothing but time and $ :).
 

CenTXFJ60

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Accomplished something tonight. Not proud of how it looks but it’s 100% effective and the cosmetics don’t mean anything as the new hood insulator will cover my sloppy work up. I used a different product (Norton) with my truck 6 years ago. It set in 15 min vs this SEM setting in 30. This left it too runny and had to keep working on it and made an absolute mess. Plus, the SEM was much stickier and I could not clean the excess the same way I did the Norton for some reason. Pics of both jobs included for reference.

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CenTXFJ60

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Accomplished something tonight. Not proud of how it looks but it’s 100% effective and the cosmetics don’t mean anything as the new hood insulator will cover my sloppy work up. I used a different product (Norton) with my truck 6 years ago. It set in 15 min vs this SEM setting in 30. This left it too runny and had to keep working on it and made an absolute mess. Plus, the SEM was much stickier and I could not clean the excess the same way I did the Norton for some reason. Pics of both jobs included for reference.

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Should have shared this as well…if you spend the $100 for the gun that dispenses this body caulk then you will not have the issue I had today. I did my blue truck the same way with better results, but I think that was due to the stickiness of this SEM product.
 

CenTXFJ60

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So I’m going to redo the two doors. In the right light you can see where the metallic did not respond well. Also reshooting the hood due to the strip down the middle. Will buy some highbuild primer and use that on the remainder of the doors to reduce my exposure. Live and learn :).

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So I learned something yesterday :)
The reason for the metallic issue is because I did not wait long enough for my highbuild primer to cure. The guy I buy materials from is an "old school" painter and when I showed him the picture, he asked how long after applying the primer until I shot the base. He knew right away and told me the metallic soaked into the primer. Makes sense as these reactions are where I either hit metal during prep work or applied some filler which both received the primer. lesson learned...don't rush and wait until the next day if needed before shooting base/clear.
 

CenTXFJ60

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Jimmy, having a small uv light in the shop helps for those times you need to quick dry something.. small spot repairs, etc ... 👍
Great recommendation Pete. I have to stop being so cheap and buy the right tools. Like not getting the dual caulk gun for the body caulk. It's amazing, but I bet I have $1500-$2K in materials just painting this truck. I did buy a really sweet air drying system that uses desiccant crystals. Now I'm thinking I need to update my compressor and plumbing as well. Will tackle that job after I finish painting this truck.

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ceylonfj40nut

Waiting for Barn Time
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So I learned something yesterday :)
The reason for the metallic issue is because I did not wait long enough for my highbuild primer to cure. The guy I buy materials from is an "old school" painter and when I showed him the picture, he asked how long after applying the primer until I shot the base. He knew right away and told me the metallic soaked into the primer. Makes sense as these reactions are where I either hit metal during prep work or applied some filler which both received the primer. lesson learned...don't rush and wait until the next day if needed before shooting base/clear.

“Got to get the reducer to gas out” is what I have heard from Jimmy in the past.

Wait… this is Jimmy.
 

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