Dissent Rear Bumper Install 60 series (2 Viewers)

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Flatlanderfj40

TLCA 24579
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Oct 10, 2016
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Location
Overland Park, KS
I decided to do a write up of the Dissent FJ60 rear bumper installation since I couldn’t really find much in the way of instructions (passenger side swing out, fj60 vs fj62 nuances, etc…

Lead time was right at 12 weeks.
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Bumper comes raw metal and I had everything powder coated locally ($400).

Time to remove the OEM bumper. I soaked nuts and carriage bolts in PB blaster for a week hoping to ‘save’ the rear bumper…no chance. One by one the holes all ‘wallered’ out and the grinder unfortunately was needed.
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Then comes the frame horn rivets…another hour of grinding, tapping, drilling.
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The hitch/reciever mounts using the existing capture nuts and provided bolts (finer pitch)… mark two top holes with pencil and drill, 1/2”. Once that is centered slide the bumper over and onto the frame lining up as many bolts as you can start to thread.

Fit is snug and other than having to use a ratchet strap to manipulate and maneuver, everything fit and lined up well.

On the bottom center hitch/crossmember there are three shims/plates that slide in and fit between the lower bumper mount and cross member…I didn’t see this part in the instructions and will have to go back and reinstall them.
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The swing out (passenger side) was assembled…the instructions are driver side so things were a little confusing.
It is recommended to install only the swing arm first before adding the tire carrier, but I got ahead of myself and assembled the entire thing prior. It’s fine, took two of us and some patience while mounting as there is little to no room for tools behind the spindle to secure the 4 bolts.
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I opted for the hi-lift mount and haven’t decided if I will use or not. It blocks my license plate and I don’t want to relocate. They do provide license plate brackets and led light if you opt for the relocation.

I didn’t opt for the add on tail/brake/backup lights. They do provide blocking plates for the light cut outs but no hardware 🤔

This spring plate they sent me was for a drivers side swing out so I did have to drill and fiddle to make it work.
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Couple of additional observations…install the grease zerks before the strut. At full lock I was unable to get to the lower one afterwards. Will probably change out that zerk for an angled version to make servicing easier.
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The suspa strut provided is plenty stout. I had already installed the bump stops and couldn’t compress the strut 3/4”…I had to remove the outside bump stop (not pictured) to gain enough clearance to slide over the ball stud.
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I’ve done 70 miles around town and so far so good. Getting my spare up out of the way will be yuge off-road while providing protection. On to the next project…
 
Youl need to look at it but i think you can adjust the mount to bring the tire closer to the body. i have adjustment on my 40 bumper. I cant tell in the photos. the cool think about the swing out is all the adjustment.
 
Youl need to look at it but i think you can adjust the mount to bring the tire closer to the body. i have adjustment on my 40 bumper. I cant tell in the photos. the cool think about the swing out is all the adjustment.
Good eye. I think we were tired at that point. Just thankful the nuts were tight. Readjusted 👍

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I opted for the hi-lift mount and haven’t decided if I will use or not. It blocks my license plate and I don’t want to relocate. They do provide license plate brackets and led light if you opt for the relocation.

I didn’t opt for the add on tail/brake/backup lights. They do provide blocking plates for the light cut outs but no hardware 🤔

This spring plate they sent me was for a drivers side swing out so I did have to drill and fiddle to make it work. View attachment 3549123

View attachment 3549122

Thanks for taking the time to document further!

If you want to send us an email we can get you the correct spring tab sent out along with more hardware to mount the blank light plates. There should have been more 1/4" black bolts to mount those in the hardware kit.

Also, for the swing arm hinge bolt, the bolt head should be on top with the washer and the nut on the bottom with no washer. The head of the bolt you'll want to paint/powder coat as well to prevent corrosion.
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