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- #61
Thank you for having volunteered; please proceed to the nearest Interrogation Kiosk for... questioning.
Builds Over the Hills, and Far Away
- Thread starter Sundowner
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Thank you for having volunteered; please proceed to the nearest Interrogation Kiosk for... questioning.
Me too, more on the western Canadian than Alaskan side.
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- #63
Oh good; that means you're especially valuable. Your geographic diversity will be added to our own.
So, here's the basic situation: I'm thinking more seriously about a trip up through Alaska next summer, from southwestern Washington to the Arctic. It's absolutely not definite, but Houser and I are chatting about some dates via PM to see if there's a time that might work for both of us, and I've put out a few feelers among friends to see if anyone might want to take more-than-a-few days off to make the trip. For now, this is as much as I know:
- It looks like June or July might be the date range, but definitely not before; depending on the schedules of other parties, it could be later in the year.
- The basic route plate at current would be from Washington through British Columbia and the Yukon, into eastern Alaska, up to somewhere around Deadhorse via Fairbanks, and then back down by way of the Talkeetna/Anchorage area.
- The final return leg might be from Skagway to Bellevue by way of the ferry system...mostly because I like ferries.
- I'd like to see some national parks along the way: Wrangell St. Elias, Gates of the Arctic, Denali, Glacier By, etc. I don't have to stay there extensively, but it would be nice to at least wander through.
- I've already heard that road conditions - although mostly paved - can be variable...and as soon as you're off-highway, all bets are off as well. In most of the areas around the parks, roads don't seem to exist, so: Recovery equipment and tires; what's needed and/or helpful?
- If you read Post 3 back on the first page of my ramblings, you'll know that I now have a paranoid fear of low-fuel moments when there should be no real possibility of that happening; Fuel stops seem to be pretty frequent up through Fairbanks, but how stable is the supply itself? Do I need to make a serious effort at carrying more than 85L?
- Since this is a driving trip, there are going to be a lot of overnight stays. I'm rather partial to just finding a place to park and rest, and I've already tripped across the BLM publication on the subject for the Dalton Highway...but: In reality, what's the situation with stopping for the night, outside of campgrounds?
- The single most common piece of advice that I've been given about Alaska and Canada is this: don't underestimate the weather. I know that all too well from having spent time in the mountains, but: Temps in the summer and early fall look relatively mild; any reason to not trust that climactic data and pack heavier?
- Communications: Is there a better option than a satellite phone in these areas, or is cell coverage better than reported?
- The second-most-common bit of advice I've been given is this: muskoxen, bears and moose - mooses? meese? - are a thing, so don't f*** around with them. Given that I happen to be prone to walking around in remote places once I drive there, and also given the fact that the National Park Service has dispensed gems of advice like "If the attack is prolonged and the brown bear begins to feed on you, fight back vigorously!" Is it worth dealing with Canadian firearms laws to bring a rifle along with the other methods of ursine and/or bovid dissuasion?
In Unrelated News: I've not heard back from any of the fuel tank manufacturers or distributors that I contacted over the last several days...which is entirely unsurprising.
Weather: pack for wet and dry and mosquito's. Wet can get to be on the cool side so a sweater or two would be good.
Roads: paved road may have frost heaves. The stretch between the border and Tok has/is being rebuilt this year and don't know if there is still more for next year. Dirt roads, it's all in the timing as to when the graders have passed. Supposedly the Dalton hwy has 24/7 grading, but it all depends on your timing from our experience this last September.
Roads: off the main roads; not too many options here, especially on the Dalton hwy, which sucks. Denali hwy, Minto/Manley, Central/Circle, and McCarthy (this you have to watch for rail road spikes since this road is built upon a former rail road.
Roads-trails: There are clubs in Fairbanks and Anchorage/Matsu areas that might be good sources for trails. Thing to remember about trails is that you can run into mud bogs so some of these trails are not recommended for solo travel. If you read through my build thread it will give you some ideas as to what to expect.
Fuel: no issues, unless you want to do a lot of exploring between gas stations. Denali hwy has fuel at both ends but nothing in between so if you spend too much time exploring fuel could become an issue. Dempster hwy, Fairbanks-Coldfoot-Deadhorse. There might be seasonal fuel available just after the Yukon river bridge. Dempster hwy. beginning, Eagle Plains, probably Fort McPherson, Inuvik, Tuktioktuk. Other places probably the only places for fuel would be at or near the beginning of one way roads, like to McCarthy.
Camping: Gravel pits are quite numerous. I keep seeing cool places that people have camped, especially outsiders, that I have never been to and have no idea how to get to :-(
Communication: MRS radios seem to be the in thing. A spot or similar for emergency would be good too if you choose to get off the beaten path.
Big critters: My experience is they hide/ignore you 99% of the time. Moose ignore you unless you get inbetween a mother moose and a new born, some for bears. Otherwise the big critters don't want anything to do with you. Foxes can be inquisitive.
Firearms: That's for you to decide what you want/need. as you probably know you can ship a hand gun to a dealer in AK to pick up there. Canada don't know anything about taking rifles/shot guns into Canada.
If you get solid dates let us know and I would like to join if able. Might be time to drive the Dalton hwy again, we drove it back in 2002or 2003. Lots of mosquitos on that trip.
Roads: paved road may have frost heaves. The stretch between the border and Tok has/is being rebuilt this year and don't know if there is still more for next year. Dirt roads, it's all in the timing as to when the graders have passed. Supposedly the Dalton hwy has 24/7 grading, but it all depends on your timing from our experience this last September.
Roads: off the main roads; not too many options here, especially on the Dalton hwy, which sucks. Denali hwy, Minto/Manley, Central/Circle, and McCarthy (this you have to watch for rail road spikes since this road is built upon a former rail road.
Roads-trails: There are clubs in Fairbanks and Anchorage/Matsu areas that might be good sources for trails. Thing to remember about trails is that you can run into mud bogs so some of these trails are not recommended for solo travel. If you read through my build thread it will give you some ideas as to what to expect.
Fuel: no issues, unless you want to do a lot of exploring between gas stations. Denali hwy has fuel at both ends but nothing in between so if you spend too much time exploring fuel could become an issue. Dempster hwy, Fairbanks-Coldfoot-Deadhorse. There might be seasonal fuel available just after the Yukon river bridge. Dempster hwy. beginning, Eagle Plains, probably Fort McPherson, Inuvik, Tuktioktuk. Other places probably the only places for fuel would be at or near the beginning of one way roads, like to McCarthy.
Camping: Gravel pits are quite numerous. I keep seeing cool places that people have camped, especially outsiders, that I have never been to and have no idea how to get to :-(
Communication: MRS radios seem to be the in thing. A spot or similar for emergency would be good too if you choose to get off the beaten path.
Big critters: My experience is they hide/ignore you 99% of the time. Moose ignore you unless you get inbetween a mother moose and a new born, some for bears. Otherwise the big critters don't want anything to do with you. Foxes can be inquisitive.
Firearms: That's for you to decide what you want/need. as you probably know you can ship a hand gun to a dealer in AK to pick up there. Canada don't know anything about taking rifles/shot guns into Canada.
If you get solid dates let us know and I would like to join if able. Might be time to drive the Dalton hwy again, we drove it back in 2002or 2003. Lots of mosquitos on that trip.
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- #65
I will absolutely let you know; once things solidify in one direction or another I will post all of those details here. Also, I'm not slaved into a summer trip; other times will work just as well, providing they're after-spring.
Also, many thanks for that exhaustive list of advice.
1. If you stick to the road, you should be fine in any sort of vehicle. That being said, there's definitely situations where recovery gear is helpful - even on the unpaved highways, there are plenty of instances of folks (likely not you, but a third party) skidding off and needing to be recovered. Winch, traction boards, and a rope are always handy.
2. The only time I had to use my Troopy's sub-tank - ever, truth be told - was on the Canol Road, and that was with some side-exploration, and with plenty of reserves in the main tank.
3. There are some apps for overnight camps, that's my favourite way to search - usually with reviews, and sometimes pictures. Of course when you're truly off the beaten path, you can camp practically anywhere in the north.
4. Always have long sleeves, a waterproof shell, and some sort of down "puff" jacket. Weather can be cold, especially if you camp in the higher altitudes, and can certainly change quickly.
5. There are companies which rent satellite communicators. Or buy something like the Motorola Bullitt. Sat phone is overkill IMO, but some sort of satellite two-way communicator would be great, especially if you need help fixing something. Load up your contacts with your good friends who can either help directly or post online for assistance. Same for recovery, always good to be able to precisely describe your situation - I'm just stuck, need a pull, or my engine blew up and I need evacuation, or (god forbid), I'm injured and need to leave ASAP.
6. I'm Canadian, so I'm biased against firearms. Honestly, a can of bear spray will be more helpful than a gun in most cases, unless you're going to hunt. You will see more wildlife than you have likely ever seen before, but that's a positive. The wildlife is exactly that - wild (well, except for the bison near the main tourist routes and in specific areas).
I'll be down in Seattle in early June in my Troopy, so if you haven't left by then, maybe we can meet up
2. The only time I had to use my Troopy's sub-tank - ever, truth be told - was on the Canol Road, and that was with some side-exploration, and with plenty of reserves in the main tank.
3. There are some apps for overnight camps, that's my favourite way to search - usually with reviews, and sometimes pictures. Of course when you're truly off the beaten path, you can camp practically anywhere in the north.
4. Always have long sleeves, a waterproof shell, and some sort of down "puff" jacket. Weather can be cold, especially if you camp in the higher altitudes, and can certainly change quickly.
5. There are companies which rent satellite communicators. Or buy something like the Motorola Bullitt. Sat phone is overkill IMO, but some sort of satellite two-way communicator would be great, especially if you need help fixing something. Load up your contacts with your good friends who can either help directly or post online for assistance. Same for recovery, always good to be able to precisely describe your situation - I'm just stuck, need a pull, or my engine blew up and I need evacuation, or (god forbid), I'm injured and need to leave ASAP.
6. I'm Canadian, so I'm biased against firearms. Honestly, a can of bear spray will be more helpful than a gun in most cases, unless you're going to hunt. You will see more wildlife than you have likely ever seen before, but that's a positive. The wildlife is exactly that - wild (well, except for the bison near the main tourist routes and in specific areas).
I'll be down in Seattle in early June in my Troopy, so if you haven't left by then, maybe we can meet up
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- #67
Thanks again to both @coldtaco and @janyyc for all of that info; you've both already helped me figure out some better planning. Things on my mind at current:
- Can we talk about 24V winches at some point? I've sent a few questions to Ramsey but - ...wait for it... - haven't heard anything back.
- Communications, apps and mapping all need my attention; I guess I finally need to sit down and figure out Gaia.
- I think I need to get started on sorting out my long-delayed sleeping-quarters project...and that's not gonna be simple in a 73-series.
- I seem to have had more run-ins with wildlife back in North Carolina than anyone has had, out here...and I may well do some hunting. I will definitely be doing some fishing; I didn't bring all of that stuff out here with me for no reason.
You might need to prune some of the desired destinations away, depending on how long you're allocating to the trip. My general advice is not to rush it, do plenty of walking around. After Dalton and Fairbanks you could head south to Denali, then across the Denali highway to join Richardson highway. From there, either return to lower 48 or take another couple days for McCarthy.
I wouldn't be concerned about bears unless you plan to do back country exploring in Gates of the Arctic. This area has a lot of brown bears.
Moose pose the greatest threat to you if your vehicle happens to collide with one. Every year many moose are killed and vehicles totaled by these accidents. Same with Bison-don't run into one!
Stopping for the night outside of campgrounds is fairly easy in most parts of Alaska. Recovery gear is not needed unless going out of your way to off road. June and July will be buggy. Very unlikely to be cold anywhere, but I guess that depends upon your definition of cold.
Your biggest fuel challenge could be the Dalton Highway. You need a range of over 200 miles between pit stops there.
And BTW, you cannot access the Arctic Ocean via Deadhorse without booking a guided tour in advance because the road goes right through the oil fields.
Ferry through SE is kinda cool alright. That's my region. You could possibly disembark at Prince Rupert and drive home from there.
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- #70
DP80, I'll cover all of those excellent points here in just a few minutes; meanwhile...
Hang on just a second; having just Googled this on the understanding that it's an impossible suggestion and being immediately corrected, I have to ask: can we actually get Sherpa winches in the US???
Answer: Yes...yes we can.
Oh my.
Good to know. They're the only manufacturer who has responded to me, but I can't get a shipping quote from them.
Hang on just a second; having just Googled this on the understanding that it's an impossible suggestion and being immediately corrected, I have to ask: can we actually get Sherpa winches in the US???
Answer: Yes...yes we can.
Oh my.
Good to know. They're the only manufacturer who has responded to me, but I can't get a shipping quote from them.
Back when I had the BJ70 I had a 24V warn 8274
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- #72
Still working on processing and compiling the responses and advice thus far, but to address one point: I can dedicate several weeks to the Alaska trip, if need be. I'd like to really make it worth the haul.
Meanwhile: I'd like to sort out a quality - read: not Chineseium - awning for the rear of the rig. Something small, which won't add much weight, but will give me a dry space to get in and out of the back...and I'd like to figure out a way to mount it. Time to practice my Search-Fu.
...aaaaand that didn't take long. Looks like Eezi-Awn makes one that'll work for me...if I can figure out how to mount it.
Meanwhile: I'd like to sort out a quality - read: not Chineseium - awning for the rear of the rig. Something small, which won't add much weight, but will give me a dry space to get in and out of the back...and I'd like to figure out a way to mount it. Time to practice my Search-Fu.
...aaaaand that didn't take long. Looks like Eezi-Awn makes one that'll work for me...if I can figure out how to mount it.
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The down side to traveling to/from AK is the distance between AK and the lower 48. Average time Anchorage-Seattle is 3 full days of driving, not stopping to play tourist. So there is already basically one week of vacation used up
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- #74
Yep, that's a long stretch...and possibly a long one on the way back as well, because there aren't too many road options to begin with. That's why I considered taking the absurdly-expensive ferry on one leg.
Interested how you sort out mounting on your FRP. The Eezi-Awn shorty looks nice. Bought the 1.4M Front Runner one for the 77 a couple years ago. Love to utilize it on either rig. Quality is decent. Super nice having weather protection back there for sure.Still working on processing and compiling the responses and advice thus far, but to address one point: I can dedicate several weeks to the Alaska trip, if need be. I'd like to really make it worth the haul.
Meanwhile: I'd like to sort out a quality - read: not Chineseium - awning for the rear of the rig. Something small, which won't add much weight, but will give me a dry space to get in and out of the back...and I'd like to figure out a way to mount it. Time to practice my Search-Fu.
...aaaaand that didn't take long. Looks like Eezi-Awn makes one that'll work for me...if I can figure out how to mount it.
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- #76
Right now I have two ideas:
- Try to actually mount something to the FRP, which I think would go into the category of "bad ideas.
- Do exactly not-that and work from the frame upwards.
Now very interested in seeing option 2 unfold. Read somewheres on here about the 80 series FRO rack and feet working on the 73 size wise. That is a reportedly fragile drip rail/gutter solution though. I'll try to find the thread...
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- #78
I kind of have an idea in place, but I need to look pretty hard at the windshield hinges. If this was a TJ platform I wouldn't worry about it; that's a known and tested solution and we wouldn't even be having this discussion...but this isn't any of that, so it's all conjecture. Furthermore, if the windshield hinges *can't* work, I'm at Square One; I don't really want any excessive, projecting tube sticking out everywhere, and it's going to be hard enough to control that on the rear...so adding a set on the front might require me to seriously rethink everything.
I don't mind using the FRP itself, but I don't want to go anywhere near those gutters. I could shape some large-surface-area pads that literally adhese to the FRP and then pitch the rack from those standoffs mounts, but that's a very permanent solution.
Good to know on the 80-series rack; I was going to check with Frontrunner and Gobi, both, to see if one or the other had an existing platform that I can use. That would eliminate half of the work.
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- #80
Yep, that's the thread I was thinking of; the rear corner supports are what spawned the idea of pitching from lower on the chassis...that, and the Gobi I used to run on my LJ. I don't especially like the way the front is supported on the European racks, but it's not a bad idea...
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