Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!) (3 Viewers)

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There ia a small inline filter (mesh filter 22529-67010) in the incoming line on the left side of the pump, mine was clean but it is a while you were there check...
It is not in the PDF (page FU-20), but I do have it.
FILTER, FUEL PUMP. FILTER, FUEL PUMP (08.1980-08.1987) 3B,2H..BJ60,HJ60;

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Crick60 said:
Textbook 2h job, one of the rare parts Toyota got wrong.
Also there should be a water trap on one of the chassis rails about where the rear prop uni's are, back that nut off about half a turn and let the water run out for a second or two.
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Excellent, I have not yet checked the water trap. I actually have yet to get under this beast.
 
hj 60 said:
There ia a small inline filter (mesh filter 22529-67010) in the incoming line on the left side of the pump, mine was clean but it is a while you were there check...
It is not in the PDF (page FU-20), but I do have it.
FILTER, FUEL PUMP. FILTER, FUEL PUMP (08.1980-08.1987) 3B,2H..BJ60,HJ60;

file.php


file.php
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input, I will be checking the filter as well.
 
I paid a reasonable price. I like to believe I did well. I bought the truck sight unseen and considering it is not a conversion but rather Toyota built at the factory, with left hand drive and all the cool non USA upgrades, I think the price was right. The truck does need some attention. Brakes were SHOT,and by that i mean really gone. Pass side pads were missing material to the extent that only part of the rotor was making contact. Needless to say, $40 and 20 minutes later and the brakes are great now. I drove the truck from New Mexico to NY. Flew in and drove it home. Was disappointed that again I would have to replace the clutch as in my previous cruiser. The po never mentioned anything about the clutch being on its last legs. Regardless, I made it home. Lastly, she leaks oil from the rear main, (no problem as i will be doing the clutch so I will address that then). And, there is some rust. Nothing major and nowhere near as bad as my previous cruiser but still, there is some rust. To answer your question, I think I paid a fair price and I did negotiate with the po a bit (months). Someone else I know who has major "coinage" was gonna buy it. After backing out of the deal twice (I was the middleman), I decided that I would put in an offer for the truck and I ended up getting it. In the end the po and myself were satisfied with the deal we had reached.
 
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Today I replaced my injection pump's diaphragm. Thanks to the diesel section and cruiser heads in there, I now have a perfect running 2h. She still ran good but idled high. Done the fuel and air filters and now the only thing left to do are the injectors. After that I will be done with the engine bay.
 
Pics of damaged diaphragm
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I did the clutch replacement today. It turns out that it was new. Whoever done the job in the past must have installed a non compatible unit. It says excedy on it. I think that is a tunner crowd component. Regardless I installed an Aisin unit. I have also machined the flywheel. The pedal is still higher than I thought it would be. Anyone knows why?
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Another issue I found is that whoever serviced the t case before done screwed up the fill plug threads. It was loose when I put the truck on the lift. No wonder there was oil everywhere. I put in a new bolt but I was wondering if the case can be redrilled and retapped. If anyone could chime in on that. Other than that the truck is in good shape mechanically. Injectors are on the to do list next.
 
A dab of black RTV on the threads might be enough to stave off the leak. Otherwise, unfortunately I think your in it for a new half case.
 
I had been thinking about my clutch and I think I know why it engages almost at the top of the pedal stroke. I noticed that the flywheel barely had a step in it. Logically, I think it could make the clutch engage kind of late in the pedal stroke. Am I correct to assume so? I would like to know for sure before I end up dropping coin on a new, or used flywheel for that matter.
 
Ok Mudders, I have a question. Does anyone in the north east know of a competent toyota shop in the NY area, that can do a clutch install without effing things up? I had my clutch done by my old mechanic, as mentioned above, now i have a sort of knocking sound when clutch pedal is not depressed. If i depress it it goes away. This to me would sound like a transmission bearing issue, unless I am missing something. I only opted to have them do it because of time constraints and lack of a lift. I would have otherwise done the replacement myself.
 
I must mention that there were no sounds present prior to clutch install.
 
Well, im not going to. I live 90 miles away and i was down in the city for some business. And frankly, i don't want them touching my rig anymore. I will however pass by to give them a piece of my mind. Dumb asses.
 
I would wrap the leaky fill plug in many 'winds' of Teflon tape, and leave it at that.

RE: clutch engagement - I presume you realize that the shaft on the slave cylinder is adjustable, so that you can create the necessary free play in the pedal. If you have no free play (you should have 1" or so), then adjust this before pulling the tranny to find the knock. Pulling the trans. is the very last thing you want to try/do.
 
SteveH said:
I would wrap the leaky fill plug in many 'winds' of Teflon tape, and leave it at that.

RE: clutch engagement - I presume you realize that the shaft on the slave cylinder is adjustable, so that you can create the necessary free play in the pedal. If you have no free play (you should have 1" or so), then adjust this before pulling the tranny to find the knock. Pulling the trans. is the very last thing you want to try/do.
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Thanks for the advice
 
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