Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (2 Viewers)

mongoose2231 · Feb 6, 2015

More stuff for my cruiser. New exterior base of window/ top of door seals. The non chrome version.

Loving them. As usual, thank you Beno!

surfrider619 · Feb 13, 2015

Enjoying this thread :popcorn:

.
Did you put in a 24v or 12v stereo? If 24v what and where did you get? If 12v what is your setup?

mongoose2231 · Feb 13, 2015

I put in a 12v stereo. I used a coverter- step down device ( I'll take a pic of it) to drop the voltage. I currently am running the stereo off that but I bought a blue sea fuse box that I pln to wire in, and the take the 12v feed for all my other accessories out of it. I also want to run a single relay ahead of the fuse box so that I don't clog up the wiring with all these relays. I'm not sure if that's best but I can at least try.

surfrider619 · Feb 13, 2015

I plan on doing similar. How have your batteries been since the install? Wondering if one has to have a setup like the "Stone" write up https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/in...eo-head-unit-in-24v-hj60.298032/#post-4655150
keep the batteries stable?

mongoose2231 · Feb 14, 2015

Wow, that thread is full of great info. I have my solar converter wired into the cig lighter. From there my plan is to wire a relay and then the fuse box, then tap into it for ally gadgets. I don't know much about electrical circuits either but there's just so much info on here to help with setting up my system as best I can. My batteries are fine too. One of th has a slight acid leak at the neg terminal but they seem to be ok.

mongoose2231 · Apr 8, 2015

I have some updates on my truck. My oil pressure gauge always read high ever since I got the old beast (8 Mos) or so. I never made anything of it until I stumbled into some posts about extremely high oil pressure in the 2 h motor.

mongoose2231 · Apr 8, 2015

So I went ahead and got a mechanical gauge and it turns out that I ran my truck at extremely high pressures ever since I got it. After warm up the gauge reads about 55 to 60 psi at idle. It climbs above 100 at as low as 1750 rpm. I know I have to change my oil pressure relief valve , have one on the way already ( thanks to @beno) I guess my question is whether I did premature damage to my engine in the last 8 months. I have put about 5k miles on it since I got it. 2k on the drive home from New Mexico alone back in June of last year. I have no oil leaks and engine runs real good, except for excessive black smoke ever since I got the beast. Any input is appreciated. Some pics below.

Last pic shows gauge at idle after warm up.

ontherxs · Apr 9, 2015

You mind linking to the 2h threads?On the factory gauge mine reads high as well but drops to mid high once it's warm. I hadn't put any thought into it but I'll need to look into that pressure relief valve. More detail is appreciated. Leaves me thinking I don't want to fix what's not broken but what if I don't know it's broken.

mongoose2231 · Apr 9, 2015

here's one of the threads:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/replacing-the-oil-pressure-relief-valve-in-a-2h.483033/
From what I read, it's a very easy fix. I have my valve on the way already. Will try to tackle over the weekend. I will post pics and report on the fix. Also, simply google "2h pressure relief valve" You'll find a lot of info on the subject.

surfrider619 · Apr 9, 2015

What should psi at idle and under load 2000-2500 be?

mongoose2231 · Apr 9, 2015

ACcording to fsm, the oil pressure should be somewhere between 35psi at idle to max 85psi in the high rev range.

gregnash · Apr 10, 2015

I am going to have to do this soon as I tweaked my gauge last weekend when I inappropriately installed the lead on the wrong connection (common problem). I know I read of one guy being able to get it to work properly again but figure that since this is mainly an idiot gauge in the first place I need to add mechanical Vacuum and Oil Pressure gauges to my truck.

mongoose2231 · Apr 10, 2015

Hey Greg, these are really easy to install. I say go for it.

mongoose2231 · Apr 10, 2015

Thanks @beno, got the stuff. Will install tonight.

mongoose2231 · Apr 10, 2015

ok boys, 30 minutes of work including removal of steering stabiliser, here are the findings. Old valve had slight scuffing. Barely, that I couldn't believe it could actually get stuck. Put in new valve, problem solved. Pressure is now per manual.

mongoose2231 · Apr 10, 2015

The last photo is hot idle. Full throttle reaches about 90. I hope the fix will last just don't know how long.

hj 60 · Apr 11, 2015

Good result, Thanks a lot for the pictures, mine is fine with 280.000 km but this seems something every diesel gets.
Did you use special tools (in some video allan grinds tools to fit, lol)

If the seal to the clutch starts leaking or the filter explodes more trouble so thinking about preventive change.

Forget below, just spend two hours searching :beer:

asked dealer for price :bounce:

EDIT: dealer mail: 15131-22010 = :hmm:

€ 7.24

Search does not help me as I cant find this part in europe, and shipping (IF out of state) is like a zillion dollars somehow:
I dont want to buy the ship :censor:

Found a complete pump revision kit, I dont get it, it seems this does not happen in europe?
:bang:

Again I give up on ordering this part online, might have to ask dealer because in europe that somehow is the only way.
no price, but in netherlands: http://cruiserworld.eu/parts/60-series/engines-engine-parts?prod_id=132322

H 2H 12HT Engine
part 15134-20010 gasket oil pump release
part 15131-22010 ; 15131-25010 VALVE, OIL ADJUSTING; VALVE, OIL PUMP RELIEF. VALVE,RELIEF

Oil Pump Relief Valve and Spring to suit Toyota Landcruiser H 3.6L, 2H 4.0L and 12HT 4.0L 6 Cyl diesel engines.
Suit HJ45 with H engine 1/1975-6/1980, HJ47 HJ60 HJ75 with 2H engine 8/1980-12/1989 and HJ61 with 12HT engine 10/1985-12/1989. This kit contains the oil pump spring and relief valve. Genuine Toyota parts.

ALVE, OIL ADJUSTING; VALVE, OIL PUMP RELIEF.
VALVE,RELIEF
Stock Code 1513122010 ; 1513125010
Manufacturer Toyota
Categories Tool/Engine/Fuel Grp
Assemblies ENGINE OIL COOLER (4M; MX3#); ENGINE OIL PUMP (1600CC; TE3#,51); ENGINE OIL PUMP (1800CC; COROLLA (TE72)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CELICA (RA42)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CORONA (RT119); ATM,3-SPEED COLUMN SHIFT; 2200CC; CORONA (RT105); ATM,3-SPEED FLOOR SHIFT; 4D); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; CORONA (RT134)); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2200CC; TRUCK, PICKUP (RN32),42); ENGINE OIL PUMP (2H; LAND CRUISER (HJ60))

mongoose2231 · May 27, 2015

Ok so tonight, after some occasional mushy pedal, I have decided to rebuild my rear brakes, since the fronts were done already. Not a difficult job at all. I rebuilt the existing cylinders with toyota pistons and such. Brand new toyota pads as well. Brakes are better now. Still think they could be better. Will drive the truck to work tomorrow to see how they behave. I used the backup and apply hand brake method to set my pads. I did however mannually turned the toothed wheel prior to installing the drums, just up to the point of barely dragging. Only took one pic of pass side completed brake assembly. Also pics of the before. My wife helped me bleed them good. I'm happy with the results so far. First pic is what I found, second is what is in there now.