Builds Our PanAm rig build thread (1 Viewer)

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The truck is going strong without a problem so far. Mexico is amasing and full of kind helpfull people. Here's a few shots of the rig.
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Detail after detail a very well done job, even the holes on the storage system, I bet you be a kiddo with a CNBC router..

The workmanship in the metal is outstanding too..

Congratulation and many million of happy miles..

One question, where did you place the relays...?
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And a hint..

Hydro brakes on bicycles tend the form bubbles, bubble tend to move to the highest point, in your case the caliper, not the master cylinder.

Just FWI
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I decided to go ahead and Try to come up with a way to mount 2 Scepter Military fuel cans in the spare tire location. The main advantage for me is to have only one swing out on the rear bumper, be able to bring 2 Jerry cans for emergency/better range, keep the weight low and be easy enough to get to them for the odd time that I will.

The basket is made from 3x3x 1/4 6061 aluminum angle. I used the factory holes on the cross member to mount a bracket for the hinges. I also used the factory spare tire chain winch to raise and lower the basket.
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The factory spring loaded bracket locks in to a receiver tray bolted to the back of the basket.
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The chain winch is bolted to the rear bumper.
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When in the fully up position the front lip of the chain receiver tray stops against a stopper welded to the hitch cross member. In this position, it is very easy to take full Jerry's on and off the basket.
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I hope you don't mind, but I'm going to steal your drop down box idea.

In my case I'm going to make it into a ''four bar linkage'' so they tray end up right under the bumper and also stay parallel to the truck..

Ps; you chain idea is fantastic too, I willing my self thinking of decreasing rate linkages and hydro shaft, but you beat me in the head with a big old chain..

Please re to read your building adventure...

Ricky
 
Detail after detail a very well done job, even the holes on the storage system, I bet you be a kiddo with a CNBC router..

The workmanship in the metal is outstanding too..

Congratulation and many million of happy miles..

One question, where did you place the relays...?
IMG_0295-X2.jpg


And a hint..

Hydro brakes on bicycles tend the form bubbles, bubble tend to move to the highest point, in your case the caliper, not the master cylinder.

Just FWI
IMG_0291-X3.jpg
The only switched circuit is the arb compressor. I mounted the relay using the providyed
wiring harness, so the relay is mounted close to the unit.

I have not had a problem with the brakes on the bikes yet. The key is to have a perfect bleed. If the brakes are spongy after beeing upside down for a while, I usually just pump the brakes a bit and it goes away.

Thanks for the good comments. Good luck with the linkage idea.
 
At the start of our road trip, we went to ebi cruiser in vancouver where John(former ATEB owner and diesel guru) did a bunch of work on the truck.
Power rod mod
Valve clearence
Changed all the turbo hoses
Brake bleed
Oil change
ACSD delete
Pump timing adjustment
Boost controller

Since that It is a completelly diffrent truck. I run 15 psi boost and now my egt are now muck lower. I used to have to be carefull going up big hills but now even in warm weather and 3500m elevation I never hit 1200f pre turbo. The extra power is great too. I can maintain 75mpg up big hills, at gvw with a rtt and 35"tires. I average 22mpg with crazy mexican roads.
 
The only switched circuit is the arb compressor. I mounted the relay using the providyed
wiring harness, so the relay is mounted close to the unit., great to know electricity confuses me..
I have not had a problem with the brakes on the bikes yet. The key is to have a perfect bleed. If the brakes are spongy after beeing upside down for a while, I usually just pump the brakes a bit and it goes away.
i only run hope's and XTR ''STI'' (one my snow bike)
Zero problems since forever, and many canti's rollercams and v-brakes

Just for fun.
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Avids never, I know better..
Thanks for the good comments. Good luck with the linkage idea.
I need to get under there and checking/measure the space, but thanks to your chain trick is going to work, well I'm going to use a 4' to down nylon strap and then pins to hold the basket
 
Damn. I knew I should have gotten a diesel, 75 MPG!!! :lol:
 
Awesome road trip, and awesome truck!
 
Flyaddiction, I love that drop down jerry can carrier. I started a thread a few years ago about carrying Jerry cans where the spare tire went. I was picturing the exact thing you built but you did a much better job then i ever imagined. two thumbs up!!!!

Last summer i built a crappy little wooden box that fit under there just to test my idea. I carried several gal of spare fluids like anti freeze and ATF cross country. It worked great but was just too "crappy" to leave on my truck. The idea is a sound and somone realy needs to exploit that area in a cost effective way. Heavy dirty things like fuel, spare fluids or spare parts life bifeisds, starters or drive shafts would be great under there.
 
My Mitsubishi Van has a spare carrier under there that provides an idea. Its kind of an exoskeleton frame to hold the spare, and lowers like the Cruiser's spare lowering system. It's made of thick wire rod - a quarter inch diameter. Its more or less a wire tray with only 2 crossbars. If you built a stout exo frame that used the spare lift to go up and down, a variety of things could fit. There are a lot of stout waterproof boxes and the like that could fit, and spare fluids, parts and the like could be wrapped in plastic and stored there. A section of a deliberately chosen worn tire tread cut out to span the rear might disguise anything of value to the casual onlooker. Due consideration for vibration (wears through plastic bags) should be given.
 
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wiring harness, so the relay is mounted close to the unit., great to know electricity confuses me..
i only run hope's and XTR ''STI'' (one my snow bike)
Zero problems since forever, and many canti's rollercams and v-brakes

Just for fun.
Purple%20tandem%20024.jpg

Avids never, I know better..
I need to get under there and checking/measure the space, but thanks to your chain trick is going to work, well I'm going to use a 4' to down nylon strap and then pins to hold the basket
Ibis! Sweet!
 
Whenever you reach Panama, let me know, would love to see your truck with all those mods...here we have 4x4 panama (see videos in youtube) and lots of nice places to visit, I live in Panama city, Panama, as you will enter from Costa Rica, you could visit Chiriqui and Volcán (nice weather) once you come closer to Colombia, that´s where I'll be...I PM some more info
 
Got myself a new tow to help with the fabrication of several mods for the rig.
I first started with an oil catck can to reduce the amount of junk going in the intake. I could of bent a lot of the aluminum instead of welding it all but the goal was to practice before i take on the intercooler build. There will be ss scrub pad material between the baffles to help catch all the oils and contaminants.
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Got myself a new tow to help with the fabrication of several mods for the rig.
I first started with an oil catck can to reduce the amount of junk going in the intake. I could of bent a lot of the aluminum instead of welding it all but the goal was to practice before i take on the intercooler build. There will be ss scrub pad material between the baffles to help catch all the oils and contaminants.
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just built my first rack ever and was so worried about weight thought I did great until I saw yours and saw your weight at about 70lbs LESS than mine. WTF well It wont be my first apparently great thread.
 
Finished the catch can install. I added a drain valve at the bottom and used some silicone heater hose I had kicking around to connect it all up. If the silicone deteriorates ill just change to proper pcv hose.
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Since we came back from the trip I changed all fluids, changed all v-belts, repacked the knuckles, fuel and air filter and greased the drive line.

I also installed a part time spool in the transfer case to convert to part time 4wd. I opted for the Lokka brand. delivery took just about 2 weeks. Install was quite easy and took me evenings to complete. I also purchased and rebuilt a set of used 60 series Asin hubs. All included the hubs set me back roughly 200$. wile I was in there I changed all the hub studs and hardware.
First impression is good so far with noticeable lighter feel in the steering and better accelerations. But the greatest change is in the complete elimination of the light drive line clunk I had when quickly pressing the clutch after accelerating or accelerating from idle and compression.

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Got my hands on a brand new thermo top unit locally for 700$. The guy was nice enough to trow in a used Air Top 2000st with all the bits needed for free!!

The challenge for me was the previously installed ARB compressor in the location that everyone installs theirs. I was trying to avoid having to relocate it and all the plumbing and wiring that comes with it.
By slightly adjusting the angle of the compressor and the air outlet, I managed to squeeze the Webasto between the fuel filter and the compressor.
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I welded a simple piece of 3/16 steel to the fuel filter bracket
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I also bent a couple chunks of 1/8 aluminum plate to create heat deflectors the protect vacuum and brake lines from exhaust heat. looks terrible, but it is invisible when the heater is in place.
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