OPOR - GX470 Slider Install (1 Viewer)

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So here is the passenger side solution to using no rivet/nutcerts.

HUGE thanks to @little_joe aka Joe for making this little bracket. We both talked about this and why in the world Metal Tech doesn't just include this we can't understand. Very easy to put in place through the back access hole in the frame right at the center leg. Make sure this goes on first before the through the frame bolt supplied by MT for the center leg is installed.

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Done!




Passenger side middle leg with 1/2" bolts into the bracket shown above. You still need to drill an additional hole in the bottom of the frame for the 2nd bolt. I mounted up the front and rear loosely then stepping up in bit sizes drilled it out to 1/2". Hole doesn't need to be perfect since I was bolting to the bracket made with the nuts on them.
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Passenger side front leg. 8mm top bolt then using my same method from the driver side took a coat hanger wire tightly wrapped the bolt with a washer and fished it through the frame then just hit it with the impact gun. Snug as a rug...
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So here is the passenger side solution to using no rivet/nutcerts.

HUGE thanks to @little_joe aka Joe for making this little bracket. We both talked about this and why in the world Metal Tech doesn't just include this we can't understand. Very easy to put in place through the back access hole in the frame right at the center leg. Make sure this goes on first before the through the frame bolt supplied by MT for the center leg is installed.

View attachment 1993463

Done!




Passenger side middle leg with 1/2" bolts into the bracket shown above. You still need to drill an additional hole in the bottom of the frame for the 2nd bolt. I mounted up the front and rear loosely then stepping up in bit sizes drilled it out to 1/2". Hole doesn't need to be perfect since I was bolting to the bracket made with the nuts on them.
View attachment 1993466


Passenger side front leg. 8mm top bolt then using my same method from the driver side took a coat hanger wire tightly wrapped the bolt with a washer and fished it through the frame then just hit it with the impact gun. Snug as a rug...
View attachment 1993467

View attachment 1993464
This is a great solution!!
Pose it to @helocat as a potential change for their mounting kit, esp with the number of rivnut spinners and very tight tolerance in hold diameter for the rivnut and it's fitment w/o the proper tools.

I'll be seeing my set in a few hours and I like this solution for that bottom of the pass 3rd leg.

For the POR peeps, where do you get the stuff? Is it off the shelf in regular stores (HD, Lowe's, etc?) Or an Amazon thing?
 
If 2 legs on driver's side is strong enough, why we even need this middle leg?
 
If 2 legs on driver's side is strong enough, why we even need this middle leg?
Great question! Metal Tech says that the driver side is actually engineered differently. I will tell you I looked closely and saw nothing. HOWEVER if the gauge of metal used is different on the legs side to side that would explain it. That’s something you can’t tell from looking at them because the ends are capped. So it’s just taking them for their word really. I would not have bought these if it hadn’t been for the deep discount on them and that they are the longest in use design for the GX, so I liked that I have never read of a failure. But it seems like the ones that connect at least 3 times to the frame would be a better design. But again these are time tested and have worked.
 
If 2 legs on driver's side is strong enough, why we even need this middle leg?
they used to b e 3-legged both sides, but then KDSS necessitated a driver side change, and when you can make one jig to fit KDSS or not, then the 3rd leg driver side fell away.
 
I laid eyes on my sliders today. beffy as fu! I'm psyched.

So, in finally actually looking at them, the rear leg, both sides is mounted at a slkight angle... Is this the way they go? Front and middle leg tubes are welded square (flat top and bottom) but the rear legs are welded at a slant. The square tube is at an angle from straight, more diamond so apecies (apex, plural...sp? :) ) are up and down vs. flat sides of the square tube. And therefore the plate against the frame is at an angle, not straight up and down....
 
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Yep that’s the design. Go get them on! @DRANGED
 
they used to b e 3-legged both sides, but then KDSS necessitated a driver side change, and when you can make one jig to fit KDSS or not, then the 3rd leg driver side fell away.
@JLee gor the earlier 3 leg version and he got to cut it. Which is why I am questioning the middle leg on the passenger side.

The rear plate are pretty long at an angle that is the main bulk of the strength. I think 2 legs with same like rear mounting plate would be way stronger than the 3 nutsert on the passenger side. It's not the nutsert is the weak point but denting the main frame is my main concern. White knuckle ustilize this design and its way easier install.

I do like the look of this Opor slider. The rounded die punch hole really give it distinctive look while not adding too much weight.
 
@subspd tomorrow is a prep and treat day... Should get it all done.. ;)
But...

tips and tricks for POR-15 treatment... mainly where to buy it in-store? 🤔
 
@subspd tomorrow is a prep and treat day... Should get it all done.. ;)
But...

tips and tricks for POR-15 treatment... mainly where to buy it in-store? 🤔
Amazon
 
So here is the passenger side solution to using no rivet/nutcerts.

HUGE thanks to @little_joe aka Joe for making this little bracket. We both talked about this and why in the world Metal Tech doesn't just include this we can't understand. Very easy to put in place through the back access hole in the frame right at the center leg. Make sure this goes on first before the through the frame bolt supplied by MT for the center leg is installed.

View attachment 1993463

Nice Job ^^^...

Looks similar to my solution to the same issue - Pics and measurements found here:

I really think that's a better method than rivnut's, especially for something you're gonna bash on rocks!

- Brian
 
Yeah, so no-go today.
researching and prepping for ordering the stuff, however.

Do it once do it right.
Looks like July will the the time. . . .
 
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I've now installed 2 sliders in KDSS rigs.
Thumbs down to the MT version. Granted I bit off a scosh more by avoiding the rivet nut and going for stick nuts inserted into the frame (DS access hole is partly obscured by KDSS lines), but the rear driver leg "slipping" OVER the KDSS lines and unbolting the pump from the frame rail and trying to wrestle with the weird retaining hook/brackets. Ugh!

So all told, the driver side (per directions) is held on by a 7/16" monster U-bolt, an 8mm bolt threaded into captive nut and a 5/8" river nut (I skipped the rivet nut in lieu of a 7/16" grade 8 bolt (washer amd.lock.washer) into a grade 8 nut welded to a tab and fed into the frame with a wire leash).

"Negotiating" placement of the DS rear foot over the KDSS lines and under the brake was...,......cumbersome at best with potential for body or at least paint damage.

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In continuing with contributions of experiences with installing the MT/OPOR sliders in a GX470 KDSS, I FINALLY got around to mine.

I Sleeved the PS middle leg upper bolt amd will weld it in later but it's a good snug sandwich bolt fit.

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Based on so many reports in this thread alone, I opted to avoid the rivet nut for bolting to the box frame wall.

I made stick nuts for the front leg lower holes (which I drilled out a little) and used grade 8 7/16" hardware.

The passenger side was fine, there's an access hole opposite and a little higher from the location, so bending the wire (I chose pooy... my wire is too thick for easy bending by hand) was easy for a flush nut placement inside the outer frame wall.
The DS is different, the KDSS lines obscure the hole so that stick nut got.......interesting. 😤😫
As of now...(after an 8-hr work/install day), that lower DS front bolt is still not yet placed 😒
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I also followed what @orion, and @subspd via ER=16808]@little_joe[/USER] and made a paired stick nut for the PS middle leg. I bolted through the existing front hole and still have to drill out a rear hole, but the grade 8 7/16" nut is already in place now.
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I can corroborate that the front KDSS skid plate needs a little notching to accommodate the DS front leg.

And here's the driver side access hole I used for inserting my custom stick nut to bolt the leg on vs using the supplied rivnut/nutsert.

It's obscured by KDSS lines and the front KDSS plumbing skid plate.

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FYI to all, I just installed White Knuckle sliders on my buddy's GX this weekend and what a dream compared to my experience with the OPOR sliders. Just six U-bolts and the only pain was needing to remove the brake lines from the clip on top of the DS rear frame.
 
FWIW, I've tagged WNO spider pix as comparisons previously.

I'll cuncur with @Bluetribal's install experience!
Yes, they're WAAY easier to install. They come with 2*3 main slider tube and can have a slight up-angle to the outer tube vs flat.
They're feet (plate steel against the frame) are a little smaller than OPOR/MT, and they're length is a couple inches shorter overalll but the deck can be fully plated.

I'd researched and was set on those then a buddy pulled the trigger first so I got to help install them.

They're an amazing value and install IS a dream!

MT/OPOR have a reputation (one should know the OPOR version for GXs isn't the same as MT slider for say 100s or 200s) and were the first KDSS-compliant sliders for GXs, and they could stand for a little R&D improvement and revisiting the install design (effing nutcerts).

Props and thanks again for this thread @Bluetribal and for all who've contributed to it's details!

FYI to all, I just installed White Knuckle sliders on my buddy's GX this weekend and what a dream compared to my experience with the OPOR sliders. Just six U-bolts and the only pain was needing to remove the brake lines from the clip on top of the DS rear frame.
 
I'll also interject that I feel the passenger 3-legged design (no surprise) is superior in strength (torque leverage) vs the 2-legged driver side. I haven't yet high-lifted off my MT/OPOR sliders but I will post it when I do.
I suspect more deflection from driver vs passenger, based on observations seeing them used as steps.
 
Did anybody experience the slider tapping the pinch weld when you hit big bump? Rear driver's side is touching the body pinch weld. This is really bad when i have full load inside the cabin. Have 3 people and about 500-600 lbs of cargo today and it was hitting really bad.
 

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