Thx Kurt. I guess its more complicated than I thought. He bought a GX470 with the susp installed. Had been on the GX 6mos. Purchased from Slee Offroad who told him to contact ARB. Its an eye-opener to see ARB do the dance and not stand behind their products. He will be trashing the OME susp and moving on to a company that has support and stands behind their products. Lesson learned. ARB lost a customer for life.
OME BP-51 OWNERS...... ROLL CALL......... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dukmon
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Thx Kurt. I guess its more complicated than I thought. He bought a GX470 with the susp installed. Had been on the GX 6mos. Purchased from Slee Offroad who told him to contact ARB. Its an eye-opener to see ARB do the dance and not stand behind their products. He will be trashing the OME susp and moving on to a company that has support and stands behind their products. Lesson learned. ARB lost a customer for life.
Sorry to hear that... all over a part that cost a few bucks. Is he interested in selling his OME take-off kit? I'll give him some $$$ before he tosses it in the trash!
A10Driver
SILVER Star
Finally fixed the annoying squeek from the top of the back shocks. I added one of stock flat washers to the bottom of the shocks below the rubber bushing. This enabled me to tighten the shock more. I feel like without the extra washer there was not enough thread to fully tighten the shock and squeeze the bushings enough. I then removed the top ome washer that has the ridge on it and replaced it with a stock washer that is more flat. So far no noise. Hope this helps
A10Driver
SILVER Star
Started squeaking almost immediately, not the shocks, just the top mounting point on rear shocks
Markuson
SILVER Star
Mine did that too. Rubber can squeak when it rubs stuff...so not like some major flaw. But certainly annoying at low speeds where no other noise is present.
A10Driver
SILVER Star
It wasn't the rubber, it was the fact that the threads on the shocks didn't allow me to tighten them enough. This made the washers loose enough that they would rub on the frame mounting holes going over bumps. Adding a stock washer to the bottom enabled me to tighten them more and eliminate the squeaking metal sound completely.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ah. Ya, that is pretty annoying.
Are you staying that you removed all ARB washers and changed them to stock washers (in the same order)?
A10Driver
SILVER Star
Nope, I added one flat washer to the bottom. So starting at the shock/ bottom I now have two flat washers, ome rubber bushing, stock ridged washer, and continuing above the mounting point I have a stock flat washer with no ridge, ome bushing, ome flat washer, ome small washer and nut
Markuson
SILVER Star
Maybe post a photo if possible...?
A10Driver has the correct fix for the "squeak" and "clunk" from OME shocks, not just the BP-51. The grip length or unthreaded portion of shaft is the same length as a stock shock shaft. The problem is that the OME rubber bushings are loosing their elasticity quickly and are get mushy. This is the only common denominator between all of their shocks that have "squeak" and or "CLUNK" that has been discussed for many years now.
If you do not have this problem then you most likely received higher quality rubber bushing to start with, QC.
If you do not have this problem then you most likely received higher quality rubber bushing to start with, QC.
I figured I’d post my SQOD here versus that thread because it is specific to my BP-51 adjustment. I bought used and didn’t get an owners manual. I’ve been fiddling with my BP-51 settings and haven’t settled on anything yet, I’ve just confused myself. So on the the SQOD:
For the compression setting, does the smaller number mean more or less (easier or harder) downward movement.
And for the rebound setting, does the smaller number mean easier or harder (faster or slower) rebound?
I thought I knew until I started adjusting and confused myself.
For the compression setting, does the smaller number mean more or less (easier or harder) downward movement.
And for the rebound setting, does the smaller number mean easier or harder (faster or slower) rebound?
I thought I knew until I started adjusting and confused myself.
Adjustability Another distinctive feature of BP-51 is the ability to independently adjust the compression and rebound damping, both of which can be quickly and easily tweaked on the vehicle as conditions dictate, using the C-spanner provided. This is done by simply reaching under the guard with the C-spanner and turning the dial to the desired setting. Compression and rebound damping can be independently adjusted through a range of 10 clearly marked settings; an increase in the number essentially increases the stiffness of the shim stack inside the shock absorber body which restricts bypass oil flow, increasing damping throughout the entire stroke. The damper settings typically are set in the factory prior to shipment to suit vehicles fitted with a bar and winch, but there are setting suggestions for vehicles fitted only with a bar, or those fitted with nothing up front. This is designed to provide the optimum damping comfort and control on smooth to moderate surfaces. So when would you adjust the damping? Say the road conditions you’re travelling along deteriorate and there are deep corrugations and a series of washouts. In this case you might increase the compression damping a couple of clicks and raise the rebound damping by three clicks, giving the shock more resistance to compression and the ability to better control rebound. BP-51 also features adjustable spring preload so that it can be easily set up at the installation stage to suit vehicles with different accessories fitted. “The BP-51 fitting instructions list preload settings for given accessory fitments,” says Stuart. “They’ll explain that the distance from the body cap to the top of the adjustable preload ring should be, say, 20mm for a bar and winch, but if you’ve just got a bar only then maybe back that back to 15mm, and back to 10mm if you’ve got no accessories at all. The guys in the factory set it up for a bar and winch, so it’s compressing the spring to the greatest extent for the most weight of the accessory fitment, because it’s easier to back it off than it is to compress it down.”
That’s great information that I didn’t have before, thank you so much. It fits what I thought the adjustment should would do but didn’t seem to fit my experience.
I was trying to be scientific about it and should have taken notes as I dont recall the exact settings for my rear shocks but I started at around a 2 compression and 4/5 rebound I think. I am running a Trekboxx system, loaded with a fridge and permanent stuff in the drawers, a plate bumper with dual swing outs, one with a second spare and one with a can basket when loaded. I’ve got a roof rack that’s empty. In short, I’m heavy so I run OME 2725s.
It’s a stiff ride when “empty”, defines as not loaded with stuff on the rack, camping gear, two full Jerry’s and propane on the other swing out. I don’t mind the stiffness so much but it tended to bounce more than I’d like over cross gutters and such. I started my scientific adjustment by reducing the rebound to 1. Same bounce only faster.
Next I reduced the compression to 1 as well. I can confirm this was the more difficult adjustment. It was bouncier. I then increased the rebound to 9 for testing and experimentation. It felt like I was riding on balloons so I figured it wasn’t moving and the tires were acting as the suspension. For further experimentation I cranked the compression to 9 and the bounce went away! I was shocked. (Sorry for the pun.) It rides a bit like a sports car and has very little movement when empty. I don’t mind it but I might not like it long term. I’m very curious to see what it does when I add load.
Overall, I guess effectively eliminated my suspension travel at 9/9. It works but isn’t exactly an effective use of such a nice system. Maybe I need to look at some softer springs that can carry the load when I do load all my camping gear in/on.
I was trying to be scientific about it and should have taken notes as I dont recall the exact settings for my rear shocks but I started at around a 2 compression and 4/5 rebound I think. I am running a Trekboxx system, loaded with a fridge and permanent stuff in the drawers, a plate bumper with dual swing outs, one with a second spare and one with a can basket when loaded. I’ve got a roof rack that’s empty. In short, I’m heavy so I run OME 2725s.
It’s a stiff ride when “empty”, defines as not loaded with stuff on the rack, camping gear, two full Jerry’s and propane on the other swing out. I don’t mind the stiffness so much but it tended to bounce more than I’d like over cross gutters and such. I started my scientific adjustment by reducing the rebound to 1. Same bounce only faster.
Next I reduced the compression to 1 as well. I can confirm this was the more difficult adjustment. It was bouncier. I then increased the rebound to 9 for testing and experimentation. It felt like I was riding on balloons so I figured it wasn’t moving and the tires were acting as the suspension. For further experimentation I cranked the compression to 9 and the bounce went away! I was shocked. (Sorry for the pun.) It rides a bit like a sports car and has very little movement when empty. I don’t mind it but I might not like it long term. I’m very curious to see what it does when I add load.
Overall, I guess effectively eliminated my suspension travel at 9/9. It works but isn’t exactly an effective use of such a nice system. Maybe I need to look at some softer springs that can carry the load when I do load all my camping gear in/on.
Last edited:
I recently switched to BP-51 from my prior Fox setup. There have been several mentions of creating a spreadsheet, but I don't believe anyone ever did that. Trying to learn from others' experience, I have aggregated the settings that I found posted. Hopefully this will help future searchers.
I see this as a work in progress... I am happy to update/append this post as more information is presented, so please either PM me or add your settings to this thread and I'll put them in the matrix above. That way, as the list grows, we can see trends of successful settings given various weights and equipment.
Other good related threads:
Adjusting compression and rebound on rear BP-51s
Anyone swap rear springs?
2722 or 2723
| mrcwineman | c2 | r7 | c3 | r8 | ARB bull bar w/winch, BudBuilt sliders, drawers, and at least 200lbs of SAR gear in the back all the time. | |
| mark71 | 2 | 8 | 2? | 8? | 0mm preload; 2722 springs. No bumper, but drawers and RTT | |
| Carbonman | ? | ? | ? | ? | 5mm preload and 2721 rears per Slee's recommendation; 285/70r17 no weight | |
| dukmon | 1 | 6 | 1 | 5 | ? | |
| arich | 2 | 7 | 2 | 7 | no weight, 0mm preload, 2720 rear springs | |
| Taco2Cruiser | 8 | 7 | 8 | 7 | 300lb roof, 400lb on truck, 2723 rear springs | |
| Markuson | 6 | 8 | 6 | 8 | TJM T13+Zeon12SP, Slee Sliders/R Bumper+3Can+HiLift+Fire, BBuilt Skids+Rshock+RUCA guards | |
| brasskey | 5 | 8 | 5 | 8 | bull bar, dual batteries, compressor; "a little bouncy" | |
| alta | 4 | 8 | 3 | 8 | 2722s, bull bar (no winch), gobi rack, sliders, 18mm preload (Slee's rec) |
I see this as a work in progress... I am happy to update/append this post as more information is presented, so please either PM me or add your settings to this thread and I'll put them in the matrix above. That way, as the list grows, we can see trends of successful settings given various weights and equipment.
Other good related threads:
Adjusting compression and rebound on rear BP-51s
Anyone swap rear springs?
2722 or 2723
Last edited:
Looks like I have 176lbs of Long Travel BP-51'a with Springs and all the trimmings being delivered tomorrow! To be installed on a 97 3x locked, rust free, 140k mile, Kazuma SC'ed FZJ80 on 35's.
So pumped! Thanks Kurt and Team at Cruiser Outfitters!
To be installed on a 97 3x locked, rust free, 140k mile, Kazuma SC'ed FZJ80 on 35's. So pumped! Thanks Kurt and Team at Cruiser Outfitters!
Hey, I hope this thread is not dead. What preload are you running, especially those of you who are running steel bull bar. I'm currently at 25mm preload with 1/2" strut spacer and my truck still has some rake. I read somewhere on a forum about a guy running 28mm preload any advice?
kcjaz
SILVER Star
I’m at 20 mm with no strut spacer and that made me dead level with back totally empty (TJM front bumper stock rear, 2721 rear springs). I added 30 mm rear spacers to put a little rake back so I wouldn’t sag with load.
Do you have a pic? Your front must be about 1” higher than mine.
Do you have a pic? Your front must be about 1” higher than mine.
