My 5th grade education has me wondering - is it possible for the choke cable, or choke, to have been knocked out of whack to where now it needs to be pulled out slightly (on) to be in "normal" operating position? Please forgive my lack of knowledge, but I am curious if this can happen.
Old Truck for Old Guy
- Thread starter izzyandsue
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- #162
Not sure about 5th grade, booger face, but my 4th grade self just checked and as far as I can tell, it is normal. I had to remove the choke cable yesterday to "clean" the carb, and reset it. Seems to be in the right place.
Not likely. Default choke position on carb is choke full off. A spring on the linkage holds the flapper wide open (choke off). When you pull the knob, the knob and cable attached to the knob overrides (overpowers) the spring on the choke linkage, forcing the flapper to close (choke on). If the cable and knob were completely missing, the carb would be in a choke full-off position.
Ideally the truck should run just fine in warm weather with choke full off. Izzy having to pull the choke means that either carb is getting too much air (vacuum leak) or too little fuel (clogged jet). Pulling choke knob is compensating for one of those conditions by manually adjusting air flow to let the engine have the AFR it needs to stay running.
Could this be a lazy fuel pump too?
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- #165
Okay, got my new chinesium alloy carburetor, shiny and new, installed it. The choke cable is about 1" longer for this one as it looks 1" pulled in the cabin when its "off".
Made all the connections, and cranked it. It works nicely, very steady idle and no problems. Will drive it later today, see if other adjustments are needed. But for now, will run this puppy since it was under $100.
The old one I will try to rebuild as it is an Aisin original. I took it apart again and remove all the jets, blew cleaner and air through and collected more crud. Some of the gaskets are torn too, not like they do anything....
Made all the connections, and cranked it. It works nicely, very steady idle and no problems. Will drive it later today, see if other adjustments are needed. But for now, will run this puppy since it was under $100.
The old one I will try to rebuild as it is an Aisin original. I took it apart again and remove all the jets, blew cleaner and air through and collected more crud. Some of the gaskets are torn too, not like they do anything....
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- #166
The test drive went great, had to modify the throttle linkage plate that was interfering with the janky accelerator pedal mechanism I got, but otherwise it runs great, zero hesitation.
But the windshield washer spray motor died. So they must be related. The 12V power is going to the motor like it is supposed to, but nothing. Tried the motor directly from the battery and...well, she is dead Jim.
But the windshield washer spray motor died. So they must be related. The 12V power is going to the motor like it is supposed to, but nothing. Tried the motor directly from the battery and...well, she is dead Jim.
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- #167
Windshield washer pump…piece of crap lasted only 40 years, the nerve. Anyway, i can’t find any replacements as the pump has the nozzle, not the tank. Most replacement pumps show the nozzle in the tank so….had to rig something temporary until I buy a new tank ($80) and pump.
the tank bottom…
This 1/2” NPT barbed fitting actually threaded into the bottom hole, plastic epoxy added for more uga uga.
Then a 5/8 piece of hose connected to ACI 174348 little pump.
All plugged in and connected made it work just fine. Pretty strong stream from nozzle.
the tank bottom…
This 1/2” NPT barbed fitting actually threaded into the bottom hole, plastic epoxy added for more uga uga.
Then a 5/8 piece of hose connected to ACI 174348 little pump.
All plugged in and connected made it work just fine. Pretty strong stream from nozzle.
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- #168
Now for the valve seals, to hopefully reduce the oil consumption. Was not difficult as long as I followed other's post in the 40 section (Adam did a great post on his 40 here) and the FSM. I removed the airbox, carburetor, and later on the battery. Not necessary, but for the few bolts to undo, it did give a lot of room to work around. After removing the rocker arm, also cleaned the inside of the valve cover and the oil passages of the rocker assembly. The only tools I bought are the spring compressor and the sparkplug hole air hose fitting.
The real first problem was when using the spring compressor, the lengths of the legs wouldn't allow the full compression, and the keepers can not come out. I was using a magnet extension to remove the keepers.
Fiddling about, I tried a few ideas to modify the compressor, when the KISS moment came to me and just added a small screw driver to the long side to even out the spring compression. Now the keepers come out with no problem, also easy to put back in.
The second, and thankfully final problem, is the old seals are different from the new ones. The old ones are sombreros, the new ones are bowler hats. Some time along the years Toyota changed them to the new style and added a spring base. So I did what other suggested, cut off the spring base and insert the new seal. The old seals came out very easily, so likely worn.
To cut off the spring seat, I first used a fine hacksaw blade, bad idea as it then had a lot of post cutting cleaning and deburring. After that one, the rest I used a Dremel with a fine cutting wheel. Used about 6-7 wheels (the come in packs of 30) for all 11 seals and went pretty quickly. Cleaning was simple and the cuts very smooth. Soaked the new seals in oil and then a 15mm socket to GENTLY hammer it in. I did over hammer one and had to run to Hendricks to buy another.
After putting it all back together as per FSM, had to adjust the clearances a bit and ran the engine for a while. All is well and it does sound perfect to me.
What remains to be done is the valve cover gasket and grommets. The ones I ordered do not fit, so another oddity to deal with. Will reach out Cruiser Outfitters and see if they know what is the right size for it.
And hopefully next week is the new clutch!!!! and RMS.
The real first problem was when using the spring compressor, the lengths of the legs wouldn't allow the full compression, and the keepers can not come out. I was using a magnet extension to remove the keepers.
Fiddling about, I tried a few ideas to modify the compressor, when the KISS moment came to me and just added a small screw driver to the long side to even out the spring compression. Now the keepers come out with no problem, also easy to put back in.
The second, and thankfully final problem, is the old seals are different from the new ones. The old ones are sombreros, the new ones are bowler hats. Some time along the years Toyota changed them to the new style and added a spring base. So I did what other suggested, cut off the spring base and insert the new seal. The old seals came out very easily, so likely worn.
To cut off the spring seat, I first used a fine hacksaw blade, bad idea as it then had a lot of post cutting cleaning and deburring. After that one, the rest I used a Dremel with a fine cutting wheel. Used about 6-7 wheels (the come in packs of 30) for all 11 seals and went pretty quickly. Cleaning was simple and the cuts very smooth. Soaked the new seals in oil and then a 15mm socket to GENTLY hammer it in. I did over hammer one and had to run to Hendricks to buy another.
After putting it all back together as per FSM, had to adjust the clearances a bit and ran the engine for a while. All is well and it does sound perfect to me.
What remains to be done is the valve cover gasket and grommets. The ones I ordered do not fit, so another oddity to deal with. Will reach out Cruiser Outfitters and see if they know what is the right size for it.
And hopefully next week is the new clutch!!!! and RMS.
- Thread starter
- #169
Well…. Doing the clutch found out I need a lot more than just the clutch. I need all the parts that touch the clutch, the fork, bearing sleeve, clips, pivot ball. Then, looking at the input shaft, wow! No wonder the fork felt so loose and rattle! The front bearing retainer is broken, the sleeve that covers the shaft had broken off.
How it is supposed to look, its all one piece. Can't find the 40 part, but the 60 one is the same with a longer sleeve, just need to circumcise the tip (according to what I found elsewhere on Mud) Hope to get the parts mid-week, be back on the road by the weekend.
How it is supposed to look, its all one piece. Can't find the 40 part, but the 60 one is the same with a longer sleeve, just need to circumcise the tip (according to what I found elsewhere on Mud) Hope to get the parts mid-week, be back on the road by the weekend.
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- #171
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- #173
Well, it took a while with rushing parts and a few incorrect parts ordered, but I got it back on the road. It shifts buttery soft, very nice and quiet. What a difference to have the right parts mounted correctly! Fixed a lot of little things while it was up and transmission out.
Today got to install the gasket and grommets for the valve cover, and new door locks. Door locks, such a simple thing makes it so much easier going places with passenger.
Today got to install the gasket and grommets for the valve cover, and new door locks. Door locks, such a simple thing makes it so much easier going places with passenger.
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- #174
Adding a center storage compartment took some creative thinking, the space is perfect for a small ammo box but the box is not tall enough. But 2 boxes....cut the bottom of one and add rivets to connect them and it works perfectly. Now I can keep my make up dry in there.
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- #176
No cup holder, but yes to cup holders! They are weighted down with double rubber mats. Worked very well on the road.
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- #178
Locking the rear barn doors has been a pain in the rear, as they can only be locked from the inside and it hurts my back to crawl back there. So I was staring at this handle for a bit today, with the lock part removed. I was looking at maybe getting CCOT aftermarket ambulance door lock and handle when the picture creeped up on me, I have seen these handles before. Its a simple garage door t-handle lock! With a 5/16" shaft!
So looked at the big stores on line and they dont have anything I can pick up today, but Amazon can deliver one by tomorrow. For $13, it is worth the gamble if all I need to do is drill out the rivets of the old and replace with a lockable one.
So looked at the big stores on line and they dont have anything I can pick up today, but Amazon can deliver one by tomorrow. For $13, it is worth the gamble if all I need to do is drill out the rivets of the old and replace with a lockable one.
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- #179
Not being much of an audiophile, I dont need a radio on the truck. So got this bluetooth speaker on the last Amazon sale since the dimensions were pretty good for the radio slot. It fits in nicely, power button still reachable and all controlled by iPhone. No more driving around with bluetooth headset.
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- #180
Sun visors came today!
